Dynamo lights: hub vs sidewall

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coffeejo

Ælfrēd
Location
West Somerset
I've decided to make the investment and get dynamo lights but am a bit (understatement!) confused about the pros and cons of the different systems and what they're capable of.

What I want:

- Front and rear lights
- Light-sensitive (switch on automatically)
- Potential for USB charging system

Am I right in thinking that for the second two, a hub dynamo is the way forward?
 

ianrauk

Tattooed Beat Messiah
Location
Rides Ti2
You cant really get any better then a Son Delux hub and Busch & Muller lights.
Expensive but are well worth the money.

The B&M lights are light sensitive.
 
We both have the Son 28 dynamo hubs (myself and my OH) on our touring bikes. they have been brilliant - can't recommend them highly enough but they are pricey.

I have the Schmidt Edelux front light which I have had from day one - it is light sensitive so can go on auto mode - more than bright enough even in the worst weather that has been thrown at us (in Scandinavia).

However, we have replaced it (yesterday) on my OH's bike with a B&M Lumotec IQ2 LUXOS U LED headlight which (if you get the U model) includes a USB charger on the handlebar on/off/main beam switch. We will be trying it out at the weekend. Both lights have the ability to continue to emit light after you stop cycling, so you don't do the disappearing act in the dark... It is possible to get rear lights that run off the dynamo as well, but we have been advised against that in the past and tbh I haven't seen the need to go down that route (despite spending 12 months on the road in all weathers and conditions). I simply run a cateye TL-LD1100 rear light with rechargeable batteries (we used to have a small solar panel that recharged them but that failed after 6 months of everyday use sadly) and I run these lights on all of our bikes - really bright and rarely any need for the 2nd strip to be flashing. We get around 7 days from a set of batteries (high capacity ones) on tour with the rear lights running all the time and around 2 months or so on 'normal bikes'.

If you don't mind waiting a touch longer, I can let you know how we found the light - specifically the USB charging option next week after a couple of days trial. We then have a 2 week tour coming up at the end of the month which will give us a much clearer idea on the new light...
 

ushills

Veteran
I have the following on a road bike
http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/...emium-t--senso-plus-front-headlamp/aid:709237
http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/...mounting-on-seat-stay-or-seat-post/aid:709311

I upgraded the front to the premium as it gives better coverage width wise and is suitable at speed.

I paired with the following hub, laced into a mavic open-sport rim
http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/shimano-dh-3n80-hub-dynamo/aid:489153

This is cheaper than the SON and is still very good.

The lamp is automatic and can be manually turned on and off as well, the connection from the front to the rear is straightforward and the secula can be seatpost mounted as most require mounting to a rear rack.

Based an this I would go with the following front as this has USB charging built-in

http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/...front-headlamp-with-usb-connection/aid:620049

Avoid anything but a hub as I used a sidewall before and it was unreliable in the wet and icy conditions.
 

the snail

Guru
Location
Chippenham
Shimano DH3N80 is what I've got, good quality unit with nice bearings, stood up to 2yrs audaxing/touring riding through floods - does the job fine in a boringly reliable shimano way., I don't see the point in paying £150+ for the SON, when you can buy a complete wheel with dynohub and lights for about the same price.
Rosebikes have some good deals, if I get around to putting a dyno setup on my tourer it will probably be
http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/atb-front-wheel-28700-c-dh-3n80---a-719/aid:484624
http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/b--m-lumotec-iq2-luxos-b-senso-plus-front-headlamp/aid:620026
http://www.rosebikes.co.uk/article/b--m-seculite-plus-back-light/aid:50219
I have a dyno rear light on mine, I think you might as well have a completely battery free , you can always add a cheap flashing rear for a belt and braces setup.
 

GrumpyGregry

Here for rides.
Shimano dynohub for me, bought second-hand off here, powering B&M lights front and rear. Works brilliantly and I don't have to worry about flat batteries or staying out after dark.
 

andrew_s

Legendary Member
Location
Gloucester
I use SON 28 (1998 & 2009 vintages) and Edelux.
I use dynamo rear lights (B+M Secula or Toplight line plus) because there's no point in an automatic "senso" front light if you have to stop to turn a battery back light on. The disadvantage of dynamo rear is that you've got the wire, which some people find unsightly.
The Edelux is fairly senso-tive, and turns on quite readily, to the point were it may be on all day in winter. I doubt I touch the switch more than twice a year.


