Difficult to break a bead!

[stoatsngroats]

i May have weak hands, n ever been a problem until today! We had a puncture on the ebike rear today, and no matter what I tried, I couldn’t break the bead to get at the tube!
This is on an Alex Rims EX21 and a Schwalbe Rapid Rob tyre. The rim is tubeless ready, and appears to have a bead recess which for me was so difficult (impossible - I couldn’t do it!) to shift across into the centre recess. No way to get a tyre lever in the gap either.
This resulted an a 2 mile walk, and then a single ride for me (whilst the OH waited in a cafe) for another mile to a bike shop.
Once there, the chap broke the bead with his thumbs! I still couldn’t shift the rest of the bead though.
So I’m looking at how I might be able to sort this for our ride tomorrow.
Any ideas?
I’m looking at changing the tyres away from schwalbe, but I’m not sure if the wheel is the problem.
Thanks SnG

 

[Levo-Lon]

Put the wheel on the floor on a bit of anything ,your coat glove etc so you dont scratch it.

Then use the edge of your shoe to press the tyre off the bead.
Dont touch the rim,just the tyre as close as possible to the rim.

Some are tight.

Bit like a car tyre needs the tyre bead breaker.

 

[stoatsngroats]

Thanks Meta Ion, this seems to be the way, and I didn’t think of this on the trail. I’ll have a go when I get the time, and see if I can do it

 

[Drago]

I has this once, a Kenda tyre on a Mavic MTB rim. Nothing, bit nothing would shift it. Ended up dremmeling the tyre off, which isn't really a viable trail side endeavour.

 

[I like Skol]

I have strong thumbs but had the same problem with the OEM wheels/tyres on my GT Grade. Had to sharpen up some plastic tyres levers so I could force them into the gap between tyre and rim. I knew i probably wouldn't stand a chance if i ever needed to do this when cold tired and wet so eventually changed the tyres to something easier to get off the tubeless ready rims.

 

[iluvmybike]

Tubeless ready rims can be very tight to get tyres off/on. I find using 3 tyre levers close together usually gets u started. Why not go tubeless hen you won't have any punctures?

 

[Pale Rider]

In the house I use the end of a wooden hammer handle to bear down on the tyre wall.

On the trail I carry a short length of hammer handle which I reckon would do the same job, although I've not had to test it.

The wheel needs to be on its side on a hard surface, any give in the ground will absorb the pressure you need to apply.

All this was learned the hard way on a forum ride when, for a little while, I thought I might be at risk of being stranded somewhere in Yorkshire.

Bead breaking problems is one of the reasons I went tubeless.

 

[SkipdiverJohn]

I’m looking at changing the tyres away from Schwalbe

I wouldn't, because in all likelihood, you'll get a lot more p*nctures on non-Schwalbe tyres than you will with Schwalbes fitted. I'd sooner have one awkward repair once in a blue moon than be doing regular roadside repairs miles from home on unprotected tyres. P*nctures make cycling an unreliable means of transport in respect of how long it will take you to get from A to B. For journeys longer than a couple of miles from base, my absolute #1 priority is p*ncture prevention, so my "good" bikes run Schwalbes, inflated plenty hard enough to avoid the risk of pinch flats. On my rough old hack bike, which is only ever used close to home, I run bog standard knobbly MTB tyres that have come off various ratty bikes. I've got a selection of them, and they will get used up for local riding where getting a p*ncture isn't a big deal.

 

[Ajax Bay]

you'll get a lot more p*nctures on non-Schwalbe tyres than you will with Schwalbes fitted. I'd sooner have one awkward repair once in a blue moon than be doing regular roadside repairs miles from home on unprotected tyres. P*nctures make cycling an unreliable means of transport in respect of how long it will take you to get from A to B. For journeys longer than a couple of miles from base, my absolute #1 priority is p*ncture prevention

1) you'll get a lot more p*nctures on non-Schwalbe tyres than you will with Schwalbes fitted
Care to share what you base that on? Some Schwalbes have poorer protection than others (Schwalbes and non-Schwalbes), I suggest.
2) I'd sooner have one awkward repair once in a blue moon than be doing regular roadside repairs miles from home on unprotected tyres.
Decent tyres with reasonable 'puncture protection (tread and side) scores' which are not worn down and are kept at a sensible pressure will minimise the risk of "regular roadside repairs" yet not be a swine to remove for a puncture which does occur. High puncture resistance is not synonymous with difficulty of removel from/remounting on rim. I'd sooner have a straight forward repair once in a blue moon. The other place has a useful thread on tyre/rim tightness/ease of mounting
3) P*nctures make cycling an unreliable means of transport in respect of how long it will take you to get from A to B
No - once you get a puncture the time it's going to take you to get to B will depend on your expertise and expedition in puncture repair. An extra 10 minutes max with a sensible tyre/rim combo. It's the risk of puncture that affects the 'reliability of cycling as a mode of transport'. You could say exactly the same about driving a car. With a reasonable choice of tyre the risk of puncturing is rather small and thoroughly worthwhile for the 1000s of miles a rider will likely enjoy trouble free.
4) For journeys longer than a couple of miles from base, my absolute #1 priority is p*ncture prevention.
That might be your key requirement but my choice of tyre is based on (to the varying extent that I can quantify these various factors): rolling resistance, puncture protection, ride quality, robustness (versus 'nicks') and endurance, width and weight. For example, though an M+ did me well as a replacement tyre halfway through an end-to-end, it came off (to be replaced by a GP4S) on return home as the extra half kilo difference of a 28-622 M+ was not worth it (especially since it was a b**stard to get on in the first place (at 160k of a 180k Day 4)).

 

[stoatsngroats]

Thanks all for your thoughts.
I’m not ready to go tubeless, as I’m not sure about the perceived benefit, I’m rather old fashioned .
I will try the stand on the tyre to see if this is possible to achieve whilst out on a ride, and I’m a little peeved that I didn’t think of this yesterday. After 20 minutes, I was a little pee’d off!
I’m not certain the tubeless ready rims are for me, and I’m sure that a change in this area will be my best option, but I’m still trying to understand how I can improve my repair technique.
Having had many flats over the years, on mtb, road & tandem, it has only ever been a 5 minute job, but yesterday caused us extra walked mileage, and the time passed, making the return journey less fun, and we didn’t reach our planned destination.
All of this doesn’t really matter in the great scheme of cycling pleasure, but I’m beginning to consider that something needs to change so that we can potter off to Paris when the time is right. This event yesterday makes the thought of a run out a little more fraught.
I just want to be back on the bike, without worrying about the albeit (hopefully) infrequent flat.
My 29er may be the same, as these are tubeless ready too, so I have four wheels to consider.

 

[screenman]

I would not let fashion get in the way of fewer if any punctures, I am likely older than you and embrace new technology. The wheel on it's side and pushing down with your foot or a blunt object works fine, getting in close to the rim is the secret.

 

[Pale Rider]

The beads on my tyres became easier to break after the tyre had been on and off a few times, which regrettably the front was due to a series of punctures.

You could grease a known section of the bead, the tyre is that tight it will never slip, but provided you remember where the greased section is that section of the bead should release more easily.

I had some success doing that before going tubeless, which has been good - so far.

Less rolling resistance, more comfort from the tyre due to lower pressure, and the reasonable expectation the tyre will self-seal most punctures.

Not sure if that last bit has happened yet because a flint puncture could seal without me realising it.