Hope RX4 Flat Mount Hydraulic Calipers

russ.will

Slimboy Fat
Location
The Fen Edge
I'm interested to hear any experience of them

I have Shimano BR-RS805F calipers and to be honest, they're underwhelming. They've always stopped me and not lacked power with a good squeeze, but having done a custom build without those mid-hose connectors off-the-peg bikes have, I'm under-smitten.

I have Rival-22 and Campy Veloce rim braked bikes that offer shorter lever travel, more immediate bite and this is the clincher - MORE FEEL at the lever.

I have serviced and cleaned Brembo Goldline pad-per-piston calipers on my track motorbikes in the past. I'm aware of the tricks regarding angles and zip tying levers overnight, reverse bleeding, etc. Seen the YouTube tutorials and all that.

Fact is; the 805s aren't all that, so I'm only interested in opinions of converts to Hope RX4s and if they found the conversion an improvement. If so, did the Hopes require any tricks?

Russ
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
I have Hope RX4 on my Tripster. I changed from Shimano R785 hydraulic calipers. Swapping and connecting hoses was simple enough, but I found Hope's bleed screw to be a faff- you can't lock it off like a conventional bleed nipple. Fluid leaks all over the place when removing the hose before fitting grub screw.

Function wise I find they are as strong in braking but feel nicer, as though you get better modulation. I have too much play in my lever for my liking- that is a consequence of the poor bleed setup with Hope. I used to be able to pressurise the Shimano calipers removing all the excess play before pad bites to rotor.

I may try and get a conventional nipple to fit my Hope RX4 so I can alter the initial lever travel.
 

MrGrumpy

Huge Member
Location
Fly Fifer
Must say quite fancied some Hope bling, but need post mount calipers. Interesting about bleeding, I managed to get my R785 calipers bang on now. No more soft levers and screeching brakes.
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
EDIT: Is this the nipple you are seeking? The questions below on the webpage seem to imply it is?

Russ
Possibly:okay:.

The RX4 have just a grub screw, which you put in after removing the bleed tube assembly.

There is no way to lock off the hydraulic system without losing pressure. This is the grub screw(yellow ring).
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This is both from SJS

Screenshot_20200820-085336_Chrome.jpg
 
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OP
russ.will

russ.will

Slimboy Fat
Location
The Fen Edge
Possibly:okay:.

The RX4 have just a grub screw, which you put in after removing the bleed tube assembly.

There is no way to lock off the hydraulic system without losing pressure. This is the grub screw(yellow ring). View attachment 542605

This is both from SJS

View attachment 542606
Hi,

I watched the Hope road caliper bleeding tutorial and realise that is the screw you were talking about.

To my mind, I think it's a form over function thing. It certainly looks better than a nipple, if you're into really, really small details...

That said, the amount of fluid you would lose/air you would let into the system would be very small as long as you're quick on the draw with hex-key preloaded with the nipple. I guess the extra steps they then say you should go through would get that and any other air out of the system as their tutorial seem to suggest shoving the pistons right back at least once.

From my motorbike days, I'd be tempted to leave the brake leave zip-tied back to the bar overnight anyway as there's always a bit more air that will rise to the top of its own accord eventually.

Cheers for the replies.

Russ
 

CXRAndy

Guru
Location
Lincs
Hi,

I watched the Hope road caliper bleeding tutorial and realise that is the screw you were talking about.

To my mind, I think it's a form over function thing. It certainly looks better than a nipple, if you're into really, really small details...

That said, the amount of fluid you would lose/air you would let into the system would be very small as long as you're quick on the draw with hex-key preloaded with the nipple. I guess the extra steps they then say you should go through would get that and any other air out of the system as their tutorial seem to suggest shoving the pistons right back at least once.

From my motorbike days, I'd be tempted to leave the brake leave zip-tied back to the bar overnight anyway as there's always a bit more air that will rise to the top of its own accord eventually.

Cheers for the replies.

Russ
It is a look over function for the grub screw.

Its not the air being trapped but lever travel before bite. Early in getting hydraulic brakes on a road push bike, I like little movement so I would put paper spacers between the pads and rotor, force a little bit of extra fluid into the system to pressurise it, then lock off the nipple. The handlebar reservoir was sealed at this point. It worked really well for me. I didn't mind a few miles of slightly binding pads due to close pad/rotor gap. After a few miles it all bedded in, with sensitive levers :okay:
 
OP
russ.will

russ.will

Slimboy Fat
Location
The Fen Edge
Quick update.

I found the bleed screw to be okay in use and Hope confirmed you cannot replace it with a bleed nipple. The explanation was that because road calipers are easy to bleed top down, the screw fit gives you sealed, secure connection when pushing fluid through bottom up. In practice, it was no harder or longer than bleeding my previous BRS505s.

I've only done about 100 miles on them so far, but even so the initial bite, resistance and feel at the lever are superior to the Shimanos which, to be fair are no longer bleeding edge in the range and my pair had over 10,000 miles of road crap and crud through them. Possibly past their best...

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