Dipping a toe

[mythste]

I love road riding, it has my heart and I like nothing more than looking at how many miles I've clocked up after a week of commuting and a Sunday morning dash.

However, it's a grind sometimes, and circumstances (Lady Mythste having to work weekends for the foreseeable future) mean i'm going to have 5-6 hours to kill weekend afternoons.

So I have 2 questions, I want to look at a second hand mountain bike to cut my teeth on. Hopefully not literally. I have £3-400 to spend and have no issues going second hand. What's important and what isn't? I have no issues buying something with a good old frame and upgrading components as and when I decide I'm into it. I think I want a hardtail.

Secondly, I don't drive. what are the chances of me actually getting some decent off-road riding in via train in the northwest? I don't mind getting on a train for an hour, putting a few hours in somewhere, and getting the train home again at the end.

Any and all advice appreciated!

Thanks!

Stephen

 

[HarryTheDog]

Bit hard to say what is important to you, a experienced MTBer may immediately state things like
It has to be a 26 inch wheel size or 27.5 or 29 inch
Then ok I want 100mm of fork travel or 120 mm or 130mm, then the forks must be Fox or Rock shox etc.
Then gearing must be 1x11 or 2 x 10 or 3 x 9 etc and a minimum standard of slx etc. ( my preference would be 2 x 11)
Brakes must be hydraulic discs, not mechanical and not V-type etc.

When it comes to secondhand I have set things I want in my head then had a look around and gone for what I thought was a good deal.
I usually see if the bike I am looking at has a review on bikeradar or another site to see what others think.

There are a lot of views on wheel size, 26 inch more manouverable , but does not soak up the bumps so well, 29 inch less maouverable but faster on the ascents and flats. 27.5 in the middle etc.

depending on how rough you are going 100mm of fork travel is enough for most. Fork make some people will only use Fox or Rock Shox. I have Manitou as they were the lightest at the time, I am a very un-sensitive MTB rider and can hardly tell the difference between a 500 quid set of forks and a 100 quid set. If you are not going over that technical terrain you could get away with any old fork, though for me it Must have lockout, ie turn suspension off.
I am sure people will have other views on what is important.

 

[mythste]

Bit hard to say what is important to you, a experienced MTBer may immediately state things like
It has to be a 26 inch wheel size or 27.5 or 29 inch
Then ok I want 100mm of fork travel or 120 mm or 130mm, then the forks must be Fox or Rock shox etc.
Then gearing must be 1x11 or 2 x 10 or 3 x 9 etc and a minimum standard of slx etc. ( my preference would be 2 x 11)
Brakes must be hydraulic discs, not mechanical and not V-type etc.

When it comes to secondhand I have set things I want in my head then had a look around and gone for what I thought was a good deal.
I usually see if the bike I am looking at has a review on bikeradar or another site to see what others think.

There are a lot of views on wheel size, 26 inch more manouverable , but does not soak up the bumps so well, 29 inch less maouverable but faster on the ascents and flats. 27.5 in the middle etc.

depending on how rough you are going 100mm of fork travel is enough for most. Fork make some people will only use Fox or Rock Shox. I have Manitou as they were the lightest at the time, I am a very un-sensitive MTB rider and can hardly tell the difference between a 500 quid set of forks and a 100 quid set. If you are not going over that technical terrain you could get away with any old fork, though for me it Must have lockout, ie turn suspension off.
I am sure people will have other views on what is important.

Thats surprisingly useful - thanks!

I'm not going to be fussing over "minor" issues like fork travel and what not. I suppose I'm more interested in if anyone has any major do's or don'ts. What sort of groupset can I expect for that price etc.

 

[Levo-Lon]

Good reviews and a good starter bike..13.7kg which is ok for 350 quid bike
6061 frame truvative crankset and rockshox xc28 budget fork, shimano disc brakes and ok tyres..3x9 gears which is great for steep stuff and flat out speed..plus deore mech which is good for such a budget bike
abuse it and if you like mtb ..buy a quality bike next year..

the mbuk review says it all..brilliant

http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/calibre-two-two-alloy-hardtail-mountain-bike-p275612

 

[HarryTheDog]

@mythste MTB finshing kit tends to a mish mash of lots of manufacturers and not many stick to a complete groupset. The first thing I would decide on is what type of gears do you want. I used to race Xc and the racing snakes tended to argue about having either 2 x10 or 1 x 10 ( 1 x 10 ie not to want a front derailluer) in my day, what would be 1x 11 or 2 x11 nowadays.
I am an oldie so want as big of a spread of gears as possible ie 2 x11. My current bike which is over 6rs old is a 3x9 which is one to many gear combinations up front for me to think about and usually cocks itself up with a missed gear change somewhere along the ride.

