FSA Vero compact chain set - Right Hand Crank Arm Needed

[Johnsco]

My partner's son has bought a Whyte RD-7 Sussex.
Unfortunately he has been sold a pup.
The right-hand pedal thread was damaged and the pedal worked loose.
He continued to ride it until the thread in the aluminium crank arm was completely butchered and the pedal fell off.
He then bought on ebay an FSA Gossamer chain-set.
He isn't very mechanically-minded and (Surprise-Surprise) didn't know how to do the repair and dumped it on me.
The Gossamer bearing arrangement is quite different.
It may or may not swap-over, but it will require taking apart the bottom bracket ...... I don't have the spanner and I don't really want to go there - yet.
So - Does anyone know where I can get hold of a right-hand crank-arm as in the photo.
FSA - Vero ... 5-hole ... BCD 110mm ... 175mm.
The part no on the part is CK C-602.
A second hand part will be fine.
If I have buy the pair .... Well - So be it.


Does anyone helicoil these threads ?
It looks as if it may be beyond helicoiling, but it could be an option for me.

 

[LittleWheelsandBig]

That looks like the crank might be repairable, provided everything can be done squarely.
https://highpath.co.uk/crank-repairs-and-modifications/ knows what they are doing.

 

[si_c]

That crankarm looks pretty ruined to me, judging from the photos, it looks like the pedal has rounded out the threading completely. It's unlikely that helicoiling will fix, although photos closer to the threads might clarify that.

My suggestion would be to replace the crankset, speak to Spa Cycles in Harrogate, they do a range of their own brand cranksets, you don't need the chainrings, just the spider, shouldn't be more than about £40 (see here), and will probably cost less than trying to rectify the damage.

The chainset linked above uses a 107mm BB so check what's fitted right now - measure the width end to end of the spindle if it's more than a couple mm wider either side you might want to replace the BB as well, although it will work it will have a slightly broader stance. Don't go narrower as you may end up fouling the chainstays.

 

[Johnsco]

Thanks LWB.
Highpath clearly know what they are doing, and they can clearly do threads repairs - At a quoted price of £40.
By the time I've sent it and they've done the job and returned it, we're probably looking at £60 ..... and there will likely be VAT on top of that.
As si_c says - the pedal has gouged out the threading and it may be beyond repair.
I've used Spa Cycles before and found them very helpful.
I only posted an hour ago, so I'm still hopeful that a Forum member will save my life here.
The bottom bracket is fine. The square tapers are fine.
I don't have the special spanner to fit, so I'm hopeful to change the crank (or cranks) as a quick-fix.
A suitable pair of cranks doesn't have to be FSA Vero ..... as long as the RH crank is 110mm bcd.
Slight deviation from the 175mm crank length is not really a problem.
Thanks for your help, so far.
John

 

[Cycleops]

I'm a bit confused. The crank in the pics is the one he ruined I'm guessing. So if he bought a FSA replacement why do you think that won't fit?
Can you post a picture of it. Most likely it will fit without too much trouble if both are square taper. All you need is a crank removal tool but you don't really need that if the crank is buggered you can 'drift' it off with a hammer and steel bar from the other side. Works every time. All that needs doing then is to push the new one on and do up the bolt with a socket.
This time remember to put the pedal on the correct way ;-)

 

[si_c]

Thanks LWB.
Highpath clearly know what they are doing, and they can clearly do threads repairs - At a quoted price of £40.
By the time I've sent it and they've done the job and returned it, we're probably looking at £60 ..... and there will likely be VAT on top of that.
As si_c says - the pedal has gouged out the threading and it may be beyond repair.
I've used Spa Cycles before and found them very helpful.
I only posted an hour ago, so I'm still hopeful that a Forum member will save my life here.
The bottom bracket is fine. The square tapers are fine.
I don't have the special spanner to fit, so I'm hopeful to change the crank (or cranks) as a quick-fix.
A suitable pair of cranks doesn't have to be FSA Vero ..... as long as the RH crank is 110mm bcd.
Slight deviation from the 175mm crank length is not really a problem.
Thanks for your help, so far.
John

Looking like the cheapest option is replacement. I've also found Spa to be excellent over the years.

The only question I had about the BB was sizing, you need to know what width it is to inform any purchasing decisions - certainly there is no reason to believe it needs replacing, cartridge BBs tend to last indefinitely if what you have is good quality (Shimano/SKF etc).

