General advice on self-build

[drissa]

I recently completed a little renovation project - stripping/re-painting an old Peugeot frame for my girlfriend. I'm hardly now an expert, but I've a got the bug, some free time and access to a local co-op, with experienced technicians and tools.

I like the idea of building myself something, based around an old frame I'd find (eg. 501 or decent Peugeot), plus modern everything else. If I was buying new, I'd be looking for a hybrid with an internal hub (eg. Alfine) and solid wheels - my current bog-standard Giant city bike has basic wheels which didn't take much to buckle slightly.

I appreciate these projects involve all kinds of challenges and decisions and advice is hard to simplify. I'm a photographer and I'm often asked for buying advice - I can make 'sensible' recommendations for gear, somewhere between cheap stuff built down to a price and the esoteric stuff which offers ever decreasing returns for most people.

I'm hoping there might be some similar bike advice/tips available... eg. certain suppliers of parts, decent mid-range wheels, general 'make sure of x and y before buying the frame'.

Any thoughts or useful stories would be appreciated.

 

[smokeysmoo]

If you want to fit a modern groupset onto an old frame you will need to 'cold set' the rear drop outs in order to do it, and to do this you will need to be sure you have a steel frame, (I've done it with an 80's alu frame succesfully, but it's not recommended). For advice on cold setting see HERE.

It sounds like your set with the local co-op as the cost of tools can be an initial kick in the spuds, but other than that my advice would be set a budget a stick to it, resto projects can easily run away with you and cost you far more than you ever anticipated, just don't ask how I know this

Here's a pic of the 80's Peugeot I did which I fitted 10 speed Campagnolo to and built it up for winter commuting duties.

BEFORE:

AFTER:

 

[KneesUp]

I've not a great deal to add, but I'm sort of doing the same myself at the moment with a bike I got for nothing. The main problem I've had is separating parts that have rusted or bonded together!

eBay, Gumtree and Preloved are great places to start for parts. I actually ended up buying two complete bikes when looking for parts for the one I'm creating, but they were too good to break up ...

 

[drissa]

Great looking resto project! And thanks for info on cold setting. This seems to be the main hurdle.

 

[smokeysmoo]

Great looking resto project! And thanks for info on cold setting. This seems to be the main hurdle.

It's not hard to do TBH. The simplest method IMO, and the one I used was a simple length of threaded bar, some nuts and some big flat washers, then just keep winding the nuts out to spread the drop outs. Patience is key, and don't overdo one side more than the other, and lastly don't forget you need to go past the spacing size you need to allow for some natural spring back, but steel is very forgiving.

 

[drissa]

Sorry to resurrect this one... I've received some advice against using an old steel frame with an Alfine internal hub, due to the frames not necessarily having the strength. I've seen elsewhere online people recommending new frames for this purpose (eg. frames available on Planet X), but I would assume a good steel frame from late 70s/80s could at least match these. Is there something simple I'm missing?

 

[biggs682]

cant see why a good old steel frame could not be any good

 

[smokeysmoo]

cant see why a good old steel frame could not be any good

+1

I've seen elsewhere online people recommending new frames for this purpose (eg. frames available on Planet X)

These people didn't happen to work for PX did they?

FWIW you can still buy a steel framed Alfine hub equipped bike today, see HERE. So why an older one wouldn't work beats me

 

[drissa]

Thanks folks. Is any butted 531 frame (with no BB/seat post issues) a good starting point? Are there any broad guidelines for getting a good frame or avoiding a bad one?

 

[sittingbull]

It's not hard to do TBH. The simplest method IMO, and the one I used was a simple length of threaded bar, some nuts and some big flat washers, then just keep winding the nuts out to spread the drop outs. Patience is key, and don't overdo one side more than the other, and lastly don't forget you need to go past the spacing size you need to allow for some natural spring back, but steel is very forgiving.

How do you control which side moves? I'm moving towards a build myself (have amassed 80% of the components, some several times over), just need a decent frame of 21" or less and cold setting is something I've never attempted. Your approach would appear more "controlled" than using a plank of wood to spread the stays, and I know of a frame builder using the same approach.

Your Pug looks superb! Was the paint job out of choice or necessity?

 

[smokeysmoo]

How do you control which side moves? I'm moving towards a build myself (have amassed 80% of the components, some several times over), just need a decent frame of 21" or less and cold setting is something I've never attempted. Your approach would appear more controlled than using a plank of wood to spread the stays, and I know of a frame builder using the same approach.

Your Pug looks superb! Was the paint job out of choice or necessity?

It's a softly softly approach you adopt when using a threaded bar. One turn one side, one turn the other, a regular measurement checks. It is really easy to do.

Thanks for the compliment, the paint was necessary IMO, and I was really happy with the way it turned out, but it was professionally sprayed and baked by a vehicle repair bodyshop.

 

[sittingbull]

Thanks for the compliment, the paint was necessary IMO, and I was really happy with the way it turned out, but it was professionally sprayed and baked by a vehicle repair bodyshop.

It looks like a new bike! I don't think I'd have the heart to ride that through winter.

I'd rather avoid a re-spray if possible, I know how much they can cost. Either way I think I'd build it up first for the practice rather than risk clamps/spanners near a new paint job 'til I know what's going where.

 

[Dogtrousers]

It's a softly softly approach you adopt when using a threaded bar. One turn one side, one turn the other, a regular measurement checks. It is really easy to do..

I'm planning on doing this on my Dawes. At the moment I have to turn the bike upside-down and wrestle it to get the back wheel in. I'll get around to it some time, but in the meantime I'm relying on Marathon Plus to minimise the likelihood of having to do this at the roadside (it has happened thought).

However, using the threaded bar method the force will be equal at either end of the bar, regardless of which nut you turn. Unless the bar is fixed to the rest of the frame in some way.