 

[mythste]

Good reviews and a good starter bike..13.7kg which is ok for 350 quid bike
6061 frame truvative crankset and rockshox xc28 budget fork, shimano disc brakes and ok tyres..3x9 gears which is great for steep stuff and flat out speed..plus deore mech which is good for such a budget bike
abuse it and if you like mtb ..buy a quality bike next year..

http://www.gooutdoors.co.uk/calibre-two-two-alloy-hardtail-mountain-bike-p275612

I think I'd rather go second hand for two main reasons;

1. bit more for my money. I'm pretty handy with a spanner so dont mind doing maintenence
2. If I find out for whatever reason it's really not for me or its too difficult to find fun places to ride I won't have lost too much in resale

Thanks though!

 

[mythste]

@mythste MTB finshing kit tends to a mish mash of lots of manufacturers and not many stick to a complete groupset. The first thing I would decide on is what type of gears do you want. I used to race Xc and the racing snakes tended to argue about having either 2 x10 or 1 x 10 ( 1 x 10 ie not to want a front derailluer) in my day, what would be 1x 11 or 2 x11 nowadays.
I am an oldie so want as big of a spread of gears as possible ie 2 x11. My current bike which is over 6rs old is a 3x9 which is one to many gear combinations up front for me to think about and usually cocks itself up with a missed gear change somewhere along the ride.

Good point, I certainly couldnt be dealing with a triple. I like a good climb so I suppose 2x would be a good starting point. Starting to build a picture in my head!

 

[mythste]

depending on how rough you are going 100mm of fork travel is enough for most. Fork make some people will only use Fox or Rock Shox. I have Manitou as they were the lightest at the time, I am a very un-sensitive MTB rider and can hardly tell the difference between a 500 quid set of forks and a 100 quid set. If you are not going over that technical terrain you could get away with any old fork, though for me it Must have lockout, ie turn suspension off.
I am sure people will have other views on what is important.

RE forks, A lot of the bikes im looking at that come in under budget have Rockshox, I guess I'm safe in those?

Do I remember people saying avoid suntour like the plague? Have I made that up?

 

[HarryTheDog]

The thing with secondhand MTB bikes the thing that is most likely to need service/repair is the forks, so be aware of that and ask when they were last serviced.Most manufacturers recommend they are serviced every year, some people dont bother as it costs. My secondhand Scott scale despite supoosedly having just been serviced ( shop demo bike) originally came with rockshox rebas ( I think they were Reba) within months they were leaking air. I put them in for service and apparently the internals were so scratched they leaked and were virtually un-repairable. But Rockshox, Fox or Marzochi seem to be the most common decent forks. I have Manitous which aren't that common but are decent, mine are super light RCD's, usually reviewers complain they flex but I am small and have not been a problem for me.
Yes Suntour seem to be be on a lot of budget bikes and "serious" MTBers look down their noses at them. Depends if you are going off massive drop-offs, taking air at every opportunity and bombing it through rock gardens.

 

[bikeman66]

I'll bet there are quite a few second hand MTB's for sale near you. Personally, wouldn't go full suspension, as bearings and bushes may be an issue! A full set of these can really add up. I find my hard tail gets me everywhere I want to go without the weight and maintenance issues a full sus brings.

Would definitely lean towards hydraulic discs, as they can't be beaten in the mud and grime. Virtually maintenance free, and ample braking power on tap.

Most quality frames have anyway, but make sure it has a replaceable derailleur hanger. I've never broken mine, but have ridden with a couple of guys who have!!

If you have a mate who knows a bit about mountain bikes it is a sound idea to have him with you if you're looking second hand. All the basics of buying a used road bike apply. Make sure the bottom bracket feels OK by grabbing the cranks and wobbling them side to side. Any play, look deeper. Make sure the bars turn freely, but with no free play or grinding in the headset. If the bike has hydraulic discs, look for possible tell-tale signs of fluid leakage around the calipers or levers. Wheels run OK, without play in the hubs? Shifters work OK, and everything indexes satisfactorily? Definitely make sure any suspension forks are in good nick, as an overhaul can get quite costly.

If the adverts on my local bike buying Facebook group are any yardstick, I reckon you could get yourself a cracking 3-4 year old hard tail for the money you are looking to spend.

Once you've got the bike, just get out and open up another dimension to your cycling. I've had MTB's for years, and only fairly recently got myself back on to road bikes too. Love both types of riding, but the peace of a traffic free bridleway on a warm summer evening sure takes a bit of beating!

If you ever get as far as the Isle of Wight on a mountainbike, look me up. I'll be pleased to show you around some of the 240 miles of bridleways we've got down here!

Good luck with finding the bike.........you'll love it out there!

 

[bikeman66]

The thing with secondhand MTB bikes the thing that is most likely to need service/repair is the forks, so be aware of that and ask when they were last serviced.Most manufacturers recommend they are serviced every year, some people dont bother as it costs. My secondhand Scott scale despite supoosedly having just been serviced ( shop demo bike) originally came with rockshox rebas ( I think they were Reba) within months they were leaking air. I put them in for service and apparently the internals were so scratched they leaked and were virtually un-repairable. But Rockshox, Fox or Marzochi seem to be the most common decent forks. I have Manitous which aren't that common but are decent, mine are super light RCD's, usually reviewers complain they flex but I am small and have not been a problem for me.
Yes Suntour seem to be be on a lot of budget bikes and "serious" MTBers look down their noses at them. Depends if you are going off massive drop-offs, taking air at every opportunity and bombing it through rock gardens.

I believe Marzocchi forks are no more!! Shame, as they did actually make some pretty decent stuff. Fox forks are well regarded by many, but in all honesty I've always been happy with my RockShox, so I suppose it's a case of stick with what you know. Had a Scale 20, years ago (2006 I think). Loved it. In fact, love Scott's full stop!

 

[mythste]

I'll bet there are quite a few second hand MTB's for sale near you. Personally, wouldn't go full suspension, as bearings and bushes may be an issue! A full set of these can really add up. I find my hard tail gets me everywhere I want to go without the weight and maintenance issues a full sus brings.

Would definitely lean towards hydraulic discs, as they can't be beaten in the mud and grime. Virtually maintenance free, and ample braking power on tap.

Most quality frames have anyway, but make sure it has a replaceable derailleur hanger. I've never broken mine, but have ridden with a couple of guys who have!!

If you have a mate who knows a bit about mountain bikes it is a sound idea to have him with you if you're looking second hand. All the basics of buying a used road bike apply. Make sure the bottom bracket feels OK by grabbing the cranks and wobbling them side to side. Any play, look deeper. Make sure the bars turn freely, but with no free play or grinding in the headset. If the bike has hydraulic discs, look for possible tell-tale signs of fluid leakage around the calipers or levers. Wheels run OK, without play in the hubs? Shifters work OK, and everything indexes satisfactorily? Definitely make sure any suspension forks are in good nick, as an overhaul can get quite costly.

If the adverts on my local bike buying Facebook group are any yardstick, I reckon you could get yourself a cracking 3-4 year old hard tail for the money you are looking to spend.

Once you've got the bike, just get out and open up another dimension to your cycling. I've had MTB's for years, and only fairly recently got myself back on to road bikes too. Love both types of riding, but the peace of a traffic free bridleway on a warm summer evening sure takes a bit of beating!

If you ever get as far as the Isle of Wight on a mountainbike, look me up. I'll be pleased to show you around some of the 240 miles of bridleways we've got down here!

Good luck with finding the bike.........you'll love it out there!

Thanks for the super comprehensive reply! The mech hanger point is one I would have missed completely and you're right, very important.

I've seen a couple of on-one imbreds around my price range that look nice, and also a Genesis Core 50 that I've taken a shine too but I'm not 100% convinced on the seller. I'll keep you all in the loop and can't tell you how much I appreciate the advice so far!

Now, let's tell the Mrs...

 

[MikeW-71]

RE forks, A lot of the bikes im looking at that come in under budget have Rockshox, I guess I'm safe in those?

Do I remember people saying avoid suntour like the plague? Have I made that up?

The basic Suntour forks are extremely cheap. They are OK when they're brand new, and if you're not going over very rough/technical terrain, they'd be fine. Give them some punishment and they just give up and they'll never be the same again.

I did that with mine, and while they show no sign of actually breaking, they pretty much stopped working. I replaced them with a RockShox XC32 air fork, one of the cheapest ones, which is immensely better. If you can get a bike with any RockShox fork, you're at a far better starting point than Suntour.

To throw a spanner in that, the Suntour Raidon and Epicon forks are (I'm told) actually decent air forks.

Otherwise, my advice would be the same as above. Disc brakes are a must, preferably hydraulic. After you've felt their performance, you'll want them on your road bike

 

[mythste]

The basic Suntour forks are extremely cheap. They are OK when they're brand new, and if you're not going over very rough/technical terrain, they'd be fine. Give them some punishment and they just give up and they'll never be the same again.

I did that with mine, and while they show no sign of actually breaking, they pretty much stopped working. I replaced them with a RockShox XC32 air fork, one of the cheapest ones, which is immensely better. If you can get a bike with any RockShox fork, you're at a far better starting point than Suntour.

To throw a spanner in that, the Suntour Raidon and Epicon forks are (I'm told) actually decent air forks.

Otherwise, my advice would be the same as above. Disc brakes are a must, preferably hydraulic. After you've felt their performance, you'll want them on your road bike

Thanks for that!

I'm going to aim for rock shocks for sure. I am going to try for trails and want something that'll see me safely through my progression. Buy cheap buy twice etc.

I've got HY/RD on my roadie already. Wouldn't go back to rim brakes, don't worry!

 

[Jody]

Definately second hand if i had that kind if budget. Just been having a look and there are some cracking bargains. GT Zaskar on ebay for 350 as an example lot number 161975598682. Few years old, nice upgrades, solid bike, light and fun to ride.

If your ok with spanners it's not too hard to do oil services on forks. Stripping the dampers is a bit more complex but still possible at home with the right setup. Watch for ANY wear or scratches on the stanchions as this is pretty terminal for the forks. They will still work but suffer from premature wear on the bushes and oil leaks.