Sidewall dynamos have the advantages of being cheap, light and of giving zero drag when not in use. They also have the disadvantages of being noisy, giving a noticeable amount of drag when in use, sometimes slipping in the wet (= no light), and can possibly damage your tyre. You've also got to stop to turn them on or off, unless you don't mind risking your fingers getting in the spokes (= no point in automatics).

Hub dynamos give an un-noticeable amount of drag when the lights are in use, and a smaller amount of drag when they aren't in use. They never slip, are silent, and there is no chance of tyre damage. The dynamo bit is not far off 100% reliable, leaving only the possible bearing problems you'd get with any hub.
Because the hub is always turning, automatic on/off is possible, and on/off switches can be put on the light or other places you can reach whilst riding.
The magnets try to hold the hub still in one of 26 or so positions, with the result that there is sometimes a vibration that can be felt though the handlebars. Some people (eg Wouter at http://swhs.home.xs4all.nl/fiets/) have bikes that resonate at their normal riding speed and find this objectionable. I don't normally notice it.

There are normal wheel variants, which give power at a low enough speed to satisfy German regulations when used with a halogen light, and small-wheel variants that have fewer magnets because small wheels spin faster. You can use a small-wheel dynohub in a large wheel with LED lighting to get lower drag, at the expense of less light at slow speeds (going up steep hills) and less power available for your USB port or whatever.

The dynamo hubs that would be used by sports riders (with SJSC prices) are...
SON 28 - £160 to £260, depending on version
SON 20 (small wheel) - £170 to £220, depending on version
Shimano 3N80 - £100
Shimano 3N72 - £75
SP HB-017 (switchable) - £155
SP PV-8 - £90
SP SV-8 (small wheel) - £85

The power/drag performance of the hubs (within large/small wheel category) does not differ by enough to make a basis for choosing one over another

SON hubs have a 5 year guarantee, and have a pressure equalisation system to stop the contraction of air within the hub shell sucking water in past the seals. This may happen if you ride into deep water or fall off in a ford on a hot day, or go out of a warm house into cold & heavy rain. Servicing is by return to Germany via SJSC, cost about £50 when out of guarantee. SON hubs are available in a much wider range of options, and in some cases may be your only choice (eg for a Surly Pugsley or a Trice).
Shimano hubs have a 1 year guarantee. Officially the RH (connector side) bearings aren't serviceable. You can, but you may break the dynamo bit if you are clumsy about it. The 3N72 is noticeably heavier.
SP hubs have a 2 year limited guarantee (against manufacturer defects only). They aren't user serviceable, and currently manufacturer service means return to Taiwan (I believe). The HB-017 version has a switch on the side that moves the windings away from the magnets so there's close to zero electrical drag.

There are also a number of other dynamo hubs, such as the Shimano 3N30, that can be found quite a lot cheaper, especially on German websites. Generally speaking, these would be somewhat heavier, and give a small amount of extra drag lights on, and a larger amount of extra drag lights off. I'd consider that limits them to town bike use, but if the money is significant they are perfectly usable for all riding.

The best dynamo lights are generally either B+M or Schmidt (the Edelux is an upgraded version of the B+M Cyo). If you ride largely off-road, Supernova and Exposure make good, if expensive, front lights.

USB charging.
Neatest is built into the front light. You've choice of B+M Luxos U (£100), Axa Luxx 70 plus steady (£55), Axa Nano 50 plus steady (€55) (German prices from rosebike and bike-discount). The Luxos has the best & brightest beam, and a built-in cache battery that will continue to supply power for a while when you stop. How important the cache is depends on whet you have plugged in to the USB.
The other common option is the B+M USB-Werk (£55, Rose). This is a separate module that you would attach to the top tube. It's also got a cache battery, and is more reliably waterproof than the lights are. It can be run off a sidewall dynamo,if you insist.
There's also the B+M e-Werk (£76, Rose). This isn't USB as such, but is adjustable between 2.8V and 13.3V, and 0.1A and 1.5A so it's just a matter of setting it for USB. No cache battery.

Other USB chargers are available cheaply from eBay or Amazon. The common problem with these no-name charger is that they don't handle excess power well, so if you leave them plugged in whilst the lights are off and you've no USB plugged in or it has stopped taking power because the batteries are full, the charger can burn out.
 
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coffeejo

coffeejo

Ælfrēd
Location
West Somerset
Been away and slowly catching up with CC so a belated thanks for the input, everyone.
 
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