Integrated headset cups wearing down .

U

User6179

Guest
The integrated cup in top of my frame that the bearings sit in has worn and now I cant get the play out of the steering.
Used Google for a fix but only thing I can find is to use epoxy resin to fix the sealed bearings in place which am not sure is a good idea or not .
Frame has done under 10000 miles and was a warranty replacement 2 years ago so I doubt I would get another though I have noted that the new version Cube Agree GTC has a semi integrated headset on the top instead of fully integrated one so I guess there has been problems with them.

Before I use the Epoxy resin has anyone had any experience of using the stuff , I don't want to use it and not be able to remove the cartridge bearing when it needs replaced .
 
Location
Loch side.
I would rather attempt to build up the ovalised area with something like superglue and baking soda (Q-bond is the commercial equivalent) than glue the bearing in place. zis this a carbon or alu bike?

Although this problem is rare, I've had a few cases, also BB cups ovalising, but all these were carbon.
 
OP
U

User6179

Guest
I would rather attempt to build up the ovalised area with something like superglue and baking soda (Q-bond is the commercial equivalent) than glue the bearing in place. zis this a carbon or alu bike?

Although this problem is rare, I've had a few cases, also BB cups ovalising, but all these were carbon.
Its a carbon bike , I have some Loctite 222 , would that work you think?
 
Location
Loch side.
Its a carbon bike , I have some Loctite 222 , would that work you think?
I'm not sure what Loctite 222 is but theadlock and studlock products are not suitable since they are anaerobic and don't plug large gaps well. They prefer capillaries such as actual threads. Just use superglue and baking soda. I've built up BBs, dropouts and headsets with that. Test it on something else first if you are skeptical.
 
OP
U

User6179

Guest
IMAG0097.jpg
I'm not sure what Loctite 222 is but theadlock and studlock products are not suitable since they are anaerobic and don't plug large gaps well. They prefer capillaries such as actual threads. Just use superglue and baking soda. I've built up BBs, dropouts and headsets with that. Test it on something else first if you are skeptical.
My frame has a crack around the cup , hard to see but a definite crack ,the crack is 5mm out from the blue seal , not sure now if I should ride it ?
 
Location
Loch side.
View attachment 86494

My frame has a crack around the cup , hard to see but a definite crack ,the crack is 5mm out from the blue seal , not sure now if I should ride it ?
Ride it. That's not a crack. There's an aluminium cup in there and the flexion is different between the two areas with a sharp transition, which causes the paint to crack. Nothing wrong with the bike.
 

accountantpete

Legendary Member
Photo Winner
Under the bearing you have and angled ledge which mates with the angled bevel on the outside of the bearing - are you saying that the angled ledge has worn down?
 
OP
U

User6179

Guest
Ride it. That's not a crack. There's an aluminium cup in there and the flexion is different between the two areas with a sharp transition, which causes the paint to crack. Nothing wrong with the bike.
Thanks for the reassurance , will get some Baking soda tomorrow , found some superglue .:okay:
 
OP
U

User6179

Guest
Under the bearing you have and angled ledge which mates with the angled bevel on the outside of the bearing - are you saying that the angled ledge has worn down?
More like the whole cup has got bigger or went oval ,don't know if through wear or it has bent out of shape ,I see cube have now went to semi integrated on the top for their bikes so I wonder if there has been a few issues .
 
Last edited by a moderator:

Spizz 23

Senior Member
The integrated cup in top of my frame that the bearings sit in has worn and now I cant get the play out of the steering.
Used Google for a fix but only thing I can find is to use epoxy resin to fix the sealed bearings in place which am not sure is a good idea or not .
Frame has done under 10000 miles and was a warranty replacement 2 years ago so I doubt I would get another though I have noted that the new version Cube Agree GTC has a semi integrated headset on the top instead of fully integrated one so I guess there has been problems with them.

Before I use the Epoxy resin has anyone had any experience of using the stuff , I don't want to use it and not be able to remove the cartridge bearing when it needs replaced .

I have a similar problem with my aluminium frame bike, I am going to give a product called Chemical metal a try made by Plastic Padding from Sweden, it even says on the box ..'.This' ll fix it. '.. , so It must work !!
 

Smokin Joe

Legendary Member
More like the whole cup has got bigger or went oval ,don't know if through wear or it has bent out of shape ,I see cube have now went to semi integrated on the top for their bikes so I wonder if there has been a few issues .
Possibly you've been riding with play in the headset and the movement of the bearing has ground down the aluminium seat in the frame?
 
OP
U

User6179

Guest
Possibly you've been riding with play in the headset and the movement of the bearing has ground down the aluminium seat in the frame?
Possible that's what has happened , I did drop my handlebars lower last year and was not long after I started getting problems , the cup is definitely wider than it should be now and no amount of tension takes out the play , just remembered as well though that I had bought the bearings for the headset 3 years ago as my previous frame had similar issues , I assumed it was the bearings then but I never changed them then as the frame cracked around BB and Cube said they would replace it under warranty , the original frame had about the same amount of miles on it ( 8000 ) , when I got my bike back with new frame Cube had supplied new headset and forks and new BB , my mate who had the same bike btw also got a warranty replacement with the same issue a few months ago even though the bike was out of warranty , cant fault Cubes warranty and customer service and I have had 16000 miles now over the two frames , maybe time for a new bike :smile:
 

accountantpete

Legendary Member
Photo Winner
You can only get play if the angled ledge has worn away but I can't see how this can happen as that is hard wearing metal.

The bearing seats itself on the angled ledge - the outside of the bearing doesn't need to make contact with anything else and in fact shouldn't do so.
 
OP
U

User6179

Guest
You can only get play if the angled ledge has worn away but I can't see how this can happen as that is hard wearing metal.

The bearing seats itself on the angled ledge - the outside of the bearing doesn't need to make contact with anything else and in fact shouldn't do so.
I understand what your saying and it makes sense but last night I decided to try something before trying gluing and the Bicarbonate that yellowsaddle recommended , I wrapped insulation tape round the outside of the bearing and dropped it in the cup , tightened everything up and I just did a very bumpy 30 miler , No play in the headset whatsoever , was expecting it loosen up at some point but is still fine when I got back .

I don't expect the tape to last but it proves I think that either the cups have worn or the cane creek bearing 40 series I put in are slightly smaller than the TH industry 873 bearing I took out even though they should be compatable !?
I am thinking I should order the original bearing type just in case !?
 
Location
Loch side.
You can only get play if the angled ledge has worn away but I can't see how this can happen as that is hard wearing metal.

The bearing seats itself on the angled ledge - the outside of the bearing doesn't need to make contact with anything else and in fact shouldn't do so.
It is not the bearing that wears away, but the seat. Remember, these bearings fit in there by slip fit - in other words, relatively loose. Anything that's not press-fit does move and does abrade (with the help of grit) away the seat. Integrated headsets are