Crud, Mud and stuff

[Peyote]

Well, not going to change from XT mech and XTR shifters to SRAM. LBS suggested changing sleeve and cable regularly, rather than a re-route (which make sense) . So it is currently running as smoothly as very smooth thing.

You could always change your current rear mech for an XT Shadow one, they have routing similar to SRAM mechs so there's no huge loop of cable to catch cr*p in at the back.

 

[User482]

Again, not if you have full length outer. The only place my inner is exposed is where it comes out of the ferrule right near the mech, which is pointing downwards, so mud doesn't tend to run into it.



hmmm... probably only lighter by about a couple of grams or so.
Personally I think full length outer is neater than not, as it's simpler - no intermediate ferrules. But personal preference I suppose.
You could have full length mudlover cables...

I agree - but full length outer is a non-standard mod - I was talking about the cons with the systems as they are designed to be used. There'd be no point to full length mudlovers - defeats the point of the system.

Main problem with full length is you either have to file out the cable stops, or zip tie the outer to the frame.

 

[User482]

You could always change your current rear mech for an XT Shadow one, they have routing similar to SRAM mechs so there's no huge loop of cable to catch cr*p in at the back.

CRC and Wiggle have them for £35. Bargain!

 

[bonj2]

I agree - but full length outer is a non-standard mod - I was talking about the cons with the systems as they are designed to be used. There'd be no point to full length mudlovers - defeats the point of the system.

Main problem with full length is you either have to file out the cable stops, or zip tie the outer to the frame.

LOL on your bike maybe...my mtb had FLO as standard

 

[bonj2]

I agree - but full length outer is a non-standard mod - I was talking about the cons with the systems as they are designed to be used. There'd be no point to full length mudlovers - defeats the point of the system.

Main problem with full length is you either have to file out the cable stops, or zip tie the outer to the frame.

If you had a really narrow round file, the best bet would be to file out just the narrow bit of the cable stop that the ferrule sits against, then they would be exactly like the ones on my bike where the outer fits through. tbh i would probably be looking at doing that if my bike wasn't designed like that.

 

[User482]

LOL on your bike maybe...my mtb had FLO as standard

Come on Bonj - how many bikes are designed for FLO?!

 

[bonj2]

Come on Bonj - how many bikes are designed for FLO?!

well, probably not many- I didn't imply they did, did I?
I'm just saying mine happens to be one that is.

 

[barq]

I believe you can make the modification with a Dremel. But to be honest I wouldn't bother since the Flakjacket is designed for unmodified cable stops. That said I run a full length outer on my winter bike because it has guides rather than stops. From a gear-shifting-in-the-mud point of view both systems work well.

 

[bonj2]

flakjacket?

 

[barq]

The Avid Flakjacket was one of the suggestions at the start of the thread. It's similar to the Mudlover cables you and User482 were discussing.

 

[User482]

The Avid Flakjacket was one of the suggestions at the start of the thread. It's similar to the Mudlover cables you and User482 were discussing.

Of course there's nowt new under the sun - I was using Gore-tex cables 12 years ago!

 

[goosander]

Not sure that full length outers are a good thing.

One of my bikes has FLO and I find gummed up cables to be much more of a problem on it than my other bike which doesn't. I think this is because most of the crud gets in where the cable terminates on the rear mech which isn't sealed.

On the bike with standard cables, you can easily detach the rear cable loop and clean it, whereas on the bike with fully enclosed cables you can't clean them easily so the crud just works its way further up the cable.

Do these mud resistant cables people have mentioned have seals to stop crud getting in at the rear mech?

 

[bonj2]

Not sure that full length outers are a good thing.

One of my bikes has FLO and I find gummed up cables to be much more of a problem on it than my other bike which doesn't. I think this is because most of the crud gets in where the cable terminates on the rear mech which isn't sealed.

On the bike with standard cables, you can easily detach the rear cable loop and clean it, whereas on the bike with fully enclosed cables you can't clean them easily so the crud just works its way further up the cable.

Do these mud resistant cables people have mentioned have seals to stop crud getting in at the rear mech?

Mine's never suffered from mud getting in at the mech end. Not sure whether it's got a special seal. Think it must have.

 

[User482]

Not sure that full length outers are a good thing.

One of my bikes has FLO and I find gummed up cables to be much more of a problem on it than my other bike which doesn't. I think this is because most of the crud gets in where the cable terminates on the rear mech which isn't sealed.

On the bike with standard cables, you can easily detach the rear cable loop and clean it, whereas on the bike with fully enclosed cables you can't clean them easily so the crud just works its way further up the cable.

Do these mud resistant cables people have mentioned have seals to stop crud getting in at the rear mech?

The mudlover cable has a thin plastic sheath that fits snugly over the inner wire and runs through the full length of the outer. It terminates just before the rear mech anchor point so that the cable can travel back & forth to move the mech. There's no sign of any crud getting in.

 

[Kirstie]

Nokian cable outers. All jointed, metallic and weird looking, and extremely expensive. But they work very well.