European Tour 2025 - The Roaring of the Winds

[RobinS]

Tuesday 20th May - Day 1


Home to Harwich


Time for the off!


Bikes basically fettled, a couple of test rides, but apart from that we haven't ridden our tourers since getting home from “European Tour 2019 – Year of the Headwinds”. A worldwide pandemic, Brexit causing changes to our lifestyle, moving house, and each of us having cancer got in the way, so here we are five years older, even less fit preparing to hit the road once again! Janet is now 58, and I am 65, still riding the same Revolution tourers as previous trips.Picked up a hire van in town, and drove it home where we loaded the bikes, eight panniers, two rack bags, and two bar bags in the back and drove off to the hire van depot in Clacton, where we unloaded everything from the van, and loaded up the bikes.

It was an afternoon ride from here to Harwich, quite nasty B roads, some bridleway, and some walking where the bridleway was unrideable. Hard work on loaded tourers for the first time in years, and a moderate headwind all the way.

Arrived at Harwich in good time, and had a meal in the Brewers Fayre near the ferry terminal. At the port later several cyclists waiting for the overnight ferry, most with considerably lighter loads than us. For some reason bikes boarded last, and had to cycle up and down a very steep ramp to get onto the ferry. A couple of beers on board, then retired to our basic cabin for sleep.

26km


Wednesday 21st May – Day 2


Hook van Holland to Katwijk

Docked in Hook of Holland before we woke, and at 8am disembarked – on the Dutch side cyclist treated much better, first off the ferry, seperate lane to passport control, so we were straight onto the good cycle trail before most of the motor vehicles were even off the ferry!

We rode in morning hazy sunshine, stopping at a cafe for breakfast pastries and a coffee as we left Hook. Then it was northwards, along good undulating surfaced trails through dunes and heathlands. We stopped for more pastries at Ter Heide, then carried on, in nice sunshine, but with a fresh headwind. Through Scheveninghen, then lots more dunes, actually quite hilly, but on good surfaces to Camping Nordduinen at Katwijk.Got the old F10 Xenon 2+ tent pitched, then rode to a nearby Lidl for supplies. Cloudy and quite breezy for the evening.

50km Total 76km

Thursday 22nd May – Day 3


Katwijk to Near Haarlem


The wind was blowing hard all night. We cooked a good breakfast, packed away, a bit slowly as out of practice, and were away, into the teeth of a gale by 10am. Lovely dune trails, into the fierce headwind led us to Nordwijk where we bought elevenses pastries, and some bread rolls for lunch. Onwards on more undulating dune trails, a picnic lunch just before Zandvoort, where we found a small supermarket for food supplies before carrying on into the gale. Stopped fairly early at Camping Zeeweg where we put our tent on a nice secluded, sheltered pitch amongst the sand dunes. Had a couple of beers at the site bar before returning to our pitch to cook dinner. Couple of evening showers, but mainly fine.

Short day riding due to the horrible wind, and our unfitness!


35km Total 111km


Friday 23rd May – Day 4


Near Haarlem to Egmond


Wind and rain all night, raining as I cooked breakfast, but stopped long enough to pack away. Rain started again as we set off, very cold squally showers and a ferocious headwind again. Rode firstly on a sheltered woodland “Bergweg” hilly trail, then into Ijmuiden to the ferry across the Nordsee canal (free for cyclists). Got sausage rolls just before the ferry, which we ate sheltering from the weather at the ferry terminal. After the ferry it was more horrble rain and wind to Wijk Aan See. More dune trails, rain stopped long enough for a picnic lunch, then onwards against the wind to Egmond where we found a supermarket for supplies, then to Camping Marklees.

Tough day against the wind and rain, made worse for me by the discovery that I had left my cycling waterproof in my mountain biking rucsack in the wardrobe at home!


39km Total 150km



Saturday 24th – Day 5



Egmond to Hoorn



Rain and gales overnight again, dry but grey in the morning with a strong SSW wind. We are leaving the coast today to head towards the Ijsselmeer, so wind direction was okay for a change. (on our 2019 tour coming the other way the Afluitsdijk was closed to cycles, needing a bus, a I gather it is still not fully open so we are going a different way).

We head east towards Alkmaar, good riding, nice hot sausage rolls from a bakery for elevenses, then find a Decathlon where I buy a much needed cycling waterproof! Back on the bikes and the rain starts almost immediately, heavy and horizontal. On across open polders to De Goon, then on to a campsite at Hoorn, near the shore of the Ijsselmeer. Pitch our tent in heavy rain, so as it's there we have a nice meal in the site restaurant, particularly apt, as tomorrow is our 40th wedding anniversary, and you never know if there is going to be restaurant for a meal out.. This wet and windy weather is making our comeback hard work, and is especially frustrating, as prior to departing on this trip it had hardly rained for months!


38km Total 188km

Sunday 25th May – Day 6


Hoorn to Kouden

Rain and wind overnight yet again, didn't ease until 8am so a bit late up. Packed away in reasonable conditions, cycled east through Hoorn in a heavy wet drizzle, fortunately the wind was behind us though. Then across polders, alongside ditches, through villages to Enkhuizen, where we were in time to get the 12.45 ferry across the Ijsselmeer. We had a krokketten in a roll, and a beer onboard for lunch, as it was a rather rough 80 minute crossing to Stavoren.

On disembarking the weather was a bit better across more polders to Kouden, where we found Camping Coudron, which unusually for this part of the world had free hot showers. The rain returned in time for us to go to sleep to the sound of it hammering on the tent.


34km cycling, plus 25km on the ferry Total 222km cycling

Monday 26th May – Day 7


Koudem to Haarlingen

Dry by morning so cooked a good breakfast, packed away, and out into the howling gale! First few kilometers were a desperate grind against the wind, then it was part sidewind, part headwind to Workum, and on to Makkum where we stopped for sausage rolls.

Onwards in the gale,sometimes sidewinds sending us careering, sometimes headwinds bringing us to a standstill. We fought our way onwards to Harlingen, and feeling drained by the fight stopped at the first posh holiday campsite. Pitched the tent, then went into town for supplies. Returning to the tent it the wind was still howling so we retreated to the rather nice site bar/restaurant for a couple of beers and a nice meal.

37km Total 259km

To be continued!

 

[Pat "5mph"]

That weather sounds horrific!
Well done for carrying on!

 

[RobinS]

Part two.....


Tuesday 27th May – Day 8


Harlingen to Leuwarden


Start of week two of our tour. Week one had been characterised by some pretty bad weather – surely it must improve?


It rained and blew a howling gale all night, not much sleep as we were the even our F10 might succumb to the wind! Up a bit late, when the rain eased, packed away and off by 10.30. In this bad weather we decided on an inland route, so headed east to Franeker where we got pastries. Then on in the continuing gale, partly behind us, partly a dangerous sidewind, and partly against us. Despite the weather there nice trials across fens, and loads of interesting birdlife.

