How to adjust the derailer on my own?

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OP
OP
J

jdg88

New Member
Ah much newbie-ness showing through!!! Palinuris you were right it was on the small chainring on the front! Does that help with a solution? I'll also try posting on t'other forum, thanks for double checking!
 

peanut

Guest
what do you mean by 'slip '?

Most cyclists take that to mean that the chain rides along the top of the sprocket teeth or jumps out of sprockets which often points to chain and cassette wear.

If you mean its trying to change gear by itself all the time then you just need to adjust the derailier probably .

1. Turn the bike upside down on a towel.

2. Put the chain on the small chainring
3. Shift the gears until the chain is on the smallest sprocket of the cassette.(turn pedals shift lever)
4. Check that the derailier pulley wheel is exactly centred over the teeth of the smallest sprocket.
5. Adjust the deraillieur limit screw until pulley is centred
6. Shift into the largest sprocket.
7. Check deraillieur pulley wheel is centered exactly over the centre line of the sprocket teeth.
8. Adjust other limit screw as necessary.
9. Shift lever until chain in smallest sprocket . Turn cranks, should sound nice and smooth now .
10. Shift lever once until chain is in the second smallest sprocket.
11. Gradually adjust the rear gear cable tension adjuster out (anti clockwise), on (either the deraillieur or the head tube) whilst slowly turning the cranks until you hear the chain starting to climb onto the third smallest sprocket .
12. Back off the cable tension adjuster slightly until the noise just goes away
now run the gears up and down the cassette they should be smooth ....simples:biggrin:

blimey by the time I'd typed all this out there has been 27 posts and the bike has turned into a trike ! oh well
 

palinurus

Velo, boulot, dodo
Location
Watford
peanut said:
what do you mean by 'slip '?

Most cyclists take that to mean that the chain rides along the top of the sprocket teeth or jumps out of sprockets which often points to chain and cassette wear.

That's what I took it to mean. If the chain and cassette are matched (and if they haven't been changed they will be) then it isn't that. Probably just requires adjustment.

Glad it was in the small ring otherwise there was something odd going on there. Some combinations of gears aren't really viable on some bikes/trikes, small chainring to smallest cogs on the cassette may not be in your case.

Maybe the rear mech always ends up back there in those combinations- when you think about it those combinations aren't actually that useful (if you want high gears you won't be using the little ring).

Throw in a hub gear as well and I think you'll be able to find a similar gear elsewhere!
 
OP
OP
J

jdg88

New Member
Thanks to all for all your advice, and apologies for my lack of experience and possibly having confused the issue with my description of the problems and not checking the chain ring setup properly!!

I'm going to send the pics to Kev to check if this is perhaps a 'normal' position given the gear setup on my trike. I will also have a go at adjusting the gears using Peanut's instructions to get a smooth gearshift.

Hopefully if the weather stays nice I'll be riding again Monday!

Thanks again.
 

peanut

Guest
I've just noticed the comment about chain rub in the third photo.
The rear mech shouldn't fold up enough for this to happen normally but if you were in the smallest chainring at the front then that would suggest that your chain is a little too long.
However it is important to note that it is not recommended that either the smallest sprocket and smallest chainring should be used together or the biggest chainring and sprocket combination because it gives a poor chainline angle .

To check chain length put the chain on the biggest chain ring and biggest sprocket and let us have a picture of the rear mech.
 
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