Fitting new cassette and chain

[redcard]

Picked up a 105 cassette and chain to replace my 2010 Ultegra gear. I believe it's a like for like replacement. Picked go a chain tool, but need to get the tool to remove the old cassette.

Any tips for doing this? Is it a job for a noob, or should I take it to the LBS? Is it fairly easy to index the gears once fitted?

Will have a browse around YouTube also.

 

[cyberknight]

With the chain you need to measure the new one against the old one and allow for chain stretch or count the links , best to use a quick link to install the new one as its a lot quicker and theres no mucking about with the chain tool to ensure the joining link is not too tight.
Make sure when you install the chain you route it properly round the jockey wheels and front mech , says the voice of someone whos done both wrong

 

[jdtate101]

Easy as pie, just need a chain whip tool and the shimano cassette tool (used with a socket wrench), take 5mins to swap them over. Just make sure you use the tiny spacer (like a very thin washer) on the spidle or your cassette will rattle when done up. Your existing ultegra should have it already if it's 10 speed. Once fitted do it up reasonably tight, and spin it to make sure it's level and stable. Give it a yank to make sure none of the cogs move, and re-fit the wheel.

As for the chain, get some KMC 10-speed missing links, makes chain removal easy for maintenance and cleaning.

 

[redcard]

Thanks for the replies.

Off to Evans this morning, so just to confirm, I need a chain whip, one of these http://www.evanscycles.com/products/park/cassette-remover-hyperglide-ec005476#features , and a regular wrench or socket wrench that I'll get in any DIY store?

 

[Arjimlad]

When I got the shimano cassette tool I also got a larger adjustable spanner to use with it.

I watched a bike shop mechanic swap a cassette around. He put the wheel up on his tummy, holding it horizontal.

He put one tool on the cassette at about 4 o'clock and the other at 8 o'clock and pushed them together towards 6 o'clock, if you see what I mean. I think the chain whip would have been the tool in his left hand...anyway, I copied him when I last took my cassette off & it was really easy.

 

[Rob500]

Hi Redcard.
You'll have no problem doing that job. Even I was able to do the exact same thing at the start of October and I've hands like feet.
Tools for me where: Chainwhip. Cassette lockring tool. Adjustable spanner. For the chain, at first, I used a Shimano Pin but changed to a KMC link as it was so much easier.
Good luck with it.

Edit: Forgot: I also used my chain breaker tool.

 

[redcard]

I put on the new chain. The cassette can wait until the weekend. I used the pin that came with the chain, but managed to snap it, or maybe I put it in back-to-front. Anyway, I used a pin from the spare piece of chain instead. Not sure if this is advisable or not. Can anyone confirm? I rode 50 yards up the street and things seem to be ok.

It seems the problem I had with the chain jumping was due to the front chainring, as it only jumps on the lower ring. The larger ring seems fine. Guess it's just wear n tear as I hardly use the larger ring. Can anyone advise if I need a chainset (Ultegra is £150!), or just an inner chainring at £30ish?

 

[Rob3rt]

If the chainrings are worn, buy chainrings.

 

[redcard]

Wasn't sure what I needed, and was confused by the huge price discrepancy.
i take it replacing the inner chainring is relatively straight forward?

 

[Rob500]

Redcard. How long / how many miles was on the old chain and cassette? If the old chain was stretched and caused some wear on the cassette then using a new chain on the cassette won't be good for it I imagine.

 

[Rob3rt]

Wasn't sure what I needed, and was confused by the huge price discrepancy.
i take it replacing the inner chainring is relatively straight forward?

Yes it is straightforward, you will need a hex key and a big flat head screw driver (or chainring bolt screwdriver/tool depending on the length of the chainring bolts - the proper tool has a slot in the middle).

You should be able to get Ultegra grade chainrings for a reasonable price. You can always look at stronglight etc. The only big thing you need to know is the bcd of your chainset, compacts are 110 bcd, standard doubles are 130 bcd.

 

[Rob500]

Hold back buying a new chainring until you've put the new cassette on an reindexed your gears if needed.

 

[redcard]

Redcard. How long / how many miles was on the old chain and cassette? If the old chain was stretched and caused some wear on the cassette then using a new chain on the cassette won't be good for it I imagine.

Not sure exactly. I got the bike second hand in August, and I've done 2,000 miles since then. Bike was in top nick when I first got it, though I hardly knew what to look for regarding wear and tear etc. I've not looked after the bike well over the winter. The chain and cassette were almost black until they both got a thorough degreasing last weekend.

I'll change the cassette at the weekend. Hopefuly 40ish commuting miles won't do the chain too much damage.

 

[totallyfixed]

I would be more than a bit surprised if your old cassette is functioning ok with the new chain but your chainring isn't. I have done 33,000 miles on just one chainring and used 4 sprockets I think and it does get used in pretty poor conditions. Cassettes are made of cheese these days, a bit like Look cleats.

 

[redcard]

Hold back buying a new chainring until you've put the new cassette on an reindexed your gears if needed.

Even though the chain only jumps on the larger ring?