Discovering (North) Devon

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IaninSheffield

Veteran
Location
Sheffield, UK
Prologue

Following a year during which, like many people, our annual plans had to be consigned to the wastebasket, we were grateful to once more have the chance to get away with the bikes. ‘We’ is me and my good friend and cycling buddy, Paul. As a single-centre tour, our summer cycling ‘expedition’ once more provided a more focused experience of a specific area, rather than a whistle stop tour through multiple places. North Devon provided the play area for our explorations from a B&B base in Barnstaple.

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With two travelling days bookending our trip, we had five days available to explore the compass points around our base. We gave ourselves six potential routes from which to choose, differing in length from 42 to 59 miles, but each having a minimum of 1000m of ascent - after all, this was Devon! We chose which route to do on which day depending on how we felt and what the weather threatened to deliver.

Devon, especially the north coast, is an area with which I have only minimal experience. I did once spend a few days camping in Minehead and had a couple of excursions on the bike. And of course Paul and I whizzed through Devon on our northbound LEJOG.

Rather than doing battle with two bikes and gear on the rail network, we once more settled on the simplicity of the car to whisk us to our destination. This of course also meant that we were less restricted on how much ‘stuff’ we could take along … though that’s not always a good thing!

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The Poplars B&B

The journey down was reassuringly uneventful and we arrived at our B&B in Barnstaple - The Poplars - late afternoon as planned. After unloading, briefly reassembling, then storing the bikes, we were shown to our room, all Covid precautions observed. After a shower we yomped down into town to explore possible contenders which might suitably provide our evening meal and perhaps a small refreshment. It proved to be further on the roads than it appeared in the map, but at least provided an opportunity to begin to become acquainted with Barnstaple. For simplicity's sake and to obviate the need for making a decision, we settled on the local Wetherspoons. The food and beer were the usual cheap and cheerful standard, but if there were other options around town, we'd likely take advantage of them in subsequent nights. So after leaving we took a roundabout route back to base and noted several alternative eating and drinking holes. Barnstaple began to look more and more appealing with several architecturally interesting buildings, not least the 'Pannier Market' - surely a must visit for cyclists.

We picked up the cycleway running betwixt the Park and the river which wafted us right back to the entrance to the B&B, and in so doing provided a much more pleasant and attractive route to and from town. (Not sure why the B&B host had warned us not to cut through the Park after dark?) It’s a route we'll doubtless either be treading or pedaling several times as the week unfolds.
 
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IaninSheffield

IaninSheffield

Veteran
Location
Sheffield, UK
Day 1 - Ilfracombe
40.6 miles, 3798 feet of ascent


After a decent night's sleep, the prospect of the first day's cycling stirred up plenty of enthusiasm. The breakfast offering was fairly standard, but of a good quality - for me, yoghurt and berries, a cooked breakfast, and toast to follow. We shared the long table at breakfast with a married couple who were also here for the cycling. They spend a few days away at a time in locations with easy access to cycleways created from former railway lines - gentle cycling with plenty of stops. 'Gentle', however, is not an appropriate adjective for our ride today!

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Braunton craft market

After fettling the bikes from yesterday's journey down in the car, we were immediately on a local cyclepath which shortly joined the main Tarka Trail towards town. This section follows the northern bank of the River Taw and proved to be a popular route for a wide variety of cyclists - some out to do their shopping, family groups, some experienced, others less so, but somewhat surprisingly, no loaded tourers. I always enjoy cycling alongside water, so the half dozen miles to the pretty little estuary village of Braunton was delightful - no traffic and undemanding topography. That changed as we left the village, turned inland and launched into the first of several climbs that would test our mettle.

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Somewhat ... off-piste?

After a short distance up narrow country lanes, the Garmin pointed us up a steep track. With rock outcrops and deep channels cut by rain-formed streams, this was not a section for which either of our bikes were suited. A check of the screen map suggested we only had about a quarter mile before it looked like the track rejoined a road. So after a few minutes hiking rather than biking, and with a couple of nettle stings for good measure, we rejoined tarmac and climbed for a little while longer before dropping precipitously into Woolacombe. Despite the rather grey weather, holidaymakers were out in force, so much so, that for someone who's been largely ensconced away from the public at large for that past year, this was slightly unsettling … at least until it once more becomes part of 'normal' life.

