Gaadi inner tubes????

[numbnuts]

I have one for my rear on my etrike

 

[albion]

Been around for a good decade plus. They are linear inner
tubes.

If your bike has a hub gear, you might also consider them.

 

[mjr]

We're now going to replace the punctured tube with our double ended tube WITHOUT taking the wheel or tyre off. So the sharp remains in the tyre. Is it just me that removes the tyre so I can check for what caused the puncture in the first place so I don't replace the tube only for it to deflate again once I ride the bike?

No but I can check the inside of the tyre near the puncture site without removing the wheel. Can't you?

 

[youngoldbloke]

No but I can check the inside of the tyre near the puncture site without removing the wheel. Can't you?

- but sometimes (most times IME), it's not possible to see where the tyre punctured, or what caused it. This also applies to pinch flats. I've only rarely punctured with a thorn or flint evident on the tyre tread.

 

[richardfm]

- but sometimes (most times IME), it's not possible to see where the tyre punctured, or what caused it. This also applies to pinch flats. I've only rarely punctured with a thorn or flint evident on the tyre tread.

If you feel round the inside of the tyre when your finger starts bleeding you have found the thorn ot sliver of glass. You don't need to remove the tyre completely to this.

 

[youngoldbloke]

If you feel round the inside of the tyre when your finger starts bleeding you have found the thorn ot sliver of glass. You don't need to remove the tyre completely to this.

I prefer to use a piece of cotton wool. I think for me it's less hassle to simply take the wheel off, even if its heavier than an unpowered one, and remove the tyre. My ebikes are not too heavy anyway.

 

[Regular.Cyclist]

I use GAADI tubes on my Gates belt drive commuter with an Alfine rear hub.

Once the tube is out it’s relatively easy to find the puncture and therefore the area of the tyre that requires further inspection in case it is retaining a thorn / sharp stone/ other puncture producing object.

 

[Dadam]

These seem to be popular on ebikes but I don't really see the need. Yes the wheel is heavier on rear hub motors and you need to unplug and replug the motor connector, but that takes maybe an extra 10 seconds total. I've not found it any more of a pain to refit the rear wheel than a non electric bike with a rear derailleur. I have changed rear wheel on my ebike half a dozen times now and by far the most faff for me is lining up the axle in the dropouts and the disc between the pads all while wrapping the chain round the cog and also keeping the mech out of the way. Seems to need 4 hands! No doubt those who have changed hundreds of wheels can do it in seconds but I also doubt those people would be fazed by a heavier wheel and a plug.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

As long as you don’t go for Dali inner tubes

 

[richardfm]

I prefer to use a piece of cotton wool. I think for me it's less hassle to simply take the wheel off, even if its heavier than an unpowered one, and remove the tyre. My ebikes are not too heavy anyway.

It's not about how heavy it is. The chain guard and hub gears on my wife's bike. Makes removing the rear wheel a right pain

 

[youngoldbloke]

It's not about how heavy it is. The chain guard and hub gears on my wife's bike. Makes removing the rear wheel a right pain

Fair enough

 

[Stul]

..I have a hub drive with a belt and I can assure you it is an absolute pig to drop the rear wheel out.....not something I wish to do when "out and about"....

 

[ebikeerwidnes]

Ahhh

I was wondering what all the fuss was about with punctures and hub drives
I have had 3 hub drives and both modern ones you just unplugged the cable
The older one couldn;t be unplugged without a set of allen keys and spanners as the connection was internal - never actually tries it as it was too much hassle and looked like there was a risk to getting grit into the mechanism
However, all of them could have the tuce and tyre removed by just loosening the nuts on both side and lifting it off as far as it would go (an inch or so) and then wiggling the tyre off on the non-connection side

took a bit of wiggling but wasn;t a big problem

the chain guard however - I had not considered

 

[Pale Rider]

Believe it or not, some of the earlier Chinese rear hub bikes didn't have an inline plug, so disconnecting the motor was all but impossible.

Most now have plugs, but it's worth checking if you have to free the cable from the chainstay to fully disconnect the cable.

It will likely be held to the stay via small cable ties which will require careful cutting to avoid nicking the cable.

And another thing, don't forget to carry some insulation tape or cable ties to reattach the cable to the stay after wheel removal and refitting.

If it's left hanging free it could easily snag in the spokes of the wheel.

Maybe those GAADI tubes are not such a bad idea.

 

[ebikeerwidnes]

My first ebike didn;t have an in-line plug

But I could still change the inner tube - even at the side of the road - by loosening the nuts and taking the tyre and tube off on the opposite side to the motor connection

Not really a problem - not weird inner tube required