After very enjoyable trips to the Highlands the last two easters, I was keen to try somewhere different for this year's expedition. My choice fell on the Scottish Borders - it is an area I am probably unlikely to visit in any other context, and I have read and heard nothing but good things about the area as a cycling destination.
Route planning: I placed a number of restrictions on myself: Start in on near my home in Glasgow, end somewhere near a mainline train station. 3 day trip. Also, I really wanted to go through the Mennock Pass that I had read about in some "top UK climbs" book. With that, the route soon sorted itself out. Day 1 to Moffat, day 2 to the youth hostel in Kirk Yetholm, and day 3 to Berwick-upon-tweed and the train home.
In the weeks leading up to the trip I was getting a little worried about the unseasonably cold weather with strong easterly winds. But the last of the nastyness departed on Wednesday, and my weekend was as a whole in glorious weather conditions
Equipment: I used once again my magnificent Trek 7.3FX hybrid, which has the very low gears I knew I would need with long days in hilly terrain. I packed a bar bag to the brim with a spare set of clothes, and otherwise made do with jersey and jacket pockets for food etc.
Day 1, Glasgow to Moffat - route map
I set off southwards on Good Friday morning and after a short trip though the suburbs I soon reached Eaglesham moor, where the Wind Farm was in full operation.
My legs were feeling great as I proceeded further through Galston and Sorn to Auchinleck, where I made the turn into the Nith valley. The wind started to pick up a bit, and I realized I was only a bit less than half way - it was going to be an afternoon of hard work! In New Cumnock I got onto the A76, which had a surprisingly low amount of traffic. I still chose to take the very scenic back roads around Kirkconnel and Sanquhar, from where I took a break admiring the snow-clad hills that I would soon venture into.
After 90km of riding I turned off and on to the Mennock pass - 10km of climbing lay ahead. At first it was very gentle, but the gradient soon increased, and my legs started to really feel the pain. Luckily the scenery was absolutely spectacular, so I could take a great many breaks to admire the view!
I eventually arrived at Wanlockhead, the highest village in Scotland. Very picturesque, and very covered in snow!
From there a descent into a surprisingly heavy headwind took me down to the M74 at Elvanfoot, and I proceeded south along the old road before finally reaching my destination of Moffat after nearly 7 hours of riding time. I spent the night at the 29 Well St B&B, which I can recommend throroughly. Decent price for single occupancy, secure bicycle storage, and an excellent breakfast the next morning.
Day 2: Moffat to Kirk Yetholm - route map
Day 1 was hard work with rewarding scenery, and day 2 was more of the same, as I traversed the border region to end up within a mile of England. I started by heading south to Eskdalemuir, where I stopped off to take a look at the Buddhist centre.
I then passed through the most remote section of my trip, crossing through Ettrick forest park and heading east towards Hawick.
So far, the terrain had been mostly gently rolling hills, but I had somehow left the hardest work still to come. After two very tough climbs on either side of Jedburgh I was very happy to finally see the church of Kirk Yetholm in the distance.
I spent the night at the SYHA affiliated Friends of Nature hostel. As hostels come it was perfectly adequate, but unfortunately the small room heaters were not really able to cope with the very cold evening - luckily the blanket was suffuciently thick to keep me warm overnight.
Day 3: Kirk Yetholm to Berwick-upon-Tweed - route map
I had realized already when planning the trip that my legs would probably be very weary after the first two days (they were!), so day three was somewhat shorter, and a lot less hilly! Within minutes of setting off, I crossed the border into Nurthumberland.
I proceeded almost due east to the coast, where I wanted to visit the Holy Island, aka Lindisfarne, connected to the mainland by a causeway. The island is a bit of a tourist trap, but a bench below the old castle was a nice enough place to enjoy a lunch.
Back onto the mainland I proceeded a few miles north on the NCN1 route, taking in possibly the worst bit of cyclepath to be found anywhere, a path barely suitable for walkers, nevermind a bicycle. I image it must be nearly impassable in poor weather. I then proceeded to detour inland, as I wanted to visist a second tourist attraction, the Union Bridge. Evading a massive landslip on the banks of the Tweed, I arrived safely.
From here it was only 6 or 7 miles into Berwick and I arrived in good time to get a meal and pint (or two) before the uneventful train journey home.