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Descending into Woolacombe

It was still fairly early so choose to move on before taking a coffee break. The steep climb out of town took us up to the hilltop settlement of Mortehoe where the exertions needed to reach it obliged us to reassess our needs for a break. And we would have stopped at the café opposite the church had a family not nabbed the outside table we had our eye on. Onwards then towards Ifracombe and further climbing before reaching NCN route 27 which descends slowly into town along the long gone railway line.

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Railway tunnel on trail into Ilfracombe

It proved to be another stunning section with great views down the gorge and at times over the Slade reservoirs which serve the town. The tree-lined path attracted cyclists, runners and walkers, some of whom might have been using the path to connect town with the hilltop campsites we passed a mile or so back. It was a much less demanding descent than the one into Woolacombe, where our fingers continually gripped the brakes for dear life.


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No, not cooling towers, but the Landmark Theatre, Ilfracombe

We took a break at, and sustenance from the Landmark Theatre cafe where a Devon creamed tea seemed to be the right thing to do. After a welcome and well-earned break, just as we set off, the skies threw down a fine drizzle to cool us off as we embarked on the next protracted climb. The dampness accompanied us all the way up, briefly down, then decidedly back up, before finally dropping into Combe Martin. Had the conditions been more appealing, we might well have paused for a brief break, but chose instead to push onwards (and of course upwards!) once more.

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A rather damp bay, Coombe Martin

Our route was keen to test us further with a demanding extended climb up onto the ridge above the valley. However, since the main road out of town didn't appear to be too busy, we chose instead to take this more gentle ascent as it gradually bowed to the contours passed, rather than brutalising them into submission. As we rejoined our original route at the summit, only a further brief stretch of climbing was needed before we could begin the final extended descent towards Barnstaple. This proved to be one of the highlights of the day with easy miles gained often by coasting. Pretty villages and hamlets came and went as the River Yeo kept us company as we gently pedaled along yet more gloriously tree-lined roads. Perhaps this is the Yeo Valley which lends its name to the range of yoghurt products?

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Cyclepath, Barnstaple

On entering the fringes of Barnstaple we picked up the local cyclepaths, contributing towards what would seem to be an extensive network serving the town. The paths provided a very pleasant, quiet and safe route across town and back to our B&B. The gentle miles out along the Taw, the challenging topography of the middle section, the seaside towns along the North Devon coast, the quiet lanes, the tree-lined paths reclaimed from former rail lines, and the pleasant, easy closing miles all contributed to a most enjoyable day. Even the rather drab and slightly damp weather did little to curb our enthusiasm, especially given the battering it's inflicted on the UK in recent weeks.

Our evening repast was provided courtesy of 'The Ganges' Indian restaurant which exceeded all expectations. Some of the dishes listed on the menu were the classics you might expect to find in most similar restaurants, however, there was a whole raft of dishes which were completely new to me. This is where I'm in my element; the way less trod applies not only to bike routes, but new experiences more generally and especially with food. After a conventional poppadoms and pickles opener, we ordered a range of dishes including a Punjabi Railway Lamb curry, a sag aloo, 'Three Sisters' (creamy chickpeas, sweet potato and spinach), and a smoked aubergine curry. Excellent food, excellent service.
 
Spent a couple of weeks in the area around Woolacombe in 2016 and enjoyed exploring it, despite how steep it is. That road you descended into Woolacombe is evil in the other direction. I must have tried it a dozen times, and never made it to the top. I'm going to blame it on traffic coming the other way... :whistle:

That final kick on the Mortehoe climb took me by surprise. Looking forward to reading the rest of your reports :thumbsup:
 

chriswoody

Legendary Member
Location
Northern Germany
Fantastic, I grew up in North Devon so spent my younger years cycling all over the roads and lanes around there, it's great to see the photos of all the places I know so well. Overgrown lanes and nettle stings sound familiar! I look forward to seeing more of your report.

