One would assume it is because bending stresses are higher the closer to the centre of the bars that you get - therefore an increased diameter/more metal is prudent - or it could be just that they are prettier than straight bars
Flat bars - how wide are yours
- Thread starter psmiffy
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One would assume it is because bending stresses are higher the closer to the centre of the bars that you get - therefore an increased diameter/more metal is prudent - or it could be just that they are prettier than straight bars
ditto - but only 25mm off each side - giving me now 670mm outside of bar end to bar end - first impressions is it looks more compact - not so gangly somehow - proof of the pudding is in the riding tho - major plus is that I can now get the bike through the front door without any faff
Pale Rider
Legendary Member
One would assume it is because bending stresses are higher the closer to the centre of the bars that you get - therefore an increased diameter/more metal is prudent - or it could be just that they are prettier than straight bars
I reckon it's a mixture of both.
Presumably a tapered bar is a bit lighter than an equivalent plain gauge one.
I agree with @Blue Hills, bolting junk, I mean essential cycling accessories, to a tapered bar can be difficult.
- Location
- London
thanks psmiffy - I thought it might be to do with bonkers ideas about weight saving. Sod pretty, I have some bars that are short on space for mounting stuff and the taper makes bits of the remaining bar pretty useless for mounting stuff. So then of course you have to bolt a somewhat heath robinson affair to the bars to get a mount!
I like a bit of junk on my handlebars to the extent that on my touring bike I have junk extenders - when i get round to it the other bike is going to get a set of straight bars as well
- Location
- London
essential - 2 front lights (one a commuter flasher, the other a country lane light) , a bell, a garmin or speedo of some sort. I had to fit an extender to my new expedition bike just to get that on.
A minoura thing I had which itself had trouble getting fixed onto the bars because of the taper. Now replaced with something slimmer and simpler (and cheaper) from China which I can provide a link for if folk are interested.
More Heath-psmiffy than Robinson
The Minoura thing works brilliantly on the straight bars - better than the old version
- Location
- London
Which one do you mean?
My two work fine - very solid - but the band that fastens it to the bars is wider than my chinese cheapo and it is an overcomplicated design with several bits fastened together and hence (though I have had no trouble with either of mine) potential for bolts coming loose. At least one of mine also uses two screw-heads, one of which has worn. Chinese cheapo uses a single hex bolt.
edit:
Here it is:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/371663150177?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&var=640654455498&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX
TThee are also longer versions with two slim mounts to the bars though I haven't used one of those.
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- Location
- London
yes that is better than the old design - I have two different sizes of it.
Practical Cycles in Lytham also stock some interesting Minoura "junk fixers"
Practical Cycles in Lytham also stock some interesting Minoura "junk fixers"
Cubist
Still wavin'
- Location
- Ovver 'thill
The bars on my Ibis are 0.00387735 furlongs wide.
Beebo
Firm and Fruity
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- Hexleybeef
Sorry, I only work in leagues.
Too wide to go through a standard front door?
Cubist
Still wavin'
- Location
- Ovver 'thill
Ok, 0.000140389 nautical leagues
Cubist
Still wavin'
- Location
- Ovver 'thill
If it's a standard 36 inch door, there'd be 0.00066809698 furlongs of clearance.
(2.78374E-5 leagues)
