Dawes Shadow Bicycle Rear wheel cone adjustment

[rockford]

I have recently inherited an old Dawes Shadow drop handle bar bicycle.
The back wheel(27X1 1/4) is loose and I think the cones need adjusted.
Is it possible to do this without removing the wheel? I have read that the in some cases the free wheel must be removed to adjust the cones!. One cycle dealer told me that if the wheel was 27 inch the looseness of the wheel was probably an indication of worn bearings,bent forks or bent axle and that it wouldn't be worth spending money on it as the parts are not available!!.
I have another bike ,a Giant , which is in good condition and was only going to use the Dawes as a spare for my son. Is it worth spending any money at all on the Dawes??
Any assistance would be welcome

Regards
Rockford

 

[HJ]

I used to ride a Dawes Shadow, until the head tube snapped. If the frame is in good condition then just get a new rear hub, but if you want to have a go, then see Sheldon Brown for more info...

 

[Bigtwin]

I had one of those at Uni!

Have to take wheel off, and use cone spanners (cheap). No bearings in there, just get a packet of new balls for about £1 and slam them in. Highly unlikely the cones themselves are that badly worn, and even if they are, it will be a lot better.

Decent LBS will have a new spindle and cones for not a lot anyway.

 

[Ivan Ardon]

The LBS may be right, but it's far more likely to just need the cones tightened up.

It'll be worth taking the axle out to see it it is bent, and what condition the bearings and races are in. New grease and tightening the cones properly will probably see it back on the road for many more years.

 

[jimboalee]

A LBS who tell you parts are not available for a 'screw on' type hub should never be visited again.

They want you to buy 700C wheels off them.


Cones can be adjusted with the wheel in. You have to have built up the axle yourself to make sure the driveside cone and locknut are 'rock solid' and the non-drive side is able to be untighted and tightened independantly.

Ball bearings are somewhat more lasting than the cone itself. The cone is easier than the cup to replace, so becomes the 'sacrificial' bit of the system. Its case hardening is microns thin while the ball bearing is multiples thicker.

Best advice I can give is to strip the whole thing down, inspect the cone running track and replace if there is any sign of Brinneling.

Cones come at about a tenner an axle, which is less expensive than a new pair of wheels.