Daytime cycling lights, which can you recommend for me ?

[dicko]

I am looking to replace my old small CatEye front and rear flashing daytime lights with something a bit more modern and brighter. If they could also be rechargeable that would be a plus. I noticed the other day a fellow cyclist half a mile approaching me with an extremely good front running light which certainly catches the eye it was quite hypnotic but he was in a hurry but waved as we passed. Have you any recommendations please?

 

[ebikeerwidnes]

Personally I just use 2 or 3 cheap rechargeable ones

They are not all that bright but if I think I need them then I reckon volume helps as much as brightness

also - have 2 or 3 front and back means that if one runs out of charge and I don;t notice (especially the rear ones) then the others are still doing their job

 

[wiggydiggy]

I like my Lezyne front, but the strap that swivels so you can more easily attach it has eventually worn the thread out and broke so it's attached with cable ties now. I'd look closely at the strap before buying another.

For rear I use a Moon, it's a little fiddly to attach but it works well.

Both are USB chargeable.

Ps I also have a fixed front and rear, powered by the bike battery

 

[Oldhippy]

Just have a hub dynamo. No battery or recharge needed.

 

[ebikeerwidnes]

I would like one that attaches to the bike battery
but as it is a Bosch system that is not as easy as it should be

There are the genuine Bosch ones - but that means paying genuine Bosch prices

 

[Oldhippy]

In my experience you get what you pay for.

 

[Drago]

Nothing too bright.

 

[ebikeerwidnes]

Nothing too bright.

Which bring sup to topic of how bright is too bright (in numbers" and what measurement is used

Is it lumens??

I did look around quite a while ago and found similar ones but they used different way of measuring it

Also - if it is X lumens - but is a tight beam - is that measured differently to the same raw power spread in a wide beam

 

[Drago]

Which bring sup to topic of how bright is too bright (in numbers" and what measurement is used

I don't know about in numbers, but definitely not too bright.

The human brain determines the speed of an oncoming object by the rate at which it grows in relation to its background. Too bright a light breaks up the objects outline and deprives the observers brain of the necessary datum required to make an accurate speed calculation.

Suzuki discovered this phenomen in the 1980s when trying to determine why daytime headlamp use in Japan (as opposed to dim-dip) was associated with a rise in T bone type collisions. Honda, who own the world's largest searchlight manufafturer and thus could call upon world class expertise in optics, confirmed the mechanism behind it.

Amd not daytime headlamps. Indeed, DRLs have not been linked to any reduction in collision rates outside of the North European sub-Arctic climate.

You can see this phenomenon in action as you ride about. You will see oncoming cars with over bright DRLs and will experience first hand how it breaks up the outline of the vehicle.

So while I couldn't give you a number, you dont want anything too bright. Conspicuity on its own does not equate to safety.

A low output light is not helpful on its own. Two or three, spaded as far apart as possible, is the ideal as the observers brain can see the rate at which the distance between the lights changes as the vehicle approaches or recedes.

My advice - do not not do anything in the name of safety that does not have a reasonably proven benefit. Safety is often counter-intutive and, as per the example above, things that might seem like common sense safety changes could actually end up killing you.

 

[wiggydiggy]

You can see this phenomenon in action as you ride about. You will see oncoming cars with over bright DRLs and will experience first hand how it breaks up the outline of the vehicle.

I'm not sure any bicycle light can compete with the light presumably sourced from a supernova that some people have coming out of the front of their vehicles!

You do have a point though, on a unlit greenway I use after being blinded once to often by some inconsiderate jerk I invested in much brighter lights. They don't get run on full except for when I encounter these jerks who then get the pleasure of full beam from me. Rest of the time its angled down and on low.

 

[ebikeerwidnes]

Problem with a lot of those over bright lights is that, as well as other points already made, is that they are often on big SUVs

and hence further off the ground that a normal car

but they are set at the same angle of dip and hence strike the road much further from the car
and - being over bright - they dazzle even if dipped

 

[the_mikey]

I use those cheap chinese Lezyne Zecto Drive knock offs, they're cheap, cheerful but work adequately for daytime illumination.

 

[PaulSB]

I don't know about in numbers, but definitely not too bright.

The human brain determines the speed of an oncoming object by the rate at which it grows in relation to its background. Too bright a light breaks up the objects outline and deprives the observers brain of the necessary datum required to make an accurate speed calculation.

