Fixed front wheel replacement

[bonker]

I've noticed the wear line of the front wheel of my Bowery has disappeared.

Is there any reason why I can't replace it with a road bike wheel with a quick release skewer I have in the shed?​

 

[black'n'yellow]

no reason I can think of...

 

[4F]

None whatsoever.

 

[fossyant]

No reason, but odd wheels are for hipsters only

 

[I like Skol]

.......noticed the wear line of the front wheel of my Bowery has disappeared........​

And why do you want to replace it? In my experience rims should be used until the rim wall starts to deform at the thinnest point which will be obvious when applying the brakes. Anything more frequent than this, i.e following the manufacturers recomendations, will result in scrapping rims that have plenty of useable life in them. Don't forget, they (the rim manufacturers) have a vested interest in getting you to replace rims/wheels more often...... £££££profit!

 

[bonker]

You're talking my language there.

 

[andrew_s]

In my experience rims should be used until the rim wall starts to deform at the thinnest point which will be obvious when applying the brakes.

By the time you feel a pulsing from the brakes, the rim has already started to crack. Once the crack grows beyond a certain size, the whole flange will suddenly unzip and the tube will explode. This may not be healthy if it happens at the wrong time, to say nothing about sharp bits of rim flailing about. It's not a case of feel the pulsing and then start thinking about getting a new wheel; it's a case of reduce the tyre pressure and ride directly home, avoiding the use of the brake on that wheel.
I'm also aware of a couple of riders who've had a wheel explode at home without having noticed anything when out on the road.

The alternative is to keep checking the rim thickness at intervals (gauge). Those rims I've had fail have done so at about 0.7mm when checked afterwards. The normal recommendation is to get a new rim/wheel when the thickness goes below 1mm.

 

[Andy_R]

By the time you feel a pulsing from the brakes, the rim has already started to crack. Once the crack grows beyond a certain size, the whole flange will suddenly unzip and the tube will explode. This may not be healthy if it happens at the wrong time, to say nothing about sharp bits of rim flailing about. It's not a case of feel the pulsing and then start thinking about getting a new wheel; it's a case of reduce the tyre pressure and ride directly home, avoiding the use of the brake on that wheel.
I'm also aware of a couple of riders who've had a wheel explode at home without having noticed anything when out on the road.

The alternative is to keep checking the rim thickness at intervals (gauge). Those rims I've had fail have done so at about 0.7mm when checked afterwards. The normal recommendation is to get a new rim/wheel when the thickness goes below 1mm.

+1, especially on a front wheel.

 

[Vapin' Joe]

You're talking my language there.

While eating through a straw when the rim gives way.

 

[I like Skol]

By the time you feel a pulsing from the brakes, the rim has already started to crack. Once the crack grows beyond a certain size, the whole flange will suddenly unzip and the tube will explode. This may not be healthy if it happens at the wrong time, to say nothing about sharp bits of rim flailing about. It's not a case of feel the pulsing and then start thinking about getting a new wheel; it's a case of reduce the tyre pressure and ride directly home, avoiding the use of the brake on that wheel.
I'm also aware of a couple of riders who've had a wheel explode at home without having noticed anything when out on the road.

The alternative is to keep checking the rim thickness at intervals (gauge). Those rims I've had fail have done so at about 0.7mm when checked afterwards. The normal recommendation is to get a new rim/wheel when the thickness goes below 1mm.

Perhaps this is a difference between MTB/commuter bikes and road bikes that run at higher pressures (~100psi). All the rims I have worn out (and there have been a few) have been Mavic MTB rims that I tend to run at around 45-55psi and they have never failed spectacularly as you describe above. I still stand by my assumption that any manufacturers wear indicators for rim wall wear will be extravagantly pessimistic about the remaining life of the rim. I guess it falls to personal judgement whether or not you are confident in making that call yourself or relying on the indicator groove. Just don't expect your rims to disintigrate the instant the indicator is gone.

 

[bonker]

I've had a look and there's loads of material left. I have no desire to ride paper thin wheels so I'll change it soon.

 

[bonker]

This is the danger of looking after your bike. I cleaned it on Father's Day and so far I have discovered I need a new front wheel and now a saddle.

 

[andrew_s]

I still stand by my assumption that any manufacturers wear indicators for rim wall wear will be extravagantly pessimistic about the remaining life of the rim. I guess it falls to personal judgement whether or not you are confident in making that call yourself or relying on the indicator groove. Just don't expect your rims to disintigrate the instant the indicator is gone.

I do agree with you, and used to push my rims as far as possible in the days before wear indicators. However, with road bike tyre pressures at least, if you go past the groove you do have to keep checking your rims regularly rather than relying on your brakes giving you a reminder.
Other than a gauge (which means removing the tyre), the earliest indication is the top of the rim bending outwards under tyre pressure. The increased curve this gives to the originally flat braking surface is quite easy to feel with a finger & thumb grip, once you've a little experience, or alternatively you could make a note of the outside rim width of a new rim with a pair of calipers, and retire the rim once it's increased by more than 0.6 or 0.8mm or so.

 

[HLaB]

bonker, I was asking similar a while back. Lawyers Lips was the response; its the raised bits on the fork drop outs which stop the QR coming out quickly (kinda defeats the purpose ). Some fixed fork drop outs don't have them but they're a bit belts & braces to protect the incompetent to reduce their need to sue and if you've done up you're QR right they are not needed.