Exploring the Swiss Jura

[chriswoody]

The Swiss Jura region in the North West of Switzerland forms a natural border with France . It's a quiet area with steeply wooded valleys and amazing views over the high Alps, as well as stunning gravel roads. Biel/Bienne is in the South East of the region and the home of Rolex as well as DT Swiss and would normally be the start of this wonderful route, but I started in the quiet town of Tavannes on a stunning day of clear blue skies and hot sunshine.

Straight away I hit some problems, in order to reach the 6 km climb up the ridge above the town, I had linked together some tracks on the map, turns out though that these were walkers paths. The Swiss seem to be very particular about differentiating between walking and cycling, as I would discover a lot and the styles and gates are designed in such a way as to make it extremely difficult to get a bike through if it's a walkers only path. Looking at the map, I decided instead to take a less direct way up to the ridge line which would allow me to actually ride the bike. Finally settling into a rhythm I started to relax into the ride and my attention was captured by another oddity, I couldn't seem to get any fluid out of my drinks bladder. I have a 1.5 litre bladder in my frame bag, with a drinking hose and oddily it wasn't working. I decided to stop and see what the problem was and discovered a nightmare. Where the end of the pipe connects into the bladder, there is normally an O-Ring, expect mine was absent without leave and I hadn't noticed when I connected the pipe in the campsite. The result was 1.5 litres of water swimming around my frame pack, well at least I now know it's waterproof! Most of the contents of the bag was food and my mug/aeropress, however, the most stupid thing was, I'd put my power bank in there as well and it was now fried. Less than 2km into my tour and we had a big problem, I was relying on my electronics for navigation, but I had no way of recharging them now, so I would have to formulate a plan.

So after drying things out in the morning sun, it was back onto the bike and carry on the climb, hoping that all my problems were now behind me. I settled into the groove of the climb and soon the road gave way to gravel and the first views started to open up behind me. Over in the distance I could just make out Mount Chasseral and the large ariel on it's summit, this would be the high point on the last day, but for now I have lots of ground ahead of me.

After 6 km and 500m of height gain the route levels out and my lungs gain some respite, I ride around a corner of the trail and see the high Alps in the distance. I get off the bike and spend a while just looking in wonder at the view and feeling a huge sense of elation.

Back on the bike again the next 14 km are just sublime, riding along the ridge on the most amazing gravel roads. The whole ridge line is dotted with small farms and occasional cafes and the air is alive with the sound of cowbells. The fields are all surrounded by electric fences and I frequently stop to open gates or push through plastic batons that keep the way barred for the cows, but allow my passage.

All too soon the ridge ends and we start to plunge down towards the town of Court over 500m below. After a fast and jarring descent I roll into the edge of town and see a fountain bubbling with crystal clear water. I stop to not only replenish my water bottles, but the bladder as well. Whilst I can't use the hose anymore, the bladder itself is water tight, so I can at least still carry the full complement of water, which given the high temperatures I was experiencing, was a relief.

From Court it's a short road ride before a short gravel section, brings me to the town of Moutier and then it's straight back into climbing mode. The first part of the climb reminds me so much of the struggle coming out of Ambleside, the whole climb is steep and unrelenting for just over 6 km and 500m metres of height gain. All on roads this time and a combination of walking and riding saw me slowly grind my way to the top. This time, rather than a beautiful gravel ridge, it was a small hanging valley dotted with farms and fields that awaited me and then as I crested the last rise, I was plunging straight back downhill to the town of Courtételle. This route has no let up though, and after refilling my water bottles in the town fountain it was straight back to climbing mode. Not for the first time this tour, I was happy that I'd swapped out my chainring for a 28 tooth one, giving me a low climbing gear.

Up through the forest I climbed, whilst I would be again gaining over 500m, this time I would be doing it over 14 km, so a little easier than the earlier climbs. The temperature was hovering around 29 degrees and I was grateful to be climbing up through the trees, even so I was soaked in sweat.

At one point there is a break in the trees and I come out onto a panoramic view point and look out onto the plains below and the city of Delemont.

Onward I pressed as the afternoon wore on, I finally crested a rise and started to enter the last couple of kilometres. My destination today was the refuge de Cerneux, an open shelter on the hillside over looking a valley. The refuge has running water and even a toilet! I ate a meal of pasta and Pesto with pine nuts, fresh olives and sun dried tomatoes, before bedding down on the concrete floor of the main refuge. I'd managed to eke out the battery life of my Garmin and had 40% left for tomorrow, similliary, my phone had 70% left. We might just get away with this!

Overall today was 68km and just over 1800m of climbing, a tough first day but a really satisfying one.

 

[chriswoody]

Day Two

Breakfast of honey and waffles washed down with freshly brewed coffee from my Aeropress, gets me going and after packing its back to pushing the bike. I need to backtrack over two fields to get to the start of the day and in the first field, my way is blocked by the herd of cows that have been bothering me all night with their cowbells. Walking through the herd is a nerve racking experience as the cows take a more than usual interest in me and even act a little aggressively. After gaining the sanctuary of the other side it was on to the gravel trails and an enjoyable half an hour winding my way through a forest and out onto the hillside.

Crossing another field, a narrow path just before the gate finds another herd of cows who were looking spooked by my presence. I climbed the steep bank to the side of them, hauling the bike round and over to the gate. The other side finds an incredibly steep track on which there is no option but to push, thankfully it's only a few metres until we gain the ridgeline.

From here it's a lovely descent down to the Doubs river valley and the beautiful medieval town of Saint Ursanne which consists mainly of medieval edifices, burgher houses dating from the 14th through 16th century, and the impressive collegiate church that was built between the 12th and the 14th century.

I cross the bridge into town and stop here for a while exploring the streets and tiny passageways of this amazing old town.

After filling my bottles from the town fountain, I stop at the shop to get some baguette and cheese for lunch. I then ride on into the Doubs valley shadowing the river on sublime gravel tracks. The temperature is in the low thirties and the river is looking inviting. After a few kilometres a perfect little beach appears, populated by a couple of families. I stop for lunch and then a cooling swim in the cold river.

After a while it was time to move on and after the river there really was only one way to go and that's up. The trail is steep and unrelenting in the heat, gravel giving way to tarmac for a short stretch. I take a break under the eaves of a forest, looking back at my progress and contemplate the way forward.

I switch the Garmin off for a while to save my dwindling battery and settle back into the groove of climbing. After passing through one farmyard and onto the steep road beyond I start to get a sense of something wrong. I sit down on the road under the shade of a tree and switch my Garmin back on to try and get a sense of where I was. After a while, I'm having to face up to the reality that I've climbed to far on the wrong road and will need to descend back to a turning onto a track I'd missed below. Oh well, no need to get frustrated, just glad I'd noticed when I did. Correctly re-orientated I regain the correct track and head on. Finally 12 km and 500m higher, I topped out onto the plain above and some lovely gravel roads.

A few kilometres follow before one last steep push brings me out into the town of Saignelégier, on the other side of town is a lovely campsite in the woods and I check in for a relaxed night with a much needed warm shower. Food was a pan of couscous, cherry tomatoes and some veg washed down with a beer from the local micro-brewery in town.

I also asked the nice lady on reception to charge my Garmin and phone which had somehow managed to get through two days of navigating.

Overall today, it was 58 kilometres and 1194 metres of climbing.

 

[chriswoody]

Day Three.
Day three starts with more coffee and fresh croissants from the campsite, I then head out. The day starts with a short climb on some lovely gravel roads winding through fields and farmland. Unlike other days there are also other cyclists around enjoying the lovely riding around here.

A few kilometres into the day and my route turns off from the cycle ways and heads towards the highland lake of Etang de la Gruère. Unfortunately these are not official cycle trails, but walking trails and as such guarded by narrow kissing gates and stiles. I'm just glad that I'm bikepacking and my bike is light and narrow, it makes it much easier to get through the gates. Arriving at the lake the trail winds its way around and I push for the kilometre or so as I traverse the shore.

After the lake, the route carries on for a long while across bridleways and forest tracks, frustratingly stiles and gates are frequent and they are all narrow causing lots of slow progress as I haul the bike through it all.

Thankfully though it all comes to an end and we head out once more into gravel heaven, open roads weaving between fields and up towards the summit of the latest climb. There is no protection out here and with the temperatures in the low thirties it really is hard going in the heat. There seems to be an information trail that I'm following here, based on renewable energy, the fields all around are dotted with wind turbines and there are information boards all around.

As we top out the climb at 1200 metres high, there is a large solar farm and across the way I can now see Mount Chasseral really clearly. This will be my final summit tomorrow and it's good to see it so clearly, though between me and the summit I can see several valleys that I'll need to traverse first.

As well as the solar farm, there is also an observatory up here, I can imagine that there must be some amazing nights up here.

For now though it's back to descending over 400 metres through roads and gravel tracks in the forest. It's hard and unrelenting, though at times the odd sharp ascent catches me by surprise. At one point I see some random painted wooden signs hanging from a tree, I soon spy another and over the next kilometre or so there are random small pieces of art decorating the forest.

Finally the descent ends in the small hamlet of Renan, my first town for the day. My first priority is water, I've just drunk the last of it and need to fill up. The problem is that there is no where, the village fountain is completely dried up and all the shops are closed, there's not a soul to be seen. Looking around I spy what looks to be a fuel station, so I head down to see. There's nothing here but a couple of pumps and a small workshop, spying the mechanic I ask him if he has a tap I could use, he beckons me in and shows me to the grime covered sink where I gratefully fill up all my water bottles and prudently, I also fill up my water filter bottle, giving me an extra litre.

Leaving town, I faced with what can only be described as a brutally steep climb up through a forest. Lots of hike a bike on very tired legs as we wind our way up the climb. just over 300 metres of height gain in a little over 3 kilometres, I was just glad of the freshwater and the shade given by the trees. Topping out the climb, I was just over 1100 metres high and the countryside here was a lovely rolling area of green fields, copses and farms. I'd spied a potential wild camping place when planning at home and was really pleased to see it appear. Tucked a little away from the main path, it was not only flat, but also cow free! I gratefully stopped and settled in. Food tonight was a small cheat, I normally avoid freeze dried meals, but I had heard good things about Firepot meals and was willing to give it a shot, so my last Alpkit order included a pack of Orzo Pasta Bolognese, which turned out to taste really good.

Today was another long day in the saddle, but distance wise was only 51 kilometres with just over 1000 m of height gain.

 

[chriswoody]

Day Four

The last day started early, with the big climb up to Mount Chasseral ahead of me and temperatures of over 30 degrees expected, I thought it prudent to start early. After fresh coffee and honey soaked waffles it was down with the tent and onto the bike. The first kilometres are through the forest and downhill to the small hamlet of Le Pâquier.

Then it was onto the climb, which started steeply on a road past the small ski lifts. I nearly missed the water fountain because it was no longer running, but thankfully the trough underneath it was full. Aside from all the insects and mosquito larvae it was crystal clear, even so, after swishing aside a clear patch, I used my water filter to filter it through. Completely replenished I set off again. The road seems to be used as a timetrail destination, because it is festooned with graffiti and signs at the side of the road saying how far to go.

The roadhead was a small métairie (Mountain Restaurant), where not only did the road end, but the tree cover too. It was over a style and onto the open hillside, dotted with the occasional tree. The path was vague and faint, but it only went in one direction, up.

The going was hard and tough, more suited to a MTB than a gravel bike, but we made steady headway and I was just enjoying being out here. A short while later and we temporarily rejoin a track that leads up to another métairie where I take a short break, sadly it was closed, so I was unable to eat anything. Looking ahead I could see the trail steepened quite considerably and some more hike a bike would be called for.

After a short while of this, the trail I was to follow dived of to the right and into a section of narrow overgrown path through a dense patch of woodland. I lose a little height here and there and I was concerned that I was maybe going wrong, but a quick check of the map and I realised that we were contouring round under two minor fore peaks.

Suddenly the path ends at a gravel road and I re-mount and ride on past the most amazing looking wild camp spot. To my right the most amazing view opens up, I'd forgotten how high I was. Down in the valley below are the Beilersee and Lac de Neuchatel, the lakes near to Biel/Bienne, in the background the snow capped peaks of the high Alps can just be discerned in the haze.

Before long the end of the gravel road appears and my way ahead opens out in front of me. The gravel road ends at a junction with the tarmac road that winds its way up to the hotel at the top and on from there to the communications ariel that marks the very top of the mountain.

The road gradient is nowhere near as severe as I'd thought and we are soon winding are way to the very top and joining the few folk who'd already made it there this morning. The views were amazing and the weather sublime, I hung around by the hotel drinking in the view and trying to pick out parts of my route from the last days including the solar farm and the telescope.

It was then back on the bike and onto the communications tower which marked the very top of my route at 1598 metres high. I found a quiet spot and nestled in between the dried cowpats for some food and just savour the moment. I was awash with emotions, elation at having made it this far as well as a little melancholy that it was almost over. I lingered for an age, the fantastic weather meaning I was in no rush to leave. Eventually I get back on and point my wheels back down the slope which descends the North side of the mountain.

The next kilometres are a wonderful mix of riding, from road to technical single track, to gravel trails. The descent has it all and I reflect on how the whole ride today has featured such an amazing mix of trails, it really was a perfect day out. The descent was not completely straightforward though, there were many junctions and changes of direction that required concentration and focus, I couldn't just let it all hang out for the 15km of downhill.

Eventually I arrived into the town of Sonceboz-Sombeval and the heat was really oppressive, I found myself looking enviously at the swimming pools in gardens and wishing I could dive on in! I was only a few kilometres from the finish in Tavannes now, but this region is far from flat and there was one last hill to crest. Mentally and physically it was hard going, the sun was now merciless and luckily it was not only a good gravel trail, but under tree cover as well. I would pick a patch of shade up ahead, ride to it and take a short break. I kept repeating this over and over until eventually I crested the summit and we were done. One last short downhill, under the famous limestone arch and into Tavannes for an ice cold drink and ice cream.

Today was the shortest day, but also the hardest, just 36 kilometres and 1056 metres of height gain.

Overall it was an amazing four days of riding and hike a biking, through some stunning scenery and sublime trails. Aside from a few tourist hot spots, there was barely a soul to be seen. The hill climbing was tough, especially for someone who lives on the Northern German plain! I'm just glad I'd changed the gearing on my bike so I was running a 28 tooth chainring married to a 10 - 42 cassette, which gave me a really good range of gears for this route.

Overall I rode 204 kilometres with an overall height gain of 5036 metres in four amazing days.

 

[IaninSheffield]

Great account Chris, thanks. What a stunning part of the world! Can I ask what drew you to this little corner, over and above other possible destinations, given you live much further north? How did you unearth such a gem?

 

[ianrauk]

Thanks @chriswoody , what a great read.
I've cycled over the Juras from Switzerland to France a couple of times. Its a stunning part of the world.

 

[bluenotebob]

I really enjoyed reading about your trip @chriswoody - and some great photos. Thanks for taking the time to post it all

 

[Ming the Merciless]

I stayed on the French side in 2017 for a couple of weeks. Had my Brompton with me. Lovely area to explore and often bypassed for the taller Alps.

 

[chriswoody]

Thanks Everyone.

@IaninSheffield Last year my touring was in Northern Germany and whilst it was great to explore my adopted country, I really felt the need to get away further this year. After spending the best part of twenty years living and working in the British mountains, I also have a strong affinity for mountainous regions, the problem is that a lot of these places are often far too technical riding for my bike, so when I discovered this route it was ideal. A large hilly region, with hundreds of kilometers of gravel roads that ended on the top of a mountain. As Ming mentions above, it is also an area that is often bypassed for the taller Alps, which only made it more appealing to me.

The route was initially developed in 2020 by two cyclists who lived locally and because of Corona virus, were looking for routes that were remote and quiet. It uses a lot of existing Mountain Bike trails in the area, but also interweaves other points of interest along the way. It was promoted on some social media outlets as well as bikepacking.com.

 

[IaninSheffield]

Thanks Chris. Always helpful to see what factors help folks choose a region and routes.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Thanks @chriswoody , that was a great write up! And thanks for giving the source of your inspiration.

I think there's going to be ever increasing conflict with people taking bikes on paths that are traditionally for walkers. It was becoming an issue in NL before I left. It seems the Swiss are on top of it already. I do recall seeing dedicated paths for rollerblades/ rollerskaters when I was there.

Sorry, as always I have a couple of questions
First of all - what are these breakfast waffles of which you speak? They sound delicious!
I may have asked you before but how did you manage that shot of the bike standing? I can't see any stand.
Logistics: How did you get there and back?

As regards the leaky bladder I'm glad to see that I'm not the only disastrous bike tourist! . I managed to cook my Wahoo

Thanks again for the write up. It's great to read something so different from, yet similar to what I do.

 

[chriswoody]

Hi @HobbesOnTour , now the secret of the self standing bike, well I'm sorry, but to let you into that secret you need to be a fully paid up hipster and use all the modern bikepacking lingo you know!

Actually it's nothing more than a stick wedged under the far pedal! Zoom in and look closely and you'll see it by the rear wheel rim.

The waffles are nothing special, just ordinary, pop in the toaster, breakfast waffles that we get here in the German supermarket:

Bit of a git to carry actually, but they make a nice light breakfast with honey or jam washed down with freshly brewed coffee.

The footpath issue is an interesting one really, I know on social media there is a bit of a debate about footpaths with regards this route as well as many others. I only actually encountered footpath issues twice, one of which was my fault as I tried to get to the start of the route and not realising I'd planned it to traverse public footpaths. The only other issue was around the lake at Etang de la Gruère. There is no other way of reaching this lake other than on footpaths. The first kilometre to the lake over fields was deserted and I rode what I could, but the kilometre or so around the shore had a few folk so I pushed for the entirety of the section and was as courteous as possible. After this, there were a few more kilometers of footpaths through fields and woodland, but as before, this was completely deserted so I rode these sections.

Interestingly there were signs on other parts of the route, including the lake shore path of Etang de la Gruère, clearly telling you whether cycling or wild camping was permissible. On the section of the route through the forest and fields, there were no signs, just the awkward gates, so there was nothing explicitly stating that these were purely walking paths. Personally, I don't feel routes like this have enough traffic to really cause issues and as long as Cyclists continue to show courtesy and respect to other uses then there shouldn't be an issue, however, where at all possible it would be better to avoid footpaths and I do feel having rode it, that these route designers have done their utmost to avoid footpaths.

I actually drove down to Switzerland in the end. I did try my level best to find public transport, but the night train that traverses Germany was not running in July, the only month I could go, due to work and family. I did agonise a lot about the drive, but I helped salve my conscience a little by bringing some friends to and from Frankfurt for the Eurobike show being as I was driving past.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

Thanks for the detailed reply

you need to be a fully paid up hipster and use all the modern bikepacking lingo you know!

Another language?? They can feck right off!

Actually it's nothing more than a stick wedged under the far pedal!

I think you mentioned that trick before. I can't see that detail on my phone. It looks really great!

just ordinary, pop in the toaster, breakfast waffles

Ah yes! I do like them!

as long as Cyclists continue to show courtesy and respect to other uses then there shouldn't be an issue,

And that's the nub in everything and everywhere.
Those stand on electric scooters are banned (or were) in NL but they're everywhere here mixing in bike paths and roads without any friction. A bit of common sense and respect goes a long way.

I actually drove down to Switzerland

Sorry! I wasn't trying to question any environmental attitudes but I think the logistics can be an important part of any tour, especially a foreign one. It can help others figure out what's possible.

Frankfurt ............. as I was driving past.

Ha!
My last ever speeding ticket (in a car) was passing by Frankfurt
I got a late "holiday photo" a couple of months after I got home - hopefully you won't

Great write up, excellent pics. And thanks for all the extra info.

 

[cwskas]

Great writeup, beautiful scenery.

It appears that you are using a Brooks saddle? Is that correct? How long have you used it and opinions?

Thanks,

Willie

 

[chriswoody]

Thanks Willie.

Good spot on the saddle, it is a Brooks, however, not a leather one. It's the Brooks C17 Cambium, a sort of flexible rubber saddle.

As I've got older my body has become less tolerant of discomfort and I was starting to get really uncomfortable on long rides, I became quite saddle sore on my trips in 2021 and started to look into changing the saddle. The Brooks was getting a lot of positive reviews and I decided to look into it, it's quite a wide saddle and after measuring my sit bones, decided it would probably fit me and I bought it in Autumn 2021.

It's quite unusual when you first sit on it, it has no give whatsoever, it feels like sitting on concrete. The genius though is in the way it's built, the rubber top is suspended like a hammock on the frame and it flexes and deforms gently as you ride, providing a kind of rudimentary suspension.

I've actually stopped wearing padded liner shorts under my baggy MTB shorts and now just wear thin Merino wool boxer shorts under the MTB shorts and I couldn't be comfier. I rode two big tours this year and had zero pain or discomfort, I can easily spend 12 hour days in the saddle and get up the next day and do it all again. As I wrote above, Switzerland was very hot and sweaty, but again I couldn't have been comfier, so whilst it won't be for everyone, I absolutely love it and I've bought a second one for the Mountain bike, it wasn't cheap, but worth every penny in my book.