Hybrid v Road bike

Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.

Dibs

Veteran
Location
West Lothian
I've got a GT Mountain bike, which I put on hybrid road tyres and use it to commute weekly. I'm looking to get into it more and next year really get out more on the bike.

Based on this, I'm looking to get another bike on the c2w scheme. I'm trying to do my homework now, so I can know exactly what I want in April.

I'm trying to decide between a hybrid & road bike. I find that on my MTB, the gearing doesn't really allow me to get any decent speed up. By getting a hybrid or road bike, I hope it will help me increase my overall speed.

I'm looking for something to commute on plus get out to help with fitness...

Any thoughts as to which may be better?

Thanks in advance.
 

MacB

Lover of things that come in 3's
The gearing itself isn't what generates the speed, if we compare a road and MTB triple:-

Road - 30-42-52 with 11-28 cassette
MTB - 2-32-42 with 11-34 cassette

The 52 ring on the road bike will only give you 2-3 higher gears than the outer 42 ring on the MTB creates, the highest of which you wouldn't be spending much time in. Plus gearing can be changed to suit but not as easily as it used to be, so the decision for me would be based on the fixed points:-

1. handlebar choice - a frame designed for drop bars will normally have a shorter ETT(effective top tube) than one designed for flat/alternate bars - changing at a later date can be problematic and costly

2. usage - what can the bike do? does it have mudguard mounts, rack mounts, how big a tyre can it take, can it take disc brakes, etc? - if you want to carry luggage, use bigger tyres or fit full mudguards then a full on race bike won't generally accommodate this.

3. gearing - road and MTB gearing has been diverging making mix and match more difficult - if you buy with a certain setup then it is costly to alter to other types of shifter/derailleur

If you're seeking a one bike to do it all solution then I'd make a list of the primary usage points and shop based on that with setup and gears coming next. Personally I'd always suggest, if space/finance allows, a two bike solution. In your case I'd be tempted to:-

a. if your current bike can take racks and guards etc then just upgrade the chainset, maybe a 48/38/26 and a new FD if needed, this would be about £60 - play with the bars a bit, I'd suggest alternate ones or adding bar ends both inside and outside of the grips, which will give you stretched out cruising options.

b. use the C2W scheme to get a fun/fast/weekend bike and do this by trying plenty
 

Cycleops

Legendary Member
Location
Accra, Ghana
I suspect that a hybrid or a road bike will be a revelation to you with regards to speed unlocked by the better and faster rolling wheels and lighter weight. Many hybrids now are just road bikes with straight bars so you will need to decide which layout you prefer.
 

MarkF

Guru
Location
Yorkshire
OP, I've also got a GT MTB with 40mm "City" tyres, a hybrid and a road bike. If I could only keep one it'd be the hybrid, I run it on 28mm front, 32mm rear and hop from trail to road on long rides, it is used for touring, often does my commute and the shopping too. My road bike is for fun and it certainly is, but I get bored restricted to a good surface when I have great trails along the Aire Valley, whatever suits you and your riding..................
 

I like Skol

A Minging Manc...
Sounds like you are doing almost exactly what I did (without using the C2W scheme)

I had my GT hardtail MTB from the early 90's and at various times it was fitted with fat 2.1" slicks to do duty as a nursery run child seat carrier bus and then later as a commute machine. I wanted to keep the off-road functionality without having to faff with tyre changes so bought a Hybrid (another GT) and threw the 11-32 cassette away to be replaced by an 11-26. this, coupled with the 28-38-48 chainset gives perfect gearing for the fast road stuff I like and still has the hardly used 28 granny ring should I ever need it. I then bought a road bike because I fancied one (It's a GT, notice a trend here?) and while it is a lovely bike and great fun to ride it doesn't really go faster or further with any less effort compared to the hybrid. I will often choose the hybrid over the road bike when doing 100 mile forum rides as I like to put a bit of flap jack in my panniers or the weather looks a bit dicey so I want the hybrids mudgaurds.

I suggest you try both and get which ever you prefer, just make sure the largest chainring is 48 or bigger and the cassette has a smallest sprocket of 11 (although this isn't hard or expensive to change).

I like my GT Traffic 1.0 :-)
 

I like Skol

A Minging Manc...
I suspect that a hybrid or a road bike will be a revelation to you with regards to speed unlocked by the better and faster rolling wheels and lighter weight. Many hybrids now are just road bikes with straight bars so you will need to decide which layout you prefer.

My MTB on slicks is just about as fast as my other bikes and equally comfortable on 100 milers. I would also say that my Hybrid is MTB orientated although it is a rigid frame fork it has MTB hubs and triple MTB chainset.

My MTB also currently has 28/38/48 chainset (although this is about to be changed to a 32/44)
 

nappadang

Über Member
Location
Gateshead
The gearing itself isn't what generates the speed, if we compare a road and MTB triple:-

Road - 30-42-52 with 11-28 cassette
MTB - 2-32-42 with 11-34 cassette

The 52 ring on the road bike will only give you 2-3 higher gears than the outer 42 ring on the MTB creates, the highest of which you wouldn't be spending much time in. Plus gearing can be changed to suit but not as easily as it used to be, so the decision for me would be based on the fixed points:-

1. handlebar choice - a frame designed for drop bars will normally have a shorter ETT(effective top tube) than one designed for flat/alternate bars - changing at a later date can be problematic and costly

2. usage - what can the bike do? does it have mudguard mounts, rack mounts, how big a tyre can it take, can it take disc brakes, etc? - if you want to carry luggage, use bigger tyres or fit full mudguards then a full on race bike won't generally accommodate this.

3. gearing - road and MTB gearing has been diverging making mix and match more difficult - if you buy with a certain setup then it is costly to alter to other types of shifter/derailleur

If you're seeking a one bike to do it all solution then I'd make a list of the primary usage points and shop based on that with setup and gears coming next. Personally I'd always suggest, if space/finance allows, a two bike solution. In your case I'd be tempted to:-

a. if your current bike can take racks and guards etc then just upgrade the chainset, maybe a 48/38/26 and a new FD if needed, this would be about £60 - play with the bars a bit, I'd suggest alternate ones or adding bar ends both inside and outside of the grips, which will give you stretched out cruising options.

b. use the C2W scheme to get a fun/fast/weekend bike and do this by trying plenty
I've been considering upgrades or a new bike in the spring, this post has been unbelievably helpful. I've read a lot of brilliant advice on here but this is up there.
New bike in the spring, if wor lass allows (so probably not)
 
Top Bottom