Crank stuck on Bottom Bracket
- Thread starter drrry
- Start date
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raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
You could try one of these
Google Ball Joint Splitter, it's used on cars to separate suspension components. It'll probably wreck the bearings though.
Drago
Legendary Member
- Location
- Suburban Poshshire
Or a puller.
Thanks everyone, think I'm indeed going to need a big hammer! I've got a nut splitter from a previous project with my car (didn't end well 
) so might give that a go in combination with a vice or something.
It was a tough call whether to restore the bike to original or convert to fixie but think I'll go with the fixie idea... paint is pretty shocking and don't think there's much chance of restoring it. Will chuck a 'before' pic up in a bit for anyone interested. It's a Saxon Sprint from the 80s
) so might give that a go in combination with a vice or something.It was a tough call whether to restore the bike to original or convert to fixie but think I'll go with the fixie idea... paint is pretty shocking and don't think there's much chance of restoring it. Will chuck a 'before' pic up in a bit for anyone interested. It's a Saxon Sprint from the 80s
raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
Why not go to a square taper BB and a crank like this
Less than £30 for a crank (I'm using one on my 3 speed/optional SS wheeled Raleigh 'Courier' project) and suitably 'period' looking.
Less than £30 for a crank (I'm using one on my 3 speed/optional SS wheeled Raleigh 'Courier' project) and suitably 'period' looking.
Yep, that's what I'm gonna do now- not worth the hassle to try and replace the old bottom bracket with like-for-like... especially as I'd be stuck using those damn cotter pins grr!Why not go to a square taper BB and a crank like this
Less than £30 for a crank (I'm using one on my 3 speed/optional SS wheeled Raleigh 'Courier' project) and suitably 'period' looking.
Just in the process of measuring up my BB to make sure I get a compatible one... didn't realise how cheap BBs were!
Any ideas for cheap wheels? Got 27ers on at the moment but don't mind going for 700c (not planning on putting brakes on, naughty naughty!). Best price I've found is ~£55 for just a rear flip flop on ebay. Am about to hit buy on these at £68 for front and rear: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/351339968904
raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
Not a big fan of fixed wheel (tried a mates out in the 70s 
) but running a bike with no brakes is farking stoopid. It ain't difficult to get calipers that fit a bike changed from 27inch wheels to 700c, they're only a touch smaller. On my Raleigh project I'm going the other way 26inch (imperial not MTB) to 700c which are a touch larger and that just means changing to 'short reach' brakes (Weinmann type 500) which I just happen to have hanging up in the workshop (shed)
EDIT- As you plan on changing from 27 inch to 700c you should be able to use the brakes you have got, the difference is only 8mm in the total size so you should only need to move the pads 4mm or so further down the 'arms' of the brake caliper.
) but running a bike with no brakes is farking stoopid. It ain't difficult to get calipers that fit a bike changed from 27inch wheels to 700c, they're only a touch smaller. On my Raleigh project I'm going the other way 26inch (imperial not MTB) to 700c which are a touch larger and that just means changing to 'short reach' brakes (Weinmann type 500) which I just happen to have hanging up in the workshop (shed)EDIT- As you plan on changing from 27 inch to 700c you should be able to use the brakes you have got, the difference is only 8mm in the total size so you should only need to move the pads 4mm or so further down the 'arms' of the brake caliper.
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Those wheels look good, quite fancy a set myself!
Illaveago
Guru
- Location
- Chippenham,Wiltshire.
Hi, if you know of a friendly garage with a bearing press they may be able to press it out, that is if you wanted to keep the crank.
Sorry for the mega post bump but though it was worth keeping this to one thread.
Also apologies that I've not had much input on the CC community over the past year- I've been a lurker for a long while!!
So the latest is that I never bothered to free the bottom bracket from the crank. I've just applied a couple of layers of primer to the frame and forks ready for sanding and then painting:
Wire coat hangers and a washing line work a treat if you don't have a paint shop handy.
I've got a question to pick all of your clever brains. I know there are several different thread types for Bottom Brackets (Italian, English etc). I've removed my BB already and wondered whether there's a way to tell what thread type I've got? Or is there a rule of thumb that says frames built around x era in y country have z thread type?
It's a Saxon Sprint, made in Britain around the 80s as far as I know.
Thanks you wonderful lot!
Also apologies that I've not had much input on the CC community over the past year- I've been a lurker for a long while!!
So the latest is that I never bothered to free the bottom bracket from the crank. I've just applied a couple of layers of primer to the frame and forks ready for sanding and then painting:
Wire coat hangers and a washing line work a treat if you don't have a paint shop handy.
I've got a question to pick all of your clever brains. I know there are several different thread types for Bottom Brackets (Italian, English etc). I've removed my BB already and wondered whether there's a way to tell what thread type I've got? Or is there a rule of thumb that says frames built around x era in y country have z thread type?
It's a Saxon Sprint, made in Britain around the 80s as far as I know.
Thanks you wonderful lot!
raleighnut
Legendary Member
- Location
- One of the 'Elite'
It could be any of them but it is a fair bet that it's the standard BSA thread.
