Fixing punctures on e-bikes - is it a problem?

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Location
Widnes
Word of warning

our folder has different nuts on the front and back wheels so you need different spanners for each

I presume this is due to the hub motor on the back

but it does mean you need extra tools in your bag which comes as a bit of a surprise when you get a flat on the road and only have the one you used last time which is - naturally - for the other wheel!!

so - just basically - have a go on both n a sunny in the back garden before you go on a long ride in the rain!
 
There's an image on the Tenways help page showing the cable location - it appears to be partly hidden within the chainstay, but is easily exposed for disconnection simply by pulling it out a bit so it's not as difficult as the linked review implies.
View attachment 796002

You have to remove a cover to get to that stage:
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACd2eTtzzVc
 
Location
Widnes
People say "get decent puncture resistnt tyres"

Yes - help a lot

but the last puncture I had was a 3 inch screw then managed to to got right through the side wall and out the other side

Only the Gods know how that managed to happen on a canal path but there you go

and no puncture resistant tyre would have stopped it

unless you have those inserts - but rumour has it that the feel is rubbish

One year I did check my tyres and remove 7 thorns and 2 slivers of metal from them - none had caused a problem in the Marathons
 

albion

Guru
Location
Gateshead
Actually, kevlar amd other materials are stronger than steel. My tyres are quite heavy and certainly seem thorn and glass proof.
It is hard to avoid glass here plus I always seem to pass farmers hedge cutting.
Lighter tyres do not use kevlay protection on sidewalls.

Some tyres claim 'steel puncture protection' but maybe that is simply the Chinese use term for the aramid type materials used. The material no doubt just needs to be the correct thickness for 'steel' protection.
 
Location
Loch side.
Actually, kevlar amd other materials are stronger than steel. My tyres are quite heavy and certainly seem thorn and glass proof.
It is hard to avoid glass here plus I always seem to pass farmers hedge cutting.
Lighter tyres do not use kevlay protection on sidewalls.

Some tyres claim 'steel puncture protection' but maybe that is simply the Chinese use term for the aramid type materials used. The material no doubt just needs to be the correct thickness for 'steel' protection.

That old Kevlar vs Steel comparison is BS. Strength isn't equal to strength unless you know what you're comparing. There's compressive, tensile, torsional and bending strength. Weight for weight, Kevlar outperforms steel only in tensile strength and tensile strength is not what you're after when providing puncture protection.

Since puncture protection is the issue, let's consider this little thought experiment.

Take a small sheet of CroMo steel, say, 6 inches by six inches and about 0.3mm thick. Weight is about 250g.

Now take a similar size sheet of woven kevlar (weft and weave, which is the only way to get a flat surface with Kevlar since it is a fibre) which equates to 7.7mm in thickness. Place the steel sheet/tile on your thigh and stab it with an awl. using X Force. How safe did you feel?
Now stab, with the same force, the kevlar sheet with an awl. Do you think the awl will penetrate? Yes it will, because tensile strength does not prevent sharp objects from finding a pathway between woven fibres.

When penetrative forces are considered, steel is superior to kevlar by a big factor.

Kevlar is an excellent replacement for steel beads in tyres but a poor puncture protector and a leads to high rolling resistance.

Both Kevlar and its derivative (often used in tyres) Vectran, can be formed in almost monolithic sheets but even so, it is more like felt or paper, not uniform like steel or glass. Penetration is always a problem for these "strong" materials because they only offer tensile strength. Penetration is prevented by hardness, compressive strength, density, work hardening, plastic deformation and load spreading.

Puncture protection in tyres is purely a function of material thickness and it matters very little what that material is. All , tough, pliable materialswill work but they increase rolling resistance massively. A very good example of that is a PVC liner. Excellent at preventing punctures because the material is thick and tough. But damn, does it make pedalling difficult!
 

albion

Guru
Location
Gateshead
I used kevlar as a generic term. Only so called 'premium tyres' pay for kevlar, though 'aramid' will have similar properties.
My tyres apparently use a patented polyester belt. Whatever, they work incredibly well for me.
 

froze

Veteran
I'm 74 years old; I've been doing this method of tube repair since I was 8 years old...whenever possible, and most of the time it is possible.

All you do is remove about half of the bead on one side of the tire with the hold in the middle of that section. Then pull out about a fourth of the tube with the hole in the center of that section. Do the usual patch method and put it back together again. With this method most of the time you don't have to remove the wheel off the bike.

I would say about 75% of the time I can find the hole in the tire that the leak came from.

This method was taught to me by a 50ish year-old neighbor back when I was 8 years old, and he told me that's how most people fixed their flats. It is now a lost "art", when I show people how to do this, they are astonished.

Regardless, it is wise to know how to remove the wheel off of an E-Bike while on the road so you can fix the flat.
 
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