Identifying the correct replacement chain?

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nigelb

New Member
Hi

Links of the existing chain are 1/2" long, but the thickness is more tricky - 1/4" on the thicker bits, 3/32" on the thinner - how do people like wiggle tend to quote chain thicknesses?

Nige
 

Oldlegs

Frogs are people too.
Location
Norwich
They quote the number of cogs on the rear cassette eg 10 speed.
 

RecordAceFromNew

Swinging Member
Location
West London
You would normally start with the speed (number of sprockets) and select the chain matching the speed to suit because it is the sprocket pitch that determines whether a chain is appropriate.

Different manufacturers' chains' widths (at the widest point - i.e. at the pins) are not identical (although similar) for chains for the same speed.

If you want to replace a chain with the exact same make/model, you should be able to identify markings on some of the plates.
 
Chains tend to be quoted in width according to the speed of your bike (the number of gears/ rear cogs). 6,7 & 8 speed chains are all the same thickness, 9, 10 and 11 speed respectively are each narrower. The length isn't a problem, chains are always longer than you need, so you just have to put the old chain next to it so you can remove links and make it the same.
 
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nigelb

New Member
Well, its 6 gears at the back, 2 at the front - really old stuff.

Non-indexed gear changers, just trying to buy a suitable chain - I'll give the old one a clean up and see if I can make out any markings at all (its rather rusty!).

Just trying to breathe some life cheaply into an old bike, needs must and all that.

Nige
 

TheDoctor

Europe Endless
Moderator
Location
The TerrorVortex
Right. As above you can get 5/6/7 speed chain (one size fits all) - some makes do a specific 8 speed chain, some don't. This should do nicely. If you have an Asda in your town, they do a chain at about a fiver that works on 5/6/7/8 speed - I have a few in use.
 

youngoldbloke

The older I get, the faster I used to be ...
It is a 3/32" chain. You will still find chains described this way, especially in the fixed and single speed world, where 1/8" chains are common.
 
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nigelb

New Member
Thanks everyone, that's a huge help :-)

I have the right tool (to lose a chain link) somewhere, can't find it, but I'll buy a new one (plus a few other tools) as this bike is going to need some working on in the coming months.

At least its nice and simple, and won't be my main "commute in any weather" machine.

Nige
 

Paulus

Started young, and still going.
Location
Barnet,
Just a quick tip, when splitting the new chain to the correct length, try not to push the pin right through and out of the plate, just far enough for the plates to come apart. It can be a bit fiddly trying to get it back in again.
 

youngoldbloke

The older I get, the faster I used to be ...
Many chains (like the KMC recommended above) come with their own quick link - much easier to join/rejoin - you will (probably) still need a chain tool to shorten the chain though. Another tip - when you measure it against your old chain, remember the quicklink is part of the length of the new one.
 
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