difference between race and endurance bikes.

[Salty seadog]

I am in the market for a drop bar bike mainly to achieve a more areodynamic position for easier cycling. As I understand it the main difference between a standard road/race geometry and that of an endurance bike are that the endurance geometry puts you in a more upright position. My flatbar hybrid a Whyte montpellier has a fairly long top tube which reduces my profile against air resistance. With the purchase of a drop bar bike I hope to reduce this further for those days when the breeze is against me.

Is there a noticable difference between a standard road bike and an endurance bike in that regard?
I dont normaly spend more than about 4-5 hours in the saddle and have no mobility or fitness issues.
Would I be ok with more agressive geometry for this time or would something a little more "comfortable" be in order for these rides.
I am not concerned with out and out speed and both would no doubt satisfy me in that regard.

I guess part of my rambling question is looking for advice on the trade off between easier riding against comfort.

All comments as always welcome.

I am also looking as a possibility at the Specialized Roubaix or Cannondale synapse in the endurance bracket but have not looked at the racier geometries yet.
I know @ianrauk you have the Roubaix and various others so of the top of my head you are one whose advice I would be interested in if you could spare me the time.

Many thanks all,

ssd....

 

[Apollonius]

Now that is an interesting question.

As a case in point, Bianchi sell their Infinito CV as more of an endurance bike, but Sep Vanmarke just rode one to third place in the Tour of Flanders. Of course, his was more slammed than the stock bike, and would not have had the gentler gearing, but he chose that over the Oltre for that race.

Another point to consider, is that assumptions about comfort are not always valid for all. Commonsense, for example, says that a big soft saddle is more comfortable than a tiny hard one. This is often not the case after a few miles.
As you have noticed, being "up in the wind" in a more upright position can be a strain. Getting low enough to keep comfortable AND out of the wind is a balancing act. Especially as sitting up puts more pressure on the bottom anyway. As with so many things in cycling, it is a compromise and what is "endurance" to you might be less endurable for another.
I think the only way you can find out what suits you is to try some bikes. Keep an open mind and also think about adjusting the bike after you have it. Riding position can be altered quite easily in most cases.

 

[winjim]

As a case in point, Bianchi sell their Infinito CV as more of an endurance bike, but Sep Vanmarke just rode one to third place in the Tour of Flanders. Of course, his was more slammed than the stock bike, and would not have had the gentler gearing, but he chose that over the Oltre for that race.

It took him six hours to ride 260km. I'd call that endurance.

 

[ianrauk]

The Spesh Roubaix I have has a huge head tube compared to the more aggressive angles of my Van Nich. This means the ride is more upright compared but not a huge amount as I have more spacers under the stem of the VN. However, It's not so much upright that it would hamper your riding speed as at the end of the day, you can slam the stem and get in the drops and of course, your own engine. More marginal gains rather then out and out advantages. It really is what you feel comfortable riding for the amount of time you do ride.

 

[Crackle]

Bigger head tube for more upright riding, slightly more relaxed angles, frame material choice, clearance for larger tyres and mudguards, slightly longer wheelbase for stability and comfort, more traditionally spoked wheels...some or all of those things help define an endurance bike but often the lines blur now. Once it was racer, fast tourer, tourer.

 

[Kevoffthetee]

I have a giant defy and have flipped the stem for a more upright position, and I can ride just as fast as some of the fast lads on their carbon racers, plus it's easy for me to get onto the drops if needed. If you want a race geometry go for a slammed TT setup but for everything else it's all about comfort over the miles.

Why make things harder than they need to be

 

[Racing roadkill]

Try to get a ride on the bikes you think you might like, get the one that feels best for you.

 

[Roadrider48]

I have 7 bikes made up of 5 different makes and the Roubaix SL4 is the most comfy for distance/endurance riding by far. Just my opinion though.
But the Roubaix is an extremely comfortable bike to ride.
Hope this helps.

 

[Salty seadog]

Yes, I'm going to give evans a shout and get a ride on at least the two I mentioned maybe more. Trouble is having not ridden drops for years my body won't really know what's comfy at first and a test ride won't be got to too long. Still I'm confident that they'll both be fine. looking at discs and at least 105, ultegra if the money or finance deal is right. Not really familiar with wheel sets and their various qualities yet but I imagine that would be a future upgrade. Both the Roubaix and Synapse seem to run a bb30 bb which I hear are not the best. Is there scope for a suitable upgrade when the time comes to maybe a shimano?

 

[Kajjal]

Riding in the drops makes more of a difference the faster you go. You would notice a significant difference compared to a hybrid unless going fairly slow.

For longer distances drop bars work well as they give you alot of hand positions to use.

The key thing on a road bike is getting it setup well to suit your riding. Most people don't want too much reach or drop and have a fairly upright position.

For disc brakes hydraulic brakes work the best with much more power and also control. Wider tyres will also take the sting out of bumpier roads. 25mm is the minimum you would want.

 

[Salty seadog]

For disc brakes hydraulic brakes work the best with much more power and also control. Wider tyres will also take the sting out of bumpier roads. 25mm is the minimum you would want.

Yes hydros all day long, i,m pretty sold on the Roubaix SL4 105 or ultegra.


[QUOTE 4225112, member: 76"]I have drops, but the handlebar tape gets grubby on the top bit, never on the drops. I could be riding a flat bar bike for all the use the drops get.[/QUOTE]

I reckon id spend most of my time on the hoods tbh.

 

[Salty seadog]

@Roadrider48 @ianrauk Out of interest guys have you stuck to the original 11-32 cassette?

also are the brifter levers easily operable from the hoods and the drops? is there any way of adjusting reach on them?

105 or ultegra, looks like quite a bit of extra cash to go ultegra?

 

[vickster]

Apparently the hydro shimano hoods are rather chunky. Would rule them out for me, I can't even get on with 'normal' ones. As a bloke, I guess your hands will be bigger however. You might be able to adjust the position of the brifters on the bars, an LBS should help you with this

 

[ianrauk]

@Roadrider48 @ianrauk Out of interest guys have you stuck to the original 11-32 cassette?

also are the brifter levers easily operable from the hoods and the drops? is there any way of adjusting reach on them?

105 or ultegra, looks like quite a bit of extra cash to go ultegra?

I never had a 32 cassette, I have always had 28's. That and a compact chainset is enough to get up the hardest of hills.

Always found brifters easy to use even though I have small hands. Easily reachable from the drops and hoods. They do come with small shims where you can adjust the reach.

In regards to 105 and Ultegra.
I run 105 on my commute bike and Ultegra on my leisure bikes. 105 is the workhorse of the Shimano groupset world. Keenly priced for when you have to renew components. Very reliable.. Ultegra is just that little bit nicer (imo) in both looks and in use. The gear changes are just that little bit crisper (if that makes sense). If you want a little nicer bling and am happy at the expense, then I would say go for Ultegra, other wise 105 is absolutely fine.

 

[Oldfentiger]

Annie's Liv Brava SLR, recently purchased, is equipped with 105 5800. The lever reach is adjustable via a small screw under the hood.
The salesman told us that this facility is new for this year.