The first campsite we looked at was far too windswept, so we carried on to Leuwarden, to Camping Hiddemastate. It was a small site, very well sheltered, but the wind was still roaring through the trees. Cooked in the wind and rain tonight.


38km Total 299km



Wednesday 28th May – Day 9


Leuwarden to Kantarfantar



Very heavy rain all night again, but today it stopped by 7am, so we cooked breakfast, packed the tent and were away by 9.15. Lovely trails led across fens, alongside canals, lots of birdlife, and hares. Stopped for a pastry in Burgum, then on in reasonable weather with wind mainly not against us! After a picnic lunch alongside a trail made of crushed seashells we stopped at Kollum for the supermarket, before carrying on northwards towards the coast again We found Kantarfantar Camping alongside a canal in lovely surroundings, and even some sun! Listened to Bitterns booming as we went to sleep.


43km Total 342km



Thursday 29th May – Day 10


Kantarfantar to Uithuizen


Very damp, but not actually raining as I cooked breakfast, then we packed away very wet kit. It was drizzling as we set off. First town, Zoutcamp, didn't have a bakery, nor did the next, Ulrum, so we continued eastwards to Leens, where got pastries and other supplies from the “Jumbo” supermarket.
Continued onwards in very wet, driving rain, too wet to stop for a picnic, so ploughed on to Uithuizen. Looked for a cafe or restaurant for an indoor lunch but everything was shut for some sort of religious holiday. It was still very wet so we headed for a campsite a couple of kilometers out of town for an early finish. Everything soaked, cooked dinner in the rain, and it was still raining into the night. Not a very inspiring day for Janet's birthday!


43km Total 385km


Friday 30th May – Day 11


Uithuizen to Termunterzil


The rain had stopped by morning, and there was even a little sunshine! We packed away slowly to give the kit a chance to dry a bit, but were still away by 9.30. Rode out of Uithuizen on fen roads and narrow trails to Spijk, no bakery there so on to Bierum, a small village, but it had a back street bakery with excellent pastries. Back towards the coast now, the Ems estuary, but the track was closed for floodbank works, so we backtracked on a well signed diversion, on very narrow trails across fens, over a very steep narrow bridge and finally to the seaward floodbank. Rode the landward side of floodbank south to Delfzijl and a supermarket stop. Remember standing at that supermarket back on our 2019 tour watching torrential rain – at least today was dry for a change!


Southwards out of town, a bridge was up to allow a barge though along a canal, there was another bridge a few hundreds meters along, so we dashed round and just got across before that one opened. Another kilometer, and I was a bit in front, across another bridge, when Janet got caught when that one opened as well! Out of town through industial areas, then back to the estuary floodbank for the run down to the Marina Holiday Park just outside Termunterzil. Put the tent up in warm sunshine, with a nice drying breeze for a change.


42km Total 427km

Saturday 31st May – Day 12


Termunterzil


Rest Day!
Warm sunshine forced us out of the tent. Got washing done and hung out, went for a wander around the harbour, very attractive place. Back at the site had a beer at the site bar, the very friendly owner and some friends were having a barbecue, so we got plied with freebie chicken wings. Later we went back to the harbour, to the YachtHaven restaurant for very good schnitzels, then finally back to the site bar for a couple more beers. Dry warm and sunny all day – has the weather finally decided to favour us? A better day for my birthday!


0km Total 427km


Sunday 1st June – Day13


Termunterzil to Bingum


A dry morning so we were early away along the sea walls, through bird reserves with quite spectacular birdlife, seals basking in the distance on the sandbanks. At the southern end of a large bay the trail headed inland to Bad Nieuweschans where we found a busy supermarket for supplies (supermarkets are open sundays in the Netherlands, not usually in Germany).


Leaving town we straight over the border into Germany, where the trail was dug up and closed! There were lots of diversions all the way to Weener, where we ended up on the wrong road out of town. Retraced our route and found the correct trail, along the banks of the River Emms to Bingum, and Emmsmarina Camping. Stayed dry but cloudy all day, breezy, but as our route wandered in all directions it was only against us part of the time.


53km Total 480km


Monday 2nd June – Day 14


Bingum to Knock


Cool but dry morning. We were away quite early, but delayed getting our deposit on the shower fob back – the only person with the key to the cabinet was out walking the dog! So on the trail finally by 9.45. Nice trails behind the sea wall. Thousands of sheep for company, all the way to Ditzum where we we were to get the ferry across the Emms. Unfortunately we just missed the 11.00 ferry, and with a break for lunch the next wasn't until 13.00. We had a beer and fishcake roll from a liosk at the harbour while we waited, then took the ferry across to Petkum. Followed a roadside trail into Emden where we bought supplies, then westwards against a very strong wind for the last 20km to Knock. Our gas supplies are getting a bit low, so we ate at the site Pizzeria.


46km Total 546km

To be continued...

 

[RobinS]

Part three....

Tuesday 3rd June – Day 15


Knock to Norddeich


Week three started dry and fairly sunny, but still the strong wind blows. The tent dried as we ate breakfast, and we were away by 9.30. Soon onto good trails, through several villages but no shops or bakeries. On to a sea wall trail, very fast with a strong tailwind for a change, then just as we were really getting somewhere the trail was closed and we were directed round roadside diversions. Eventually got to Greetsiel where there was an Edeka supermarket, with bakery, where we had pastries and stocked up on other supplies. Carried on along an alternative to the Nordsee Kustroute (which zig-zags all over the place), very fast with that rarest luxury of a strong tailwind. Ground to a standstill as Janet had a flat tyre, pinch flat caused by underinflated tyre going over the aggressive metal ridges at the edge of the many cattle grids. Patched it, but not a success, as the hole was on the seam at the side of the tube, so stuck one of our spare tubes in, and we soon going again. Ate our picnic lunch, then more sea wall riding, some tailwinds, but also some rather nasty sidewinds. Fast riding on the sloping seaward side of the sea wall to Norddeich. Went to the first campsite, then realised it was just a (very busy) motorhome stopover, so carried a few hundred meters to the real campsite. This was a very big, smart site, lots of caravans etc, but did have a nice field for small tents, and there were even a few other cycle tourers. The wind was still blowing hard into the evening, but at least not raining.


46km Total 592km


Wednesday 4th June – Day 16


Norddeich to Carolienen


It was raining again by morning, so cooked breakfast in the wet, and packed wet kit away. On the road by 9.45, in the rain and wind, fortunately the wind was behind us for a bit. Fastb trail along the seawall, then a diversion inland, back to the sea wall, fast but very wet. Found a small supermarket for supplies, and they had much needed gas – only the old style piercable canisters, and the tall thin ones, but we have multiple adaptors so can use almost anything!
Onwards, on the sloping seaward side of the wall, in more wind and rain, stopped at a beach bar for a beer and shelter for a bit. Onwards, looked at the next campsite, but it was both massive, and extremely windswept so we carried on. A diversion led us inland a bit, so carried straight on to Carolienen, where we found a small campsite, nearly all permanent caravans, but they a small, very sheltered Zeltplatz, space for us, and provided with a table and seats. The rian had now stopped, so we could cook up our supplies and eat in comfort.


57km Total 649km

Thursday 5th June – Day 17


Carolienen to Schortens


It was dry for breakfast but had started to rain before we finished packing away, so we hit the road in the wet again, and also into the teeth of a howling gale. Hard work on good flat trails, then the route was closed so we had to backtrack for 1.5km, and fight the wind along a main road for a while. Back to the trail and seemed to be getting even windier, hard to get above 10kph against it! Came into Jever, an ALDI for pastries and other food stocks, into the attractive town centre for a beer, then a camping shop for “proper” gas canisters, and finally a bike shop for a replacemet spare tube. We decided on a direct route towards Schortens, a good cycle trail alongside the main road that led us directly to a campsite, through the gale, thunder and lightning, and torrential rain for an early finish, somewhat drained from fighting the weather yet again.

30km Total 679km


Friday 6th June – Day 18


Schortens to Dangast


Heavy rain overnight, eased a bit by 7.30, breakfast cooked in the tent doorway, and packed away wet kit yet again. Very windy again, past Schortens to rejoin the Nordsee route near Sande. A mixture of some sunshine and heavy squalls, but with the wind blowing at 60kph+ it was quite dangerous when from the side, and a real stopper when head on. We struggled on to Dangast, on the coast, and stopped at a cafe for lunch. The heavy qualls were still coming through so we decided on another early finish, so checked in to the campsite by the sea there. It was a nice little seaside resort, but busy, as it was the start of a bank holiday weekend. Weather remained poor, so we retreated to a Pizzeria for some excellent pizza and pasta for dinner. Went to sleep to the roaring of the wind and lashing rain yet again.

31km Total 710km


Saturday 7th June – Day 19

Dangast to Nordenham

After overnight rain it was at least dry for a while to cook breakfast and pack away. So we were soon off into the ongoing gale. Initially head on along flat open trails, then we left the coast route for sidewinds cutting inland across to the River Weser. A flat, open roadside trail to Rodenkirchen where turned away from the wind northwards alongside the Weser, and to Nordenham. Went into town for shopping, then a beer in a bar to shelter from the rain for a bit. Went to the campsite and pitched in a break in the weather, then to the campsite bar, where there was a BBQ Party going on, so we had beer and snacks, sheltering under canopies from more torrential rain.

40km Total 750km

Sunday 8th June – Day 20

Nordenham to Bremerhaven

Heavy rain overnight (sounds familiar!), eased enough to cook breakfast, as our pitch was really sheltered from the wind. We were on the road by 9.30 , nasty cold rain and straight into a strong northerly wind. Hard going alongside the floodbank, then through a town and industrial area, deserted on a Sunday. We reached the ferry terminal, where it just a 15 minute wait for the ferry across the Weser to Bremerhaven. A fair sized car ferry this one, and in mid river we were hut by ferocious gusts of wind, hanging on to the bikes to stopp them blowing away! Winds now up to 100kph+. Disembarked from the ferry into a sheltered town area, hard going in the wind still, then onto more exposed quaysides by the river, straight into the wind and lashing rain sweeping across the cobbles. It was completely unrideable, so we sheltered in front of the closed tourist information office, along with several other cycle tourers to consider our options. One group pushed their bikes in the direction of the station with a hope of getting an onward train, but I managed to establish that there was a “HavenHostel” 1.8km away. We had to walk most of it as it was far too windy to ride, but we made it and checked in by 12.00. We managed to get an ensuite studio with a kitchen, and there was a secure bike store. We washed through dirty clothes and dried everything in our room, and using the kitchen cooked our supplies for dinner. The rain stopped during the afternoon, but the wind was still blowing.

In many years of cycle touring this was the worst weather we have encountered – the winds here make the Western Isles of Scotland seem gentle!

14km Total 764km

Monday 9th June – Day 21


Bremerhaven to Cuxhaven Duhnen

It was dry and breezy by morning, so after a good breakfast we were on the road by 9.30. Through the commercial port area, then out along the seawall. Stopped at a snack bar at a crazy golf place for currywurst und brotchen, with a nice beer for lunch, then on in welcome sunshine, trails either side of the sea wall. As we further along it got busier with loads of cyclists and walkers, as it was a bank holiday. When we had been this way in 2019 we had struggled to get on a campsite, so this time we went straight to the one we had eventually got on last time, after trying several others, this time though, that one was full, so we ended up trying the rather uninviting Camping Seelust. They found a little space for us amongst the slightly scruffy permanents, but the facilities were good and clean.

Cuxhaven Duhnen is a bust holiday resort, so there are lots of facilities around. We decided on a meal in a restaurant, then spent the evening in a celler bar 2m below sea level.

45km Total 809km

More to come....

 

[RobinS]

Before the next instalment a few notes about this tour. Our original plan was ride the North Sea coast route all the way to the northern tip of Denmark, then find another route home, this was going to take us up to 90 days. However having spent a good bit of the winter in Austria, if we set off at the beginning of May as hoped we would have exceeded our 90 in 180 Schengen days, so with not wanting to ride too much during the school summer holidays due to full campsites with opted for a shorter tour, with the target of just reaching Denmark, mainly as neither of us had ever been there!
The route - we were vaguely following the North Sea Coast route, but that route is is very wandering in places, and also has lots of variations, so we were often finding our own ways. We were often on various other long distance routes, and one of the issues is that with so many long distance trails the Coast route goes via devious inland routes to avoid duplicating another trail! That said, in the Netherlands and Germany the riding is invariably on traffic free trails, or very quiet speed restricted roads where bicycles have priority, so weather aside it is very pleasant riding.

 

[RobinS]

The story continues........

Tuesday 10th June – Day 22


Cuxhaven Duhnen


Woke to rain and wind yet again, and it didn't appear to be stopping. Checked forecast and it was expected to rain for several hours yet. Couldn't face packing away and riding in foul weather yet again, so stayed put for the day. Far too wet to think of washing any kit, so we festered for a while. By mid-afternoon the rain eased so we went out and had a loof around town, seafront etc. In the evening we revisited the cellar bar for a few beers.


0km Total 809km


Wednesday 11th June – Day 23


Cuxhaven Duhnen to Wingst


Woke up to sunshine! (well some mixed in with the cloud), breezy as always. We were breakfasted, packed and away by 9.30, along by the sea to Cuxhaven itself, then we diverted across town to a camping shop where Janet bought a replacement air mattress, hers had developed a faulty valve so gradually deflated when her weight was on it! Rode back to the coast route, rejoining it near the port area, out of town through the docks, then back to sea wall riding. The route took us inland to Ottendorf, an attractive town where we found a Lidl for supplies, then carried on along farm tracks, and over a few small hills to a campsite near Wingst. A cool breezy day, but reasonably and no rain! Quite quiet on the campsite here, compared to the packed sites at the coast.


48km Total 857km


Thursday 12th June – Day 24


Wingst to Buttel


Sunny from the start today, but loads of dew and condensation, so tent was pretty wet to pack away. Had our bacon butties and were on the road by 9.00. The North Sea coast route takes an inland route here, to go to Hamburg, but we were to continue North towards Denmark, so we cut across country to head for a ferry across the Elbe. This was off our maps, so we relied on Google, a mistake as it took us the wrong way until it directed along a non-existent trail! |Backtracked 5km and followed signposts and got to Wischaven where we found a bakery for pastries etc. From here it was only a short ride to the ferry, there was a 1.5km queue of cars, motorhomes and trucks, but we could ride straight past to the front to get straight on the next ferry. Apparently there had been a very low tide and two ferries had run aground on the mud trying to pass each other causing the holdup, when we arrived the tide had risen just enough to float them off and resume service! It was a 20 minute crossing to Gluckstadt then more floodbank riding, alternating sides down the Elbe estuary, with views of huge container ships to St Margaretten. Got supplies here at a small Edeka. It was only a further 3km to a small, almost deserted Elbzug Camping where we had a nice pitch with our own covered picnic table. The campsite owners were friendly, and also ran a small restaurant so we had a nice meal and a few beers there for the evening. Warm and sunny weather all day today.

49km Total 906km

Friday 13th June – Day 25


Buttel to near Busum


A fine sunny morning, breakfasted, packed away and on the road by 9.30. An easy ride to the ferry across the Nord – Ostsee Canal, again free for cyclists, then through Brunsbuttel and northwards. We were taking a more direct inland variant here, so it was nice trails across fields and through woodlands, a few hills, a stop for pastries at St Michaelisdon. Onwards to Meldorf, where we stopped for a beer in the town square, a Rewe supermarket for supplies, then headed back towards the coast. Past lakes full of wildlife, canals, and back to the seawall where we turned North to ride the coast towards Busum. The campsite just before town was right by the trail and after pitching we had a couple of beers at the site bar before cooking our meal by the tent in warm evening sunshine. It had been and sunny all day again.


54km Total 960km

Saturday 14th June – Day 26


Near Busun to Near Sankt Peter Ording


A fine morning again, so on the road in good time. Through Busum, a holiday resort with lots of bars and restaurants, but no sign of a bakery. On along Floodbank trails, alternating between seaward and landwards sides, loads of sheep, saltmarshes, and birdlife. We reached a huge sluice and locks , the Eidersperrwerk where the river Eider reached the sea. We had to walk across the final bit, and right by the trail was a breeding colony of Black-Headed Gulls, with lots of young, making huge amounts of noise. While watching them I was attacked by a Tern, and realised the Terns were nesting even closer, literally right under the railings at the edge of the trail! Immedautely after this the trail was closed for floddbank works and we were diverted inland, it was an 11km diversion, but on good trails, and through a freshwater nature reseve. Stopped for a picnic lunch in fine weather, then back to coast and sea wall riding to St Peters. It was quite hoht now so we had a couple of beers at a nice bar, then visited the Rewe for supplies. It was a short ride then to the campsite at the inland side of town, but they were full. We had passed another site by the sea, but that had looked packed, so the campsite reception directed us to another site 4km out of town. It was a nice site with good facilities, so we had showers and washed through some kit before cooking our food on site. It was still hot but now very humid, so the washing wasn't drying very well!


58km Total 1015km

Sunday 17th June – Day 27


It rained again overnight, had stopped by morning but it was overcast and very humid, our washing was still not dry! We were away in good time, and soon, along an inland route at Garding. The Edeka was closed (in Germany it's only in tourist resorts that supermarkets are open Sunday), but a bakery was open for early pastries – got to get them when you can! We rejoined the Coast route, but here it was across farmland, away from the coast. It was nice riding but threatening clouds were forming as we reached Husum. There was a market going on in an attractive town square by the harbour, so we stopped and sat outside a bar with a beer. It came on suddenly to torrential rain, so we scurried indoors, and had several more beers until the rain stopped. The barman was impressed about where we had cycled, and gave a free shot of some spirit to see us on our way! We headed out, against the wind to a campsite at the end of a peninsular by the sea – a real “end of the world” place, just the campsite and a derelict hotel! The site had an indoor kitchen and dining room for tent campers to use, so we cooked and ate our food sheltered from the weather. The skies were now clearing, but still the wind roars!


45km Total 1063km


Monday 18th June – Day 28


Husum to Dagebull


Dry and windy in the morning, soon away riding the sea wall trail against the gale yet again, inland, more sheltered for a bit, than back to fighting the gale along the floodbank. Fighting an ever increasing gale across marshes and nature reserves to the far sea wall, following that northwards. Pretty remote and desolate here, no shops or cafes or any habitations. Onto the seaward side side of the sea wall, really tough into the howling wind all the way to Dagebull. Into the village where we found a seafood cafe, and having worked out that “Krabben” are not crabs, google translate told us, but actually shrimps we had delicious “Nordseekrabben Brotchen” for a late lunch. Went to the campsite behind a hotel and pitched up, nice and sheltered. The only shop in the village was shut, so we went back to the seafood cafe for “Backfish” and chips for dinner. The pub across the road was shut so it was back to the tent for an early night. The wind was still roaring through the trees, and despite the shelter the tent was shaking.


47km Total 1110km

 

[RobinS]

The story continues....

Tuesday 19th June – Day 29

Dagebull to Hojer (DK)

Dry, but windy yet again. Leftover bratkartofeln for breakfast, packad and away by 9.30. Toof a fast roadside cycle path all the way to Niebull rather than the zig-zagging devious “official”route. Found a bakery for morning pastries, then an ALDI to stock up on dinner supplies. Onwards along minor roads, the ever-present strong wind part for us and part against us. Then it was onto a gravel trail, then grass! And finally back on tarmac for the last kilometer to the Danish border.

About a week later than we hoped, but we had made it to Denmark, through much of the worst cycle touring weather we have ever encountered.
Stopped for a picnic lunch by a lake then followed a busy road (with no cycle path) northwards. After a few km turned off onto a minor road, straight into the teeth of a gale yet again. After a short distance the tarmac ran out and the road (open to cars) became soft loose gravel on a rough hardcore surface, probably okay on our MTBs, but on rigid tourers with a heavy load, against the wind it was as bad as you could imagine. Rejoined a better road for last run into Hojer, where we found an ATM to get some Kroner. It was then a final 3km out of town to the campsite. It had an unmanned autocheckin system but we had our tent pitched on a nice, sheltered grassy pitch. It was still sunny, but very windy. This site also provided a kitchen to cook in, and a sheltered patio with furniture to eat.

50km Total 1160

Just a note about distances: We started off pretty bike-unfit, got better as we went along, but distances were quite low due to the persistent strong winds, mainly against us. My quoted distances are also partly guesstimales. Our basic cycle computers, successful veterans of several long tours both at various times succumbed to the horizontal rain, water ingress causing them to stop working for days at a time, then when they worked would often under-record distance!

Wednesday 20th June – Day 30

Hojer to Dagebull

Dry but very windy again. We were uncertain as to how to carry on from here, having achieved our main target. I consulted our guidebook, and cross referenced the marked campsites on the northward route with google, to discover that most were now motorhome stopovers rather than tent sites – this had been a problem through Germany, but seemed worse in Denmark. We decided, rather half-heartedly to continue north anyway, but almost straight off we ran into kilometers of the horrendous almost unrideable loose gravel, especially in the strong sidewind. Stopped and checked the map, and it seemed there were yet more dozens of kilometers of it to come! Janet had had enough of it by now, my hands were very painful – I have ongoing Dupytrens Contracture in both hands, had surgery on both a couple of years ago, and I was almost unable to hold the bars with the hammering they were taking. We decided to change course, head back towards Germany and take different routes back to the Hook of Holland, after all we had been “going” for a month now.

Got on the main road back to Hojer, stopped for supermarket supplies, then straight down the main road back to the German border, avoiding the gravel. In Germany we took a different, better route back to Dagebull, and straight back to the same campsite. We cooked up our Danish supplies on the campsite, then went to “Peter's Pub”, open this time.

We were a bit deflated on turning back, but even in retrospect it was the right decision, we were knackered, our bikes were struggling, our tent had six patches, and one bent pole by now – this tour was taking it's toll more than any other. Cycling over the Alps and Pyrenees was easy compared to the headwinds and rain of this Wadden Sea coast.

47km Total 1207km

Thursday 21st June – Day 31

Dagebull

A rest and recovery day!
It was still very windy, but dry, so we washed clothes, and cleaned kit generally, aired sleeping bags etc. Had delicious “Nordseekrabben Brotchen” for lunch again. The little shop was open, but had very little real food, so we went out to a “Ribs and Burgers” place an evening meal, followed by a couple of beers in Peter's Pub.

0km Total 1207km

Friday 27th June – Day 32

Cool but still dry (and breezy!) in the morning. We were out of breakfast supplies, so packed away and went straight to the little shop for pasties. We initially retraced our previous route down the seaward side of the seawall, then after 12km continued on this route rather the inland route of previously. First 30km was quite favourable winds, then it strong headwinds to Norderhaven, turned inland here, away from the wind and found a small supermarket in Suden to restock on food supplies. From there it was only a few km to a small campsite at Suderhaven. It was a real “back garden” place, we were in front of the owners lounge window, but quite nice with good facilities. Weather decent so we cooked our food, drunk some beer from the supermarket and had an early night.

46km Total 1253km

Saturday 23rd June – Day 33

Suderhaven to Tonning

It was dry and sunny again, we were promptly away, with good floodbank riding to get across a causeway to leave “Nordstrand Island”. It was then alongside roads back to Husum. Not raining this time, so we could see that it was a nice town. Found a cashpoint, then out of town on more easy smooth cycle trails alongside roads. Despite having the guidebook/map we had realised that in both the Netherlands and Germany there are separate cycle paths alongside most inter-town roads, so you can get anywhere just by following the cycle signposts. We took one of these more direct routes down to Tonning, a small town on the Eider river. We found a supermarket for supplies, then encountered an old boatshed converted into a beer garden, so we stopped for a couple of nice beers The campsite was only a further 700m, so we pitched up on the nice Zeltplatz, then returned to the boatshed for Backfish and chips, and another beer or two. Weather was still sunny, and the wind had even dropped.

47km Total 1300km

Sunday 24th June – Day 34

Tonning

Hot and humid in the morning, and we decided to stay put for the day. It was a nice campsite, with the nice town etc. nearby. Washed and cleaned stuff, fettled the rather battered bikes a bit, then went to the boatshed bar for lunch. Another visit to the supermarket for evening meal supplies, which we cooked on a picnic table on the well sheltered tent meadow. Nice relaxing day.
Could we possibly hope the weather had turned for the better?

0km Total 1300km

Monday 25th June – Day 35

Tonning to Busum

Weather had returned to “normal”! Rain as we packed away, then out into the gale yet again. A good trail alongside the river, then a good roadside trail towards the Eidersperrwerk sluice. Truly torrential rain, straight into the teeth of a gale. We had to walk across the sluice in horizontal rain. From there we had planned to take the sea wall route down the coast, but that was completely unrideable in the current weather. We took an inland route instead, but even there, on a good cycle path alongside the road we were blown into the sides several times, so ended up pushing our bikes for the next 4km! Gradually got a bit more shelter, so we eventually rode, wobbling in the wind to Wesseburen, and a Rewe for pastries and other supplies.
The worst of the storm had now passed, the rain had eased but it was still blowing a gale. We followed roadside trails onwards, then more heavy rain. Carried on then stopped fairly early at Camping Seeschwalbe near Busum, same site as on the outward run. The bar/bistro was shut Mondays so we cooked by the tent in the wind and rain. We discovered that the German Met Office had issued a Red Weather Warning for our area for that day.
Another incredibly tough day on the road.

32km Total 1332km

To be continued...

 

[RobinS]

Next instalment....

Tuesday 24th June – Day 36 ( I know the dates aren't in order, but on my written record I got some wrong! The actual days of cycling are in order!)

Busum to Krautsand

In the morning the gale was still blowing, but not raining as much. We packed away, and prepared despite dire warnings of how foolhardy it was – another cyclist on the site was resigned to spending a second consecutive day sheltering from the weather!
We set off, down the coast, continually battered by fierce sidewinds for 10km. Then we could turn inland towards Meldorf, with a huge tailwind cruising at 30kph on the big ring! Got pastries in town, then planned a “strategic” route onwards, by following the main road we could ride with just sidewinds, and even a bit behind us, rather than the winding trail which would involve some headwinds. There was a good roadside cycle path, so we made good progress, through towns and villages, over a motorway, to Ostermoor where we got a (different) ferry across the Nord – Ostsee canal. Then on, along fast trails to St Margaretten for supplies and more fuelling pastries. Down onto the Elbe bank trail, good going to start, but then battered by the wind again for the final 8km to the ferry at Gluckstadt. We cycled past past another huge queue to get straight on the next ferry across to Wischhaven. We had ridden a long way so planned to camp at the nearby Camping at the Lighthouse. Unfortunately a bridge was stuck open so we had to take a long diversion to get there. It was a rainy evening, with no nearby bar or restaurant so we cooked in the tent in the very wet cold drizzle.

84km Total 1416km


Wednesday 25th June – Day 37

Krautsand to Otterndorf

The rain had almost stopped by morning, so we packed away and out into the gale by 9.30. Lots of floodbank riding, on and on, straight into the teeth of the gale, an incredibly hard grind. By now Janet had remastered the art of close formation riding, not easy with four panniers and bar bags, so she stuck to within 10cm of my back wheel for hours. If she lost concentration and dropped back even a meter that was it, she could never catch up. We eventually came into Otterndorf for supplies, then a final 5km to a really nice campsite in a holiday resort village by the sea, and a lake. Pitched up, and went to a nearby restaurant for some beers and a meal after another really tough day.

72km Total 1488km

Thursday 26th June – Day 38

Otterndorf to Cuxhaven Duhnen

After the hardships over the last few days we decided to just do the short run to Cuxhaven Duhnen today for a bit of a rest. We packed away in the dry, but it started raining as soon as we started cycling. Nice trails alongside the Elbe estuary, but steady rain, fortunately the wind was moderate for a change. Straight through the dock area of Cuxhaven, past the old harbour, then along the seawall to Duhnen. It was still raining so we went to a bakery cafe for coffee and cake before checking in back at the same campsite. It was still raining, with a gale blowing, so we ate out at a restaurant, then had some beers in the underground bar – at least there we were away from the roaring of the wind!

26km Total 1514km

Friday 27th June – Day 39

Cuxhaven Duhnen

Gales all night, and still raining by morning so we decided on a rest day. Too wet to risk doing washing, so we had a long lie-in!
By about 2pm the rain had stopped so went for a wander around the resort, had a beer at a beach bar, and bought supplies to cook back at the site.

0km Total 1514km

Saturday 28th June – Day 40

Cuxhaven Duhnen to Bremerhaven

Dry and sunny, but still windy. Packed away and on the road by 9.20. Straight into a fierce headwind along the coast. Found a 4km diversion slightly inland, a rough surface and slightly undulating, but sheltered from the gale through woodlands. Back to the hard grind along the coast into the wind to Dorkum, then the relief of a sheltered inland stretch, then back to the coast and really tough to Wremen. No shops or bakeries to refuel, so we stopped at a restaurant for currywurst und pommes. Back on the coast trail and another real fight into Bremerhaven. Feeling tired we decided to head for the HavenHostel again rather than carry on across the Elbe today. We got a studio with kitchen again, so went across the road to an Edeka for supplies to cook for ourselves.

56km Total 1570km

Sunday 29th June – Day 41

Bremerhaven to Dangast

After breakfast at the Hostel we set off in fine weather, short run down to the Weser ferry in time for the 10am depature. Peaceful crossing with no howling gale this time, and we were soon cycling through Nordernham, taking a different route from the outward trip.

Straight grit trails across country, then roadside trails to Seefeld, on to the coast of the Jade Bight. Favourable winds today, but no sign of any shops, so we stop at a cafe for lunch. Rounding the southern end of the bight it was northwards along the coast, straight into the strong wind for the last 10km to Dangast. It was only when we got there that we realised we had camped there a few weeks earlier, so we returned to the same campsite, and even the same pitch! The resort was quite lively in warm, sunnier weather, so we went to a beach bar for a couple of beers, and were tempted into “Kibberling mit Pommes” - pieces of cod cheek in batter with chips, and first class it was too. A dry day apart from one shower, but still windy.

60km Total 1630km

Monday 30th June – Day 42

Dangast to Wittmund

Fine and sunny, with light winds! Coastal trails, then we headed off the coast route to take a more direct route across towards the river Emms. Nice lanes, grit trails, and good signposting (fortunate as we were “off-map) led us round Schortens and on to Jever. We stopped there for beers again, as it would be rude not as the Jever Brewery is only a couple of hundred meters away from the town square bars! Onward, with more good signposting on roadside trails to Wittmund. Rode just out of town to a nice campsite. The bar was shut so it was fortunate we had picked up a few beers in in a Netto in town!
Warm and sunny all day.

43km Total 1673km

To be continued........

 

[RobinS]

It goes on....

Tuesday 1st July – Day 43

Wittmund to Timmerl

Warm and sunny morning with no wind for a change. Away by 9.45, on good roadside trails, off our maps but good signposting. Rural roads then canalside trails. Hot and sunny, stopped for pastries then onwards to find a food shop at Grossfen. The last 10km was very hot so we had a few beers at the bar at the campsite, 35c today, but cooled a bit as we cooked our evening mael on the site.

38km Total 1711km

Wednesday 2nd July – Day 44

Timmerl to Bad Nieuwschans (NL)

Hot from the start today, good roadside trails, still off our map. Stop for pastries at Neermoor, then onwards through Leer, and back onto our map/guidebook. Leer was another attractive town. Out and over a large bridge over the river Emms. Down a riverside trail to Weener, then a mix of urban riding and across fields to Bunde where we found a Lidl for supplies. It was then on the road (cycle trail was closed) to the Netherlands border, where we were almost straight into the campsite. It was very hot and humid, but came on to rain later.

42km Total 1753km

Thursday 3rd July – Day 45

Bad Nieuwschans to Annerveenschekanaal

It was wet overnight, and we suffered a major invasion of slugs, Janet has a phobia of them, so it resulted in lots of shreiking! It was still very damp in the morning, so we packed away wet kit, wiping slug slime off stuff as we packed it. Cool and cloudy to start but gradually got sunnier and warmer as the day went on. We have a Falk Fietsatlas, rather old now as it's from our 2019 trip, but it shows all the cycle routes and Knoopunt number points, so we can easily navigate away from the maps of the coast route guidebook here, so we roughly planned a completely different route onwards where we had never been before. We followed good roadside trails to Winschopfen where we stopped for pastries, then dirt and grit trails cross country, then canalside trails into Veendam for a supermarket stop. Very devoius and winding route out of town round lakes and across canals, then a final canalside trail to a very quiet and secluded campsite by the canal. Reasonably fine weather so after pitching the camping kit was able to dry out.

48km Total 1801km

Friday 4th July – Day 46

Annerveenschekanaal to Appelscha

Warm, mainly sunny, but windy again. Nice trails across fields and through woodlands into Annen for pastries, then more nice riding, always with a headwind though. Through a large town, Assen, where we found a supermarket for supplies. Good trails led onwards, but a very strong headwind now. Reached Appelscha, a nice village, obviously popular with tourists, as there were loads of bars and restaurants, so we stopped at a bar for a beer. On though nice woodlands, then decided to stop early, as it was obviously a nice area. It was quite a posh holiday site, but a nice pitch, good facilities, and not too expensive. We had another beer sitting outside the site bar restaurant, but returned to our pitch to cook our supermarket supplies in warm sunshine on our sheltered pitch.

60km Total 1861km

Saturday 5th July – Day 47

Appelscha

A rest day. Cloudy, cooler, with a bt of light rain. Had a leisurely breakfast, risked a bit of essential washing. Rode into town for shopping, lunch etc. Discovered that here it was actually a National Park, hence it's popularity. Intermittent light rain, so back at the site we went to the restaurant for a nice evening meal.

6km Total 1867km

Sunday 6th July – Day 48

Appelscha to Giethoorn

A damp morning, dry enough for breakfast, but kit was wet for packing away. Nice forest trails through the National Park to start, then open farmland with nasty headwinds. A roadside trail led us into Steenwijk, now in heavy rain. We stopped at a Lidl for pastries and a bit of shelter, for lunch as well as elevenses, as no picnic lunch in the rain! Out of town open polders led us to Giethoorn, another tourist village, loads of canals full of boats, footpaths and cycle paths with no cars in the village at all. Busy, so we walked our bikes through perambulating tourist the last few hundred meters to the campsite, accessible only on foot/bike or by boat. It was raining steadily now, so when we were offered the use of a “Trekking Cabin” for not too much money we were quite happy!
It was torrential rain the rest of the afternoon, so after a couple of beers in a nearby cafe we were happy to return and cook dinner in a dry cabin.

52km Total 1917km

Monday 7th July – Day 49

Giethoorn to beyond Kampen


Good night's sleep in the hut, it rained all night, and was still raining in the morning, so it turned out that our choice of the cabin was a good one!
We were away, in the rain, by 10.00 following roadside trails southwards to Blauwe Hande, then west across a long causeway between lakes in a strong sidewind and driving rain. Stopped for pastries at Vollenhove, then across farmland to join a trail alongside a main road to cross a huge bridge across a big canal, with huge barges on it. Away fro the main road more nice roadside trails led to another very fancy bridge over the Ijssel into Kampen. Found a Jumbo for supplies, then out of town, under a motorway to another big opening bridge over a huge canal. Down the side of the big canal for a while, then off into a forest to find a quiet farm campsite. A very wet windy day, but improved into the evening, fortunate as we had no choice but to cook our own food on the campsite here.
We are now skirting round the inland side of the Ijsselmeer, into an area with lots of bigger towns, motorways, and canals everywhere.

64km Total 1911km

Still some more to come.....

 

[Cathryn]

How are you still going? It sounds brutal!

 

[All uphill]

It goes on....

Tuesday 1st July – Day 43

Wittmund to Timmerl

Warm and sunny morning with no wind for a change. Away by 9.45, on good roadside trails, off our maps but good signposting. Rural roads then canalside trails. Hot and sunny, stopped for pastries then onwards to find a food shop at Grossfen. The last 10km was very hot so we had a few beers at the bar at the campsite, 35c today, but cooled a bit as we cooked our evening mael on the site.

38km Total 1711km

Wednesday 2nd July – Day 44

Timmerl to Bad Nieuwschans (NL)

Hot from the start today, good roadside trails, still off our map. Stop for pastries at Neermoor, then onwards through Leer, and back onto our map/guidebook. Leer was another attractive town. Out and over a large bridge over the river Emms. Down a riverside trail to Weener, then a mix of urban riding and across fields to Bunde where we found a Lidl for supplies. It was then on the road (cycle trail was closed) to the Netherlands border, where we were almost straight into the campsite. It was very hot and humid, but came on to rain later.

42km Total 1753km

Thursday 3rd July – Day 45

Bad Nieuwschans to Annerveenschekanaal

It was wet overnight, and we suffered a major invasion of slugs, Janet has a phobia of them, so it resulted in lots of shreiking! It was still very damp in the morning, so we packed away wet kit, wiping slug slime off stuff as we packed it. Cool and cloudy to start but gradually got sunnier and warmer as the day went on. We have a Falk Fietsatlas, rather old now as it's from our 2019 trip, but it shows all the cycle routes and Knoopunt number points, so we can easily navigate away from the maps of the coast route guidebook here, so we roughly planned a completely different route onwards where we had never been before. We followed good roadside trails to Winschopfen where we stopped for pastries, then dirt and grit trails cross country, then canalside trails into Veendam for a supermarket stop. Very devoius and winding route out of town round lakes and across canals, then a final canalside trail to a very quiet and secluded campsite by the canal. Reasonably fine weather so after pitching the camping kit was able to dry out.

48km Total 1801km

Friday 4th July – Day 46

Annerveenschekanaal to Appelscha

Warm, mainly sunny, but windy again. Nice trails across fields and through woodlands into Annen for pastries, then more nice riding, always with a headwind though. Through a large town, Assen, where we found a supermarket for supplies. Good trails led onwards, but a very strong headwind now. Reached Appelscha, a nice village, obviously popular with tourists, as there were loads of bars and restaurants, so we stopped at a bar for a beer. On though nice woodlands, then decided to stop early, as it was obviously a nice area. It was quite a posh holiday site, but a nice pitch, good facilities, and not too expensive. We had another beer sitting outside the site bar restaurant, but returned to our pitch to cook our supermarket supplies in warm sunshine on our sheltered pitch.

View attachment 785182

60km Total 1861km

Saturday 5th July – Day 47

Appelscha

A rest day. Cloudy, cooler, with a bt of light rain. Had a leisurely breakfast, risked a bit of essential washing. Rode into town for shopping, lunch etc. Discovered that here it was actually a National Park, hence it's popularity. Intermittent light rain, so back at the site we went to the restaurant for a nice evening meal.

6km Total 1867km

Sunday 6th July – Day 48

Appelscha to Giethoorn

A damp morning, dry enough for breakfast, but kit was wet for packing away. Nice forest trails through the National Park to start, then open farmland with nasty headwinds. A roadside trail led us into Steenwijk, now in heavy rain. We stopped at a Lidl for pastries and a bit of shelter, for lunch as well as elevenses, as no picnic lunch in the rain! Out of town open polders led us to Giethoorn, another tourist village, loads of canals full of boats, footpaths and cycle paths with no cars in the village at all. Busy, so we walked our bikes through perambulating tourist the last few hundred meters to the campsite, accessible only on foot/bike or by boat. It was raining steadily now, so when we were offered the use of a “Trekking Cabin” for not too much money we were quite happy!
It was torrential rain the rest of the afternoon, so after a couple of beers in a nearby cafe we were happy to return and cook dinner in a dry cabin.

52km Total 1917km

Monday 7th July – Day 49

Giethoorn to beyond Kampen


Good night's sleep in the hut, it rained all night, and was still raining in the morning, so it turned out that our choice of the cabin was a good one!
We were away, in the rain, by 10.00 following roadside trails southwards to Blauwe Hande, then west across a long causeway between lakes in a strong sidewind and driving rain. Stopped for pastries at Vollenhove, then across farmland to join a trail alongside a main road to cross a huge bridge across a big canal, with huge barges on it. Away fro the main road more nice roadside trails led to another very fancy bridge over the Ijssel into Kampen. Found a Jumbo for supplies, then out of town, under a motorway to another big opening bridge over a huge canal. Down the side of the big canal for a while, then off into a forest to find a quiet farm campsite. A very wet windy day, but improved into the evening, fortunate as we had no choice but to cook our own food on the campsite here.
We are now skirting round the inland side of the Ijsselmeer, into an area with lots of bigger towns, motorways, and canals everywhere.

64km Total 1911km

Still some more to come.....

I used to sail a dinghy from Blauwe Hand! Happy memories.

The wind in NL is worse than the hills in Devon

 

[RobinS]

It continues.....

Tuesday 8th July – Day 50


Near Kampen to Harderwijk


Rain all night, and at breakfast. Packed away very wet kit again and hit the road at 9.45. Cold, windy, and rain on and off. Across a big bridge to Elburg, then down to Nunkeet for pastries. Onwards to Harderwijk, searched out the Jumbo supermarket for supplies, then out of town, following devious, poorly signposted trails to a farm campsite. Briefly sunny, but more rain by dinnertime. Damp and miserable weather, everything damp after days of rain.


50km Total 2031km


Wednesday 9th July – Day 51


Harderwijk to Hilversum


Better weather by breakfast time, and packed and away by 9.30. Threatening rain, but holding off for a bit. Bankside trails, nice riding, lots of birdlife. Into Spakenburg for pastries. A market going on here. Out of town to Eemdijk, to a ferry across the Eems, then nice marshland trails towards Hilversum. Some tricky navigation, then into the city and through on somewhat busy and chaotic cycle routes. Found a supermarket, then on to a nice campsite just outside town through parkland. Pitched up and went to a bar/restaurant at a local aeroclub, and watched the gliders coming and going. A nice spot, and still sunny, so we decided to stay there for a nice meal. Remained dry all day.

56km Total 2087km

Thursday 10th July – Day 52


Hilversum to Nieuwveen


Warm and fine morning, our ptch was shady so stuff took a while to dry from the dew. Dry riding for a change, across causeways, then a small trail leading to a ferry – had to hail it from across a rather wide canal, soon came for us, and was again free! Then an underpass under a mainline railway, followed by an overpass over an eaight lane motorway. More nice waterside trails, then roadside trails into Mijdrecht where we found a supermarket. Onwards on roadside trails to Nieuwveen where we found the campsite. Pitched up, then rode back into town for a beer or two in a local bar. Finally back to the site for dinner.


50km Total 2137km


Friday 11th July – Day 53

Nieuwveen to Near Hazerswoude-Dorp


Nice weather in the morning after some overnight rain. A leisurely morning, departing at 10am. Back roads, then roadside trials next to a big canal to Alphen an den Rijn, through parkland into the centre and a pastry stop. Out through more parkland, then nice trails alongside a waterway across polders to Hazerwoude-Dorp. A small town, but it had a supermarket for supplies. Onwards across more polders to a farm campsite. We booked in here for two nights, as we had arranged our ferry for Sunday night, and all the campsites closer to Hook of Holland seemed to be fully booked for the Saturday night – most of the Netherlands and Germany are on school holidays now, so campsites very busy. A pleasant fine afternoon on the site, showers, washing etc, and cooking our own supplies as no other facilities here. We were camped alongside a drainage canal, and the frogs were decidedly noisy overnight.


28km Total 2165km


Saturday 12th July – Day 54


Hazerswoude-Dorp


A lazy day, long breakfast in warm sunshine. Rode into town for some shopping and a few beers in a local bar. Back to the site for dinner. Fine, but breezy all day.


10km Total 2175km


Sunday 13th July – Day 55


Hazerswoude-Dorp to Hoek van Holland


Away in good time after another very noisy frog night. Overcast but no rain. Nice riding across polders on good trails, then parkland into urban Delft. Out through more parkland, then onwards towards Hoek on fast roadside trails. Pastries and lunch from a Lidl on the edge of De Leer. Onwards into Hoek van Holland for afternoon beers, sitting outside in the sunshine until it was time check in for the ferry. Easy comfortable check-in and boarding this side the North Sea, cyclist given priority all the way, also boarding is early evening, so we could have a meal, and a couple of beers on board before retiring to our cabin as we left port.

48km Total 2223km


Monday 14th July – Day 56


We were docked before all the wake-up alarms were sounded, so got up and almost immediately disembarked and were off the ferry by 6.45. Typically on the British side cyclist were dodging in amongst cars and trucks to disembark, and were directed back over the very steep ramp! We were straight on the road towards Clacton (despite it being signposted as the North Sea Coast Route no cycle trails or concessions to cyclists here!). Dirty, scruffy surroundings, along a nasty narrow, busy B roads and terrible drivers. More unpleasant “close passes” on this stretch than in the whole trip abroad! We were in Clacton by 9.30, and soon picked up a hire van, loaded it up, and withing 3 hours were home.


30km Total 2253km

So, that it after 56 days on the road!

 

[RobinS]

So, a few notes about this tour, and if anyone has any questions fire away!

Weather! We realised this time, instead of heading south we were going north eastwards, so unlikely to get southern weather, but we were unprepared for just how bad it would be. It was particularly frustrating that while the UK, just across the North Sea was "suffering" heatwaves and droughts we were fighting howling gales and torrential rain. The winds were particularly difficult, strong on all bar three or four days, and nearly always against us!
The Trails - I think everyone is aware of the famous Dutch cycling infrastructure, but not everyone is aware that Germany is pretty much as good. Even away from International, National, and Regional cycle routes the roads between towns almost invariably have good separate cycle paths, so it's easy to get anywhere!
Food and shopping - The Netherlands and Germany are really good for small scale frequent food shopping. In France and the UK we tend to have big supermarkets, but in the Netherlands and Germany every small town, or even large village will have a smaller supermarket, in both countries food shopping is within cycling distance of where people live, there are often more bicycles parked outside supermarkets than cars. In the Netherlands there is still a pretty good supply of independent bakeries, selling excellent pastries, sausage roll, bread etc. These are less common in Germany, but the supermarkets all have in-store bakeries selling the same sort of stuff (though not as many good sausage rolls!).
Cooking and Gas - We generally cook for ourselves, though on this trip I got pretty fed up cooking in the rain, so we did eat out a fair bit. We take two stoves, which use the screw-in cartridges, but we have adaptors to enable us to use the old style piercable cannisters, the tall thin ones, and the camping gas click-fit. The click-fit is only really any use in France but the other two were useful, as in Netherlands and Germany gas is not as easily available as France, it's not normally for sale in supermarkets, so look out for camping shops or at campsite receptions.
Navigation and Communication - We have smartphones for communication, which we keep charged from powerpacks, which in turn we charge from solar panels on top of our rackbags. In the bad weather on this trip we did charge stuff once or twice from mains power, but in decent weather the solar meets all our needs. We navigated mainly using Bikeline guides to the Nort Sea Coast Route, but also have a rather out of date cycle route atlas of the whole of the Netherlands.
The Bikes - Rather old, decidedly battered. After being in storage for several years I should have overhauled them more thoroughly. Janet's brakes kept squeaking, as the calipers were knackered and wouldn't retract properly. My brifters are knackered, and after getting blown over my bike had a bent derailleur which didn't help with gearchanging! Both original front wheels the bearings were knackered, and my bottom bracket was grumbling by the end - apart from that they were fine!


If anyone has any more questions just ask away...