All in all a very enjoyable trip, although I might reduce the somewhat optimistic cistance and climbing numbers for me next tour. I am already beginning to ponder the destination...
Route planning: I placed a number of restrictions on myself: Start in on near my home in Glasgow, end somewhere near a mainline train station. 3 day trip. Also, I really wanted to go through the Mennock Pass that I had read about in some "top UK climbs" book. With that, the route soon sorted itself out. Day 1 to Moffat, day 2 to the youth hostel in Kirk Yetholm, and day 3 to Berwick-upon-tweed and the train home.
In the weeks leading up to the trip I was getting a little worried about the unseasonably cold weather with strong easterly winds. But the last of the nastyness departed on Wednesday, and my weekend was as a whole in glorious weather conditions
Equipment: I used once again my magnificent Trek 7.3FX hybrid, which has the very low gears I knew I would need with long days in hilly terrain. I packed a bar bag to the brim with a spare set of clothes, and otherwise made do with jersey and jacket pockets for food etc.
Day 1, Glasgow to Moffat - route map
I set off southwards on Good Friday morning and after a short trip though the suburbs I soon reached Eaglesham moor, where the Wind Farm was in full operation.
My legs were feeling great as I proceeded further through Galston and Sorn to Auchinleck, where I made the turn into the Nith valley. The wind started to pick up a bit, and I realized I was only a bit less than half way - it was going to be an afternoon of hard work! In New Cumnock I got onto the A76, which had a surprisingly low amount of traffic. I still chose to take the very scenic back roads around Kirkconnel and Sanquhar, from where I took a break admiring the snow-clad hills that I would soon venture into.
After 90km of riding I turned off and on to the Mennock pass - 10km of climbing lay ahead. At first it was very gentle, but the gradient soon increased, and my legs started to really feel the pain. Luckily the scenery was absolutely spectacular, so I could take a great many breaks to admire the view!
I eventually arrived at Wanlockhead, the highest village in Scotland. Very picturesque, and very covered in snow!
From there a descent into a surprisingly heavy headwind took me down to the M74 at Elvanfoot, and I proceeded south along the old road before finally reaching my destination of Moffat after nearly 7 hours of riding time. I spent the night at the 29 Well St B&B, which I can recommend throroughly. Decent price for single occupancy, secure bicycle storage, and an excellent breakfast the next morning.
Day 2: Moffat to Kirk Yetholm - route map
Day 1 was hard work with rewarding scenery, and day 2 was more of the same, as I traversed the border region to end up within a mile of England. I started by heading south to Eskdalemuir, where I stopped off to take a look at the Buddhist centre.
I then passed through the most remote section of my trip, crossing through Ettrick forest park and heading east towards Hawick.
So far, the terrain had been mostly gently rolling hills, but I had somehow left the hardest work still to come. After two very tough climbs on either side of Jedburgh I was very happy to finally see the church of Kirk Yetholm in the distance.
I spent the night at the SYHA affiliated Friends of Nature hostel. As hostels come it was perfectly adequate, but unfortunately the small room heaters were not really able to cope with the very cold evening - luckily the blanket was suffuciently thick to keep me warm overnight.
Day 3: Kirk Yetholm to Berwick-upon-Tweed - route map
I had realized already when planning the trip that my legs would probably be very weary after the first two days (they were!), so day three was somewhat shorter, and a lot less hilly! Within minutes of setting off, I crossed the border into Nurthumberland.
I proceeded almost due east to the coast, where I wanted to visit the Holy Island, aka Lindisfarne, connected to the mainland by a causeway. The island is a bit of a tourist trap, but a bench below the old castle was a nice enough place to enjoy a lunch.
Back onto the mainland I proceeded a few miles north on the NCN1 route, taking in possibly the worst bit of cyclepath to be found anywhere, a path barely suitable for walkers, nevermind a bicycle. I image it must be nearly impassable in poor weather. I then proceeded to detour inland, as I wanted to visist a second tourist attraction, the Union Bridge. Evading a massive landslip on the banks of the Tweed, I arrived safely.
From here it was only 6 or 7 miles into Berwick and I arrived in good time to get a meal and pint (or two) before the uneventful train journey home.
All in all a very enjoyable trip, although I might reduce the somewhat optimistic cistance and climbing numbers for me next tour. I am already beginning to ponder the destination...
I must remember to bring my sword and axe next time!
