dynamo tyre wear
- Thread starter young Ed
- Start date
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PpPete
Legendary Member
- Location
- Chandler's Ford
I take it you mean "bottle" dynamos ?
Hub dynamos are vastly more reliable & efficient. There is an extra resistance when you are not taking power from them, but with the (rather expensive) SON hubs and the top-end Shimano models it is supposed to be the equivalent of climbing 3 ft in every mile.
Much cheaper from Germany b.t.w.
I have this one..
This one is as good electrically - just heavier.
Hub dynamos are vastly more reliable & efficient. There is an extra resistance when you are not taking power from them, but with the (rather expensive) SON hubs and the top-end Shimano models it is supposed to be the equivalent of climbing 3 ft in every mile.
Much cheaper from Germany b.t.w.
I have this one..
This one is as good electrically - just heavier.
e-rider
crappy member
- Location
- South West
they hammer the tyre big time! they also start slipping as soon as the tyre gets wet (i.e. riding in the rain)!
if the bike is for occasional light use (e.g. trips to the shop and back) then a bottle dynamo would be okay (although still not the best option), for longer rides or commuting everyday, definitely look at something else.
in years gone past before LED lights, dynamos were somewhat attractive, however the battery life and brightness of modern LED lights means you'd be a fool to buy a bottle dynamo nowadays!
andrew_s
Legendary Member
- Location
- Gloucester
They can damage the tyre, but were used without problems for many years.
If using a bottle dynamo, you should use a tyre that's got a reasonable amount of rubber on the sides, preferably as a ribbed dynamo track. Something like a Marathon, rather than a skinwall like a Pasela.
You should also take care that the dynamo is correctly aligned so that the axis of the dynamo and the axis of the wheel intersect, and that the fitting is solid enough that it will stay aligned. If the alignment is incorrect, the roller scrub will damage the tyre, drag will be higher, and slip more likely.
If using a bottle dynamo, you should use a tyre that's got a reasonable amount of rubber on the sides, preferably as a ribbed dynamo track. Something like a Marathon, rather than a skinwall like a Pasela.
You should also take care that the dynamo is correctly aligned so that the axis of the dynamo and the axis of the wheel intersect, and that the fitting is solid enough that it will stay aligned. If the alignment is incorrect, the roller scrub will damage the tyre, drag will be higher, and slip more likely.
OP
OP
young Ed
Veteran
Sorry yes I do mean bottle dynamos. What is the differences between the first and second link you sent me @PpPete ?
As seeing I can get one new for 50 quid i may save up and get one to charge my Garmin i am going to get!
I could fit it with a way switch one position being off 2nd position being Garmin and 3rd position being front light.
Cheers Ed
As seeing I can get one new for 50 quid i may save up and get one to charge my Garmin i am going to get!
I could fit it with a way switch one position being off 2nd position being Garmin and 3rd position being front light.Cheers Ed
PpPete
Legendary Member
- Location
- Chandler's Ford
DH-3N80 is lighter but more expensive than the DH-3N72
And the latter is only available in 36 hole.
marcusjb
Senior Member
- Location
- Twickenham
Depends what width tyres you want to run, but a rim like a Rigida Chrina (rated for 18-28mm tyre) will cost under £20. They do the Sputnik and the Grizzly for more touring-type applications. Similar money.
Good strong rims for not a lot of money.
Spokes - 25-30p each in smallish quantities for something cheap and cheerful.
Spoke key for a few quid
Buy Roger Musson's book and use your fork as the wheel-building stand. Job done.
- Location
- Shrewsbury, Shropshire
Have a look at the SJS Cycles website. They have quite a range of parts if you want to have a go at wheel building, they offer a wheel building service and have ready built wheels of various specs too.
OP
OP
young Ed
Veteran
Thanks, looks like after the Garmin is paid for I might be looking at a dyno hub.
Would a dyno hub just drop right into the frame where my current hub is?
Are rear dyno hubs more expensive? would there be any advantage/disadvantage to having a rear or front dyno hub apart from the routing of cables along the bike on a rear hub?
Cheers Ed
Would a dyno hub just drop right into the frame where my current hub is?
Are rear dyno hubs more expensive? would there be any advantage/disadvantage to having a rear or front dyno hub apart from the routing of cables along the bike on a rear hub?
Cheers Ed
PpPete
Legendary Member
- Location
- Chandler's Ford
Rear hub is complicated enough without a dyno.
Don't try to re-invent the ....er .... wheel (sorry)
Go with a front wheel dynamo hub - it will be the same 100mm spacing as your current wheel (unless you have something very weird)
This is stupidly good value..... basically a rim, spokes and wheel build thrown in for less than a £ over and above the price of the dynamo.
The rim is not super high end, but it is very adequate and ideal for the 700x38c you want to run - personally I'd go narrower but that's just me.
Don't forget you need DC 5V for the Garmin (USB standard) and 99% of hub dynamos will give AC at constant current(-ish) and voltage varying according to speed.
ISTR you are into soldering in which case you "could" do this (missing out the Philips Saferide if you don't need lighting)
The impedance of the rechargeable cells will ( I gather) give you the over-voltage protection on the USB - although it might be safer to run it via cache battery (choose a model that can both charge and be charged at the same time - not all can).
Alternatively buy that Pedalpower SIC I recommended earlier.
Don't try to re-invent the ....er .... wheel (sorry)
Go with a front wheel dynamo hub - it will be the same 100mm spacing as your current wheel (unless you have something very weird)
This is stupidly good value..... basically a rim, spokes and wheel build thrown in for less than a £ over and above the price of the dynamo.
The rim is not super high end, but it is very adequate and ideal for the 700x38c you want to run - personally I'd go narrower but that's just me.
Don't forget you need DC 5V for the Garmin (USB standard) and 99% of hub dynamos will give AC at constant current(-ish) and voltage varying according to speed.
ISTR you are into soldering in which case you "could" do this (missing out the Philips Saferide if you don't need lighting)
The impedance of the rechargeable cells will ( I gather) give you the over-voltage protection on the USB - although it might be safer to run it via cache battery (choose a model that can both charge and be charged at the same time - not all can).
Alternatively buy that Pedalpower SIC I recommended earlier.
mcshroom
Bionic Subsonic
- Location
- Egremont, Cumbria
I have one of those wheels from Rose - it's done quite a bit of audaxing and touring with tyres from 25mm Krylions to 35mm Marathons and hasn't put a foot wrong 
Unfortunately this appears to be the only image of the bike I have that shows it.
Unfortunately this appears to be the only image of the bike I have that shows it.
PpPete
Legendary Member
- Location
- Chandler's Ford
SIC - is a product I linked to in an earlier post
istr - standard abbeviation for "I seem to recall"
red & green bits - if you don't know what that (standard circuit diagram symbology) is all about just don't go there, put your soldering iron away and buy a comercial product instead.... several have already been suggested to you.
