Hub Spinning Test

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grellboy

Veteran
Got my Caadx back from lbs today. Noticed quite deep Nick in tyre so flipped it and replaced tyre. Whilst flipped, I thought I would spin the front wheel (standard Cannondale) and spun it: lasted for 55 seconds. Then compared it to the Campagnolo Scirroco set on my Dolan: 3 mins 26 seconds. Just wondering what this equates to in practical terms? Does it mean anything at all...except that I am a real sad bastard!?
 

Cuchilo

Prize winning member X2
Location
London
One rolls better than the other :okay:
 

si_c

Guru
Location
Wirral
Can you make this a poll? I want to tick sad bastard :laugh:
Did you spin each wheel equally? Is the rim depth the same? Are the rims the same weight? Too many variables - neither will slow you down at all though. My dynamo wheel spins for about 30s if I give it a bit of hard pull, less if the light is on, in practice I notice neither as slowing me down compared to a different wheel.
 

ryanme

Member
Location
Somerset
Stock CaadX wheels are not all that fancy ..., bearings are fairly low quality and they roll slowly. Essentially in terms of ride, you have to put in more effort ...

Great upgrade options are either then cheap option of the Mavic Aksium Disc £165, or go for the decent option of Hope 20Five £400.
 

SkipdiverJohn

Deplorable Brexiteer
Location
London
Stock CaadX wheels are not all that fancy ..., bearings are fairly low quality and they roll slowly. Essentially in terms of ride, you have to put in more effort ...

Great upgrade options are either then cheap option of the Mavic Aksium Disc £165, or go for the decent option of Hope 20Five £400.

I'm struggling to see the logic here. Why buy a bike with wheels you consider mediocre then spend a load of money replacing them with supposedly "better" ones? If the wheels aren't up to scratch, then surely you would choose a different model bike with better wheels to begin with?.
I'm sure a load of these component "upgrade" benefits supposedly gained by spending upwards of several hundred pounds a time largely only exist in the minds of the upgrader, and are used as self-justification (or other half justification) for spending a large wad of cash. We aren't talking about a night & day difference here, like replacing an old heavy steel rim with a light alloy one that saves both significant weight and improves braking, we're talking about miniscule savings in weight or rolling resistance which in reality will never be noticeable.
 

ryanme

Member
Location
Somerset
I'm struggling to see the logic here. Why buy a bike with wheels you consider mediocre then spend a load of money replacing them with supposedly "better" ones? If the wheels aren't up to scratch, then surely you would choose a different model bike with better wheels to begin with?.
I'm sure a load of these component "upgrade" benefits supposedly gained by spending upwards of several hundred pounds a time largely only exist in the minds of the upgrader, and are used as self-justification (or other half justification) for spending a large wad of cash. We aren't talking about a night & day difference here, like replacing an old heavy steel rim with a light alloy one that saves both significant weight and improves braking, we're talking about miniscule savings in weight or rolling resistance which in reality will never be noticeable.


In my opinion, you are quite incorrect.

The difference from the CaadX stock wheels to the hopes is huge, in weight, rolling speed, strength, tubeless capable etc.

The CaadX bearings are so poorly sealed I replaced tonnes and tonnes last year for Aksiums / Hopes on customer bikes.

Until you go super high end expect cheaper wheels. Thats how so many brands do it.
 

Ajax Bay

Guru
Location
East Devon
Just wondering what this equates to in practical terms?
CaadX wheel was spinning through the disc brake pads. Scirroco wheel was clear of the rim brake blocks. Need to do a fair test.
In my opinion, you are quite incorrect.
Early on in your time on Cycle Chat, I wonder if you would consider being less confrontational in the tone of your posts. I appreciate you may be posting from work, in between answering customers' queries, but a recognition of others' expressed opinions, as just that, by taking a more nuanced approach, would be good.
 
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This won't slow you down as much as rubbing brake pads... :rolleyes:
 

GuyBoden

Guru
Location
Warrington
Got my Caadx back from lbs today. Noticed quite deep Nick in tyre so flipped it and replaced tyre. Whilst flipped, I thought I would spin the front wheel (standard Cannondale) and spun it: lasted for 55 seconds. Then compared it to the Campagnolo Scirroco set on my Dolan: 3 mins 26 seconds. Just wondering what this equates to in practical terms? Does it mean anything at all...except that I am a real sad bastard!?

Here's a hub spinning video to while away the afternoon.............. ^_^
 
From my experience in times long ago, it is honestly quite amazing how many axles are ever so slightly out of true and some by a considerable margin !

So these days one of the first things I do with any axle (including the crank) fitted to my bikes is to check them and if out, then I true them up and/or if they are too far out they get replaced.

On my Mavic equipped Shorter the axles were as close to spot on as could be imagined and on doing the spin test, it is amazing how long they keep spinning and when out on the road it tells as it simply rolls along like no other bike I have ever ridden.
 
What do you mean by "out of true" and how do you correct it?

On a 100% flat steel plate I do a simple roll test with the axle and watch it very carefully and then (and I know this sounds barbaric but it works for me) I give it a careful clout with a lump hammer in the high points direction. Over the many years I have done this, by being exceptionally careful I have found good results can be obtained.
Interestingly enough I have even used this technique on items such as rotary mower shafts after they have clouted a bolder!!
 

Globalti

Legendary Member
Oh. I learned a similar technique for straightening thin copper pipes - lay them on the floor and roll them under the foot to straighten them. At one time I was experimenting with CuNiFer brake and hydraulic pipes as a tool for threading gear and bake cables through bike frames.
 
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