swee'pea99
Legendary Member
I use a proper chain lube for the chain, but 3-in-1 for most other 'bits' - pivots in gears & brakes, running down cable housings etc.
cycle oil
- Thread starter Banjo
- Start date
Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
trustysteed
Guest
+1 on the white spirit for cleaning chains. Glad I got a power link put in my chain, makes life so much easier. I use reasonable but not expensive lube for that chain as it's on my smart bike but I quite happily use some form of 3-in-one wanky oil for my all weather commuter MTB and it's been going strong for 6 years without any chaincog mishaps. Def a rip-off to buy those tiny bottles of lube for loads of cash!
swee'pea99
Legendary Member
Wrong. A £5 bottle of prolink gold lasts me a year, and it *definitely* makes the bike run better. Best fiver you can spend on your cycling, in my view.trustysteed said:
trustysteed
Guest
As long as you use something and not nothing, you'll be fine!
Graham O
New Member
- Location
- Brynford, North Wales
I've used a variety of lubricants from "3 in 1" to wax type, but where to apply them? I appreciate that the thinner ones can get inside the chain and onto the pins, but do the thicker ones? The wax one I used, left a greenish residue on the chain. Where should I apply this? Just to the rollers or to the side plates as well? Any advice would be much appreciated.
I did once try some solid motorbike chain lube. Heat up the tin and dunk the chain in. It used to work great on the motorbike, but having tried it in the winter, with low temperatures, it was like cycling in treacle. Not recommended.
I did once try some solid motorbike chain lube. Heat up the tin and dunk the chain in. It used to work great on the motorbike, but having tried it in the winter, with low temperatures, it was like cycling in treacle. Not recommended.
lukesdad said:
I think some posters on here have a mania for cleanin and lubing their chains and cassettes.
None of its going to make you go faster
Bit of 3 in 1 or whatever squirted on when it looks a bit dry, works its way by itself into pins and plates. No need to take yer chain off for a soak in degreaser.
John the Monkey
Frivolous Cyclist
- Location
- Crewe
lukesdad said:
Finish Line Pro Road costs £7 or so.
Still on the same bottle I bought sometime last year.
Weldtite bike oil costs a couple of quid at most, loads left in that bottle.
The cost of decent lubricants is trivial compared to what gets spent on tyres, brake blocks, chains and other consumables (imo).
John the Monkey
Frivolous Cyclist
- Location
- Crewe
Cassettes and chainrings can be bloody expensive.SimonC said:I think some posters on here have a mania for cleanin and lubing their chains and cassettes.
It's not difficult or expensive to try and make them last a bit longer.
swee'pea99
Legendary Member
One thing I underestimated before reading posts on here is the difference between the kind of basic 7 speed setup I ride and today's 9/10 speeds, with their thinner construction and finer tolerances. I'm with John the Monkey. I use Prolink Gold, putting some on maybe once a month, more if there's been rain, instantly if I see any spots of rust on the chain. A £5 bottle lasts a year, easy, and my chains, chainsets and freewheels last forever. Apart from that, an occasional drip of 3-in-1 here and there, and bob's yer uncle. (A small bottle of 3-in-1 lasts a decade, give or take.)
John the Monkey said:
Thats true, but does degreasing all the lube out of the chain, and then putting it back on again make them last longer. What about the time it takes for the lube to get back between the plates, pins etc. What's the wear like then?
John the Monkey
Frivolous Cyclist
- Location
- Crewe
SimonC said:
Can't comment, I'm a true believer in the Mickle method™.
Mr Pig
New Member
- Location
- North Lanarkshire
swee said:
