I have heard many rules on how handlebars should be set up, including the ramp and the top of the hood must be level, or the levers' face should be vertical, or the drops should point at a straight line to the rear wheel axle, or they should be level, etc. Imho there is no reason why one shouldn't be open minded and to try them, but like the knee over pedal spindle rule, rational explanation as to why they are right is scarce. The challenge is not helped by the fact that we all ride in different positions in relation to the handlebars, and we all have different physiques and flexibility.
What adds to the challenge, is like saddles and helmets, different drop handlebars can and do have dramatically different characteristics. For example, the drop can vary easily by 40mm between deep drop models and compact versions, they can have very different reach or ramp length (the bit behind the hood), the hook comes in various shapes influencing wrist angle and grip, and which drives the orientation of the bottom of the drops. Further levers don't all have the same geometry. Each of these features could be a pain or a god-send depending on whether they are suited to how one rides and what one needs. If adjustment can not deliver what one wants, I think one might have to work out what features are needed and identify what is available in the market from that.
From what the OP describes regarding his wrist angle, and I am only guessing here, it is possible that the hook needs to be rounder for him, i.e. from the existing (Kona Sweeper?):
to perhaps something more like
Are the cheapo Puch Free Spirit 10's handlebars like that? If they have been perfect, why not make some measurements and recreate the handlebar (and perhaps bike) fit on the Kona?
first time I got the levers as I wanted them and then took it to LBS to apply bar tape. I've taped them up myself since then, especially as I was messing about with stems and found I needed to tweak lever position at the same time.
