Freewheel

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Location
Loch side.
I think that is what I have done, earlier replies mention 1/4" ball bearings where in my case they are tiny about 3mm . As I cannot send a pic. Do you think I have got sprockets off and left behind the "flange" that screws onto the wheel?

Curlycomber
Yes. But now you have a problem. As Ajax says, a new wheel may be the quickest option. The problem is that the part that's left behind is made from hardened steel and it screws onto an aluminium hub (really, really, really tightly) and can only be taken off with the huge leverage and a special tool. You can attempt to grind the remainder of the freewheel off, but it requires skill and care.

Still, a photo would be nice. Can you not post one on Photobucket and post a link?
 
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OP
OP
C

curlycomber

Regular
Location
West Sussex
New wheel is the way to go. Is Wiggle the best? Do I just order the correct wheel size with a 7 speed cassette? Thanks all, much appreciated Curlycomber
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
You need a 622-15or17 rear wheel with freehub and QR axle - wiggle not necessarily best and depends on budget. You need a 7 speed cassette - like this one (this is 12-28; best guess you have 12-26 at present):
https://www.decathlon.co.uk/12x28-7...html?msclkid=1ff0bc5593211f7f8bc7e2d5621382a4
Try asking on the components thread ref wheel but bear in mind the bike, in a state fit to ride, is only worth £100 max.
https://www.cyclechat.net/forums/components-accessories-clothing.75/ for wheel recommends, or maybe use 'Wanted' sub-forum:
https://www.cyclechat.net/forums/wanted.22/
 
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cyberknight

As long as I breathe, I attack.
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cyberknight

As long as I breathe, I attack.
Doesn't need one for putting the cassette on and should be good for 5000km. I note OP is already replacing the chain. Seek advice on spacers which might be needed with a 7 speed cassette on whatever freehub the bought wheel has.
I havent worked out if the OP has a cassette or freewheel :smile: for freewheel he does
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
for freewheel he does [need a chain whip]
Why? Screw it on, fit and tighten with force via chain and cranks.
OP's current wheel 'clearly' has a freewheel (in bits). Would you recommend they procure a replacement with a freewheel and block; or one with a freehub and cassette?
 
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cyberknight

As long as I breathe, I attack.
Why? Screw it on, fit and tighten with force via chain and cranks.
OP's current wheel 'clearly' has a freewheel (in bits). Would you recommend they procure a replacement with a freewheel and block; or one with a freehub and cassette?
It seems like you are determined to pick an argument so I will no longer continue with this thread as it seems you have taken exception to me ,I don't need to be bullied
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Think you're mistaking 'picking an argument' with 'disagreeing with you and saying why'. I have tried to help the OP. And so did you: your Decathlon link to a freewheel hubbed wheel and freewheel 7sp block was good, and maybe a better option than a freehub and cassette.
 
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gbb

Legendary Member
Location
Peterborough
Assuming OP has all the parts still, re-assemble it. I did this as a maybe 11 yo kid, I assume OP has undone the two pin ring that holds it all together, I used to use a mail and hammer, hardly ideal but it's what you do when you dont know better lol. Lay the wheel flat, clean it all, smear a ring of grease where the balls go, carefully place the bearings in the grease (two seperate rings of them iirc) the carefully locate the two together, screw on the ring then tighten it with whatever you used to undo it.
Quite do-able, if I could do it as a kid with no instruction, someone with mechanical ability should be able to too.

Of course OPs freewheel has had it but it's worth knowing for anyone who's freewheel is sticky etc
 
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