Suzuki discovered this phenomen in the 1980s when trying to determine why daytime headlamp use in Japan (as opposed to dim-dip) was associated with a rise in T bone type collisions. Honda, who own the world's largest searchlight manufafturer and thus could call upon world class expertise in optics, confirmed the mechanism behind it.

Amd not daytime headlamps. Indeed, DRLs have not been linked to any reduction in collision rates outside of the North European sub-Arctic climate.

You can see this phenomenon in action as you ride about. You will see oncoming cars with over bright DRLs and will experience first hand how it breaks up the outline of the vehicle.

So while I couldn't give you a number, you dont want anything too bright. Conspicuity on its own does not equate to safety.

A low output light is not helpful on its own. Two or three, spaded as far apart as possible, is the ideal as the observers brain can see the rate at which the distance between the lights changes as the vehicle approaches or recedes.

My advice - do not not do anything in the name of safety that does not have a reasonably proven benefit. Safety is often counter-intutive and, as per the example above, things that might seem like common sense safety changes could actually end up killing you.

I'm sure you're correct. I think a significant contributor to the issue is incorrect mounting of any light. The number of cyclists I see with huge incorrectly mounted high intensity front lights is amazing. These have no effect other than to annoy other road users. Yes, the user is visible but the brain can't easily decide what type of "vehicle" is approaching or how fast it's travelling.

Annoying other road users is a danger in itself to the user. On ocassions I find myself thinking about the idiot coming towards me and not about any action I might need to take. That creates a distraction and danger for the user.

This also applies to cars. While I know it's highly irrational I find myself very irritated by modern car lighting. Frequently too bright, set too high so dazzling other road users, indicators are often impossible to see, stupidly shaped to look like a cat or on minis a union jack. Utterly ridiculous and I'm genuinely surprised many modern car lights are legal. If I ever need to buy a new car the lights and indicators will be a deciding factor.

A guy who used to regularly join one of the groups I ride with carried every imaginable bit of tech on his bike, including headphones and microphone to take and make calls on the move!!! A part of his collection was a front light so bright that when shoulder checking it was impossible to tell if the light was his or that of a car approaching from behind. Thus putting his fellow riders at risk.

 

[PaulSB]

@dicko back to your question. I can highly recommend the Exposure Trace (front) and TraceR (rear) lights. These are very compact, easily mounted, excellent run time, rechargeable lights with three just modes making their operation very simple. A set will cost you +/-£100.
Both lights have a highly visible daytime mode which crucially, see @Drago comments, doesn't break up the cyclist outline. Add to this the nighttime mode will illuminate the road very well.

Exposure Lights Trace Mk3 Daybright – Exposure Lights https://share.google/P8pRwi99xhUzBhJqG

It's worth knowing that Raceware offer a number of additional mounts.

Raceware Direct – Custom Cycle Components – RaceWare Direct supply custom made 3D printed cycle products manufactured in the UK https://share.google/IyeqVnhnuUAfXn98q

Restrap offer a very good, excellent value mount.

Light Mount – Restrap https://share.google/5d9i1TnFw8FWssczW

I've used all three for 3 - 4 years and have no criticism of the products.

 

[dicko]

@dicko back to your question. I can highly recommend the Exposure Trace (front) and TraceR (rear) lights. These are very compact, easily mounted, excellent run time, rechargeable lights with three just modes making their operation very simple. A set will cost you +/-£100.
Both lights have a highly visible daytime mode which crucially, see @Drago comments, doesn't break up the cyclist outline. Add to this the nighttime mode will illuminate the road very well.

Exposure Lights Trace Mk3 Daybright – Exposure Lights https://share.google/P8pRwi99xhUzBhJqG

It's worth knowing that Raceware offer a number of additional mounts.

Raceware Direct – Custom Cycle Components – RaceWare Direct supply custom made 3D printed cycle products manufactured in the UK https://share.google/IyeqVnhnuUAfXn98q

Restrap offer a very good, excellent value mount.

Light Mount – Restrap https://share.google/5d9i1TnFw8FWssczW

I've used all three for 3 - 4 years and have no criticism of the products.

Thank you for this information I would never have discovered Exposure Lights if it hadn’t been for your post. Yes, they are expensive but I value my health more. Your recommendation for the Exposure Trace and the Trace R ticks all the boxes, thank you Paul SB.