Freezing cables!

[BlackPanther]

The last time that it dropped below -2, my left disc cable, and front mech cable froze (they both loop downwards). I cleaned/lubed, both cables but today, exactly the same thing happened! I have some spare decent quality cables and plan to replace them (maybe they're budget oe cables fitted to the Catrike?) Or am I missing some other way to stop them freezing up.

I tried the Trice brakes/gears this morning, they were fine!

 

[cyberknight]

Replace the inners and outers, i used to suffer with this every year till i replaced them both.

 

[BlackPanther]

Replace the inners and outers, i used to suffer with this every year till i replaced them both.

That's my plan for this weekend. Just wondered if there was a miracle cure.

 

[jayjay]

Had my first freezing trike cable on Wednesday evening; I was half expecting it. These are new (1700 miles) cables but a run and design which is prone to picking up water. Tomorrow I will be pulling the cables and fitting some rain gear to them both.

 

[Tigerbiten]

I had an interesting ride today as my brakes where freezing in the on position.

With hydraulic brakes my pipes cannot freeze, unless its silly cold, but get a bit of water in the calipers and the pistons can get frozen in place.
Due to fog over the last couple of days that happened today, as it never got above zero here.
There's enough force when pulling the brake lever to break the ice lock on the pistons, so the brakes worked after a fashion.
They pulled on but then instantly refroze in the on position.
The only why to get them to release was to keep cycling, at around 3-4 mph, until the friction from the brakes had warmed them up enough to melt the ice.
It was taking around 500-600 yards for this to happen each time I used the brakes.

I would have used my back brake for stopping but I found the cable working that had frozen the first time I tried it ..........

I had quite a workout just going to the shops and back .........

 

[GrasB]

If the lowst point of the cable isn't a cable end then you're going to get frozen cables unless you fill the outer with something that doesn't freeze. Best thing I've found is aerosol silicone grease.

Block one end of your outer off with some insulation table & remove the ferrule from the other end of the cable. Use the aerosol can to fill the outer with the grease. Clean up the cable & put the ferrule back on. Now feed the inner through the outer until it gets stuck against the blocked end. Route the cable as close to it's final resting place as possible then unblock the end & re-attach the cable.

 

[jayjay]

Cables serviced. They detach easily from Ice drum brakes. Water was in the right "U" noodle. Cables are Jagwire and were clean, unfrayed. They now have heatshrink tubing on the cable end of the noodle, bottom open to let anything dribbly out. I put an AVID cable boot on the top of the cable adjuster which was quite wide and inviting water to enter. The boot is meant to fit a smaller tube, but stretched over the threaded adjuster. If it splits or won't stay put, I will probably use a bleed nipple cap instead, suitably pierced for the cable.


Brake adjuster seal by thermalsoareruk, on Flickr

I also like silicone greases in many applications as they don't tend to attack plastics like mineral lubricants can.

 

[jayjay]

Of course, 3 weeks later and no frosts....
The boots have stayed put though.

 

[byegad]

Mine are packed with grease at the open end.

 

[jayjay]

Ok to minus 2c so far.
Going to have to look at the handbrake though slightly stiffened.
And the speedometer switch froze (Cateye Strada - there's probably some water underneath it in the cradle / holder)