 

[Johnsco]

I'm a bit confused. The crank in the pics is the one he ruined I'm guessing. So if he bought a FSA replacement why do you think that won't fit?
Can you post a picture of it. Most likely it will fit without too much trouble if both are square taper. All you need is a crank removal tool but you don't really need that if the crank is buggered you can 'drift' it off with a hammer and steel bar from the other side. Works every time. All that needs doing then is to push the new one on and do up the bolt with a socket.
This time remember to put the pedal on the correct way ;-)

I've removed the cranks using the correct crank-removal tool
[I'm no stanger to the "big-hammer" techniques !!]
This is the RH crank he bought ... He also bought the LH cranck with the same fitting.








Also the existing BB ...

 

[si_c]

I really like the FSA Gossamer crankset, it's nice and stiff and the bearing arrangement is reasonable with a threaded BB like you have. You can get a replacement BB for that and fit it - it'll work nicely, but you're looking at about £50 just for the BB alone, plus fitting.

 

[Johnsco]

Hi si_c
I may go down the Gossamer road if I can't get the "Vero" crank arm.
If I decide to go that way, I hope you'll guide me.
I guess the first thing I'll need guidance on is the correct spanner
Having looked at the Gossamer kit that Sean bought on the net, it was pretty clear that it wasn't just a straight swap.
Thanks.

 

[si_c]

Hi si_c
I may go down the Gossamer road if I can't get the "Vero" crank arm.
If I decide to go that way, I hope you'll guide me.
I guess the first thing I'll need guidance on is the correct spanner
Having looked at the Gossamer kit that Sean bought on the net, it was pretty clear that it wasn't just a straight swap.
Thanks.

Yeah the cranksets are fairly easy to fit once the BB is in, however you need the correct BB to thread it on, sadly it's not compatible with the shimano HT2 BB spanner, so add that on, plus you'll need a Shimano cartridge BB tool for removing the current BB, so probably another £50 in tools - although once you've got them, you've got them, personally I lean towards the you can never have enough tools and the more specialised the better end of the spectrum.

Once you've swapped the BB, the crankset feeds through from the drive side and you attach the left crank arm using and then tighten it up with an hex wrench.

You can quickly and easily take it off for cleaning much better than most other cranksets, but the BB installation needs special tools.

 

[Cycleops]

That's an Octalink crankset. You'll need the correct removed tool for your existing BB and a fitting tool for the Octalink. These chainsets have now been discontinued by Shimano as they were problematic in that if not correctly torqued they could work loose and if not tightened immediately the metal spindle would destroy the aluminium crank .
Sorry, I don't want to put you off.

 

[Cycleops]

This is the octalink tool you'll need.

Plus the cartridge BB which just screws into your BB. About £20.

 

[si_c]

That's an Octalink crankset. You'll need the correct removed tool for your existing BB and a fitting tool for the Octalink. These chainsets have now been discontinued by Shimano as they were problematic in that if not correctly torqued they could work loose and if not tightened immediately the metal spindle would destroy the aluminium crank .
Sorry, I don't want to put you off.

It's two separate cranksets, one which is BB386evo and one which is a square taper. They both need different tools.

 

[si_c]

Just a side thought, I have a MegaEvo (needed for the new crankset) bottom bracket lying around somewhere, it's used (probable ~1000miles), but still has life left in it, probably worth flushing the bearings out and repacking with grease as it will have been in a box for about 18 months since I took it off a bike, but perfectly serviceable.

If you do go down the route of keeping the new FSA Gossamer chainset, I'm quite happy to post it on to you.

 

[Johnsco]

Thanks si-c
Thanks Cycleops.
You've confirmed my worst fears ... and it's clearly even-worse that I thought it would be.
I wish my partner's son had come to me when the pedal first worked loose and the situation could be saved.
[ I wish ... I wish ... ]
All my life - I've never begrudged the cost of tools ...
Use them once and they've usually paid for themselves.
However - Now that I'm in my mid-70s, the time for serious tool-buying may be coming to a close.
I never expect to do this job again !
If I do have to go down the BB replacement route -
1. Will the existing retaining nuts knock round with a hammer and punch ?
2. Can the old BB be removed with threaded bars + washers + a couple of nuts and a good spanner ?
3. Or - Will it knock out ... And if so - Which way ?

I still have the option of buying compatible crank arms or sending the existing crank arm to Highpath Engineering.
They may be able to engineer a suitable insert - However bad the thread looks.
I've seen more desperate repairs completed successfully ... although everything has a price.
Thanks for your thoughts - So far.
John

Just a side thought, I have a MegaEvo (needed for the new crankset) bottom bracket lying around somewhere, it's used (probable ~1000miles), but still has life left in it, probably worth flushing the bearings out and repacking with grease as it will have been in a box for about 18 months since I took it off a bike, but perfectly serviceable.

If you do go down the route of keeping the new FSA Gossamer chainset, I'm quite happy to post it on to you.

Thanks very much.
If needed, I'll be more that happy to send you a suitable consideration - Both for you costs and for your help.
Cheers.
John