Cranks and Bottom bracket

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GAVSTER

Well-Known Member
Location
Fife
Couple of problems - I have a Dawes Galaxy circa 2004.

I also have a crunchy bottom bracket - it creaks and cracks when climbing.

I know it's not pedals or chainrings that is the problem as I've taken them off and the noise remains under load (me standing on cranks)

The cranks say they are hollowtech but I've no idea if the BB is octalink or should be removed with a crank puller or what.

So far with various experimentation i have not been able to remove cranks let alone BB.

So - questions. Firstly has anyone which type of beastie this might be? Secondly could you point to how I should go about removing this and replacing the BB.

Cheers

Gav
 
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GAVSTER

Well-Known Member
Location
Fife
More searching on the interweb leads me to believe it's a Shimano FC-M533-SK which says that the BB is integral to the chainset.

In that case is the BB replaceable or not?
 

bottombracket

New Member
is there an allen key (5 or 6 mm) on the l/h crank - at the frame end?

hollowtech.jpg


If so,

http://www.enduroforkseals.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderfiles/hollowtech2a.pdf

Should give you the idea...
 
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GAVSTER

Well-Known Member
Location
Fife
Gerry - many thanks for the response and you have already exposed me for the idiot I am.

There are no bolts on the non-drive side crank.

It is therefore not a Shimano FC-M533-SK

It deffo says hollowtech on crank. Maybe I should try and post a piccy ?
 

Gerry Attrick

Lincolnshire Mountain Rescue Consultant
OK. Have a look here. See if that helps you identify it.
 

PpPete

Legendary Member
Location
Chandler's Ford
GAVSTER said:
Not that I saw - It said hollowtech on the crank but i will look again.

From the tech docs it looks kinda like

http://techdocs.shimano.com/media/t...FC/EV-FC-M530-2463A_v1_m56577569830608887.pdf

Gav

Pretty sure that's like the original Hollowtech - nothing like the Hollowtech II which hass that allen bolt on LH crank.

It's a splined interface between crank and BB. Shimano also called it Octalink and ISIS is similar from another mfr.

You need a crank puller with the little "button" on it. The button is usually magnetic - you can remove it if you want to do Square taper. Like this.

In my experience Galaxys of that vintage are lot harder to dis-assemble than ones from the 1970s and 1980s. I needed a very long extension bar on the BB tool to get one out not so long ago.

The noises are likely to come from the crank/BB interface - the spline ones are notorious for that, although mine's been OK so far.

On a Galaxy my suggestion would be to replace the whole kit & caboodle with a Stronglight Impact Triple chainset and a Shimano UN54 BB English thread - 118 mm spindle (rather than the Stronglight JP400)
It is going back to an older technology but I've done exactly this on my wife's Galaxy and she's very happy with it.

I put a Tiagra Octalink on mine and TBH the 52-42-30 is too high a gearing for a tourer.
 
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GAVSTER

Well-Known Member
Location
Fife
Mr Porky - thanks for that info.

I will check out your suggestion.

I certainly wouldn't want bigger gears than I already have.

The BB has done only 3000 miles so I'm slightly peeved that it's gone crunchy but i wouldn't want to ignore it and then damage the frame.

Gav
 
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GAVSTER

Well-Known Member
Location
Fife
porkypete said:
Pretty sure that's like the original Hollowtech - nothing like the Hollowtech II which hass that allen bolt on LH crank.

It's a splined interface between crank and BB. Shimano also called it Octalink and ISIS is similar from another mfr.

In my experience Galaxys of that vintage are lot harder to dis-assemble than ones from the 1970s and 1980s. I needed a very long extension bar on the BB tool to get one out not so long ago.

The noises are likely to come from the crank/BB interface - the spline ones are notorious for that, although mine's been OK so far.

On a Galaxy my suggestion would be to replace the whole kit & caboodle with a Stronglight Impact Triple chainset and a Shimano UN54 BB English thread - 118 mm spindle (rather than the Stronglight JP400)
It is going back to an older technology but I've done exactly this on my wife's Galaxy and she's very happy with it.

I put a Tiagra Octalink on mine and TBH the 52-42-30 is too high a gearing for a tourer.

Mr P - just having a look about and I found a Stronglight Impact Triple for just over 30 quid. I also found other folk that have done a similar swap out but appear to have used BB that have used 113 mm and 115mm.

Is there a way of ensuring that i get the right size BB that will work with my front mech?

Also - if I am changing the rings should I also change the change and cassette or is that overkill?
 

PpPete

Legendary Member
Location
Chandler's Ford
My mistake

118mm is the one to use with a Shimano triple not the Stronglight (which is actually a rebadged Sugino)

Stronglight's website clearly says 115mm here.

I wouldn't get the JP400 BB though. A Shimano UN54 in 115mm will last longer and they are not expensive.

Any Shimano front road mech handles that combo quite adequately. What's your existing mech? What size are the existing front rings?

As for changing chain & cassette - get a chain wear checking tool, if your chain is more than 1% stretched it's time to replace both cassette and chain anyway.
 
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GAVSTER

Well-Known Member
Location
Fife
Cheers Pete -

I have a tiagra front mech running 48/36/28 and it's fine.

Right mind made up - stronglight and UN54 115 mm here we come.

I might just buy a new chain and cassette anyway and do the lot.

Gav
 
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