As an aside when the landmark theatre was first built in Ilfracombe all the locals came to know it as Madonna's Bra! It certainly is a distinctive looking building.
 
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Prologue

Following a year during which, like many people, our annual plans had to be consigned to the wastebasket, we were grateful to once more have the chance to get away with the bikes. ‘We’ is me and my good friend and cycling buddy, Paul. As a single-centre tour, our summer cycling ‘expedition’ once more provided a more focused experience of a specific area, rather than a whistle stop tour through multiple places. North Devon provided the play area for our explorations from a B&B base in Barnstaple.


With two travelling days bookending our trip, we had five days available to explore the compass points around our base. We gave ourselves six potential routes from which to choose, differing in length from 42 to 59 miles, but each having a minimum of 1000m of ascent - after all, this was Devon! We chose which route to do on which day depending on how we felt and what the weather threatened to deliver.

Devon, especially the north coast, is an area with which I have only minimal experience. I did once spend a few days camping in Minehead and had a couple of excursions on the bike. And of course Paul and I whizzed through Devon on our northbound LEJOG.

Rather than doing battle with two bikes and gear on the rail network, we once more settled on the simplicity of the car to whisk us to our destination. This of course also meant that we were less restricted on how much ‘stuff’ we could take along … though that’s not always a good thing!

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The Poplars B&B

The journey down was reassuringly uneventful and we arrived at our B&B in Barnstaple - The Poplars - late afternoon as planned. After unloading, briefly reassembling, then storing the bikes, we were shown to our room, all Covid precautions observed. After a shower we yomped down into town to explore possible contenders which might suitably provide our evening meal and perhaps a small refreshment. It proved to be further on the roads than it appeared in the map, but at least provided an opportunity to begin to become acquainted with Barnstaple. For simplicity's sake and to obviate the need for making a decision, we settled on the local Wetherspoons. The food and beer were the usual cheap and cheerful standard, but if there were other options around town, we'd likely take advantage of them in subsequent nights. So after leaving we took a roundabout route back to base and noted several alternative eating and drinking holes. Barnstaple began to look more and more appealing with several architecturally interesting buildings, not least the 'Pannier Market' - surely a must visit for cyclists.

We picked up the cycleway running betwixt the Park and the river which wafted us right back to the entrance to the B&B, and in so doing provided a much more pleasant and attractive route to and from town. (Not sure why the B&B host had warned us not to cut through the Park after dark?) It’s a route we'll doubtless either be treading or pedaling several times as the week unfolds.
Seen your Kiwi trip travelog. You should consider publishing a travel book on your next big trip as you narrate well and you seem to know what info and answers readers are looking for. Thanks for sharing.
 
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IaninSheffield

IaninSheffield

Veteran
Location
Sheffield, UK
These are all places I've visited and loved since I was a child - Some 65 years ago.
I still visit often - But some of the climbs are beyond me now.
It won't be long before they're beyond me too. Time to start saving for an e-bike methinks. Saw a few folk on them, but none on the 'wicked' climbs - wonder if Devon's demon climbs are a little to much for electric assist?
 
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IaninSheffield

IaninSheffield

Veteran
Location
Sheffield, UK
Spent a couple of weeks in the area around Woolacombe in 2016 and enjoyed exploring it, despite how steep it is. That road you descended into Woolacombe is evil in the other direction. I must have tried it a dozen times, and never made it to the top. I'm going to blame it on traffic coming the other way... :whistle:

That final kick on the Mortehoe climb took me by surprise. Looking forward to reading the rest of your reports :thumbsup:
As we descended into Woolacombe, it struck me we'd luckily chosen the right direction for our loop. And I had exactly the same reaction at Mortehoe.
 
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IaninSheffield

IaninSheffield

Veteran
Location
Sheffield, UK
Fantastic, I grew up in North Devon so spent my younger years cycling all over the roads and lanes around there, it's great to see the photos of all the places I know so well. Overgrown lanes and nettle stings sound familiar! I look forward to seeing more of your report.

As an aside when the landmark theatre was first built in Ilfracombe all the locals came to know it as Madonna's Bra! It certainly is a distinctive looking building.
That's quite a proving ground you had there.
The 'Landmark' is certainly unique. Not sure what the architect was smoking when s/he designed it.
 
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IaninSheffield

IaninSheffield

Veteran
Location
Sheffield, UK
Seen your Kiwi trip travelog. You should consider publishing a travel book on your next big trip as you narrate well and you seem to know what info and answers readers are looking for. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you kindly.:thumbsup:
I get a great deal of pleasure and have learned so much from reading accounts by other touring cyclists. Just trying to pay a little back.
 
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IaninSheffield

IaninSheffield

Veteran
Location
Sheffield, UK
Day 2 - Tarka Trail
60 miles, 3379 feet of ascent

After the recent unsettled spell, today's weather forecast looked promising - dry, cloudy but with sunny intervals. Err, no. After breakfast, the view from the bedroom window can only be described, as the Scots would say, as dreech. A short delay allowed the fine rain to dissipate, then we were off on the cyclepath and down to the bridge over the Taw estuary. Another spanner thrown into the works with the cyclepath bridge closed to all cyclists and pedestrians. The detour into town added little distance and the path alongside the river, as we'd found yesterday, was perfectly pleasant.

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Barnstaple clock tower

Once we were back on track, our route took us past the station and out onto the westbound Tarka Trail. The surface from Barnstaple onwards was excellent and we were mostly treated to views over the estuary as we passed some of the stations which had once served their local communities.

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Fremington station on the Tarka Trail - cafe currently closed :-(

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View across the Torridge to Northam

Unfortunately, the rain which hadn't been forecast accompanied us for most of the morning. It was just within the margins of needing a waterproof to stave off the worst. Nevertheless that didn't dampen our enjoyment of such a varied, extended off-road section of cycleway as we briefly paused to take in Bideford station and the heritage displays provided in the railway carriage and signal box.

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Bideford station

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Bridge over the Torridge near Great Torrington

Despite a slightly uneven surface due to tree roots exerting their authority, the next few miles through woodlands crossed and recrossed the River Torridge oxbows, each elevated bridge offering views up- and downstream. Twenty-ish miles into the Trail, the metalled surface eventually gave out, but the subsequent surface, despite providing a little extra friction, was largely easy riding, even though the flat terrain had given way to a gentle incline. In brighter weather the wooded glades might have provided respite from the glare of the sun, but today it was more about shelter from the fine rain. By the time we reached the Orchard Cafe which sits conveniently by the trail, the rain had eased and we could sit outside whilst slowly drying out. The coffee and cake were most welcome, as was the setting amongst the apple trees bulging with ripening produce.

We parted company with the Trail a few miles further near Melton and gently eased back into Devon’s challenging topography along more quiet lanes. After climbing through Dolton, dropping first into the Taw then the Mole valleys, we found ourselves following the rivers upstream whilst enjoying occasional glimpses of the sun which brought our verdant surroundings more vividly to life. The exertions required for the persistent ups and downs allowed the excuse, as if one was needed, for a second coffee stop in South Molton. As we sat on the benches outside the coffee shop refreshed by our chocolate chip and stem ginger cookies, a young, solo female cyclist taking a break from her undoubtedly faster day ride joined us. Her love for the area came through in the conversation … as was her respect for, but pleasure in the terrain!

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Descending into Barnstaple

Our final climb after South Molton passed through the Castle Hill estate was a series of lung-busting testers, but the ridge along which we travelled back to Barnstaple afforded superb views over the valleys below, even as far as Dartmoor in the distance. The extended descent back into town and our B&B was also most welcome and a gratifying conclusion to the day’s outing.

In the evening we went in search of the Chinese restaurant recommended in the B&B information pack, only to discover it was closed until the following week. When you’ve worked your taste buds up into a frenzy of expectation only to let them down? That. The second ‘spoons in Barnstaple provided only modest solace in the form an unexpectedly enjoyable cauliflower and spinach curry, but the increasing volume of the youthful and exuberant clientele (I think it was results day) soon had us once more trudging across the Park back to our B&B. For the second night, despite darkness having almost fallen, we thankfully experienced no nefarious activity on our return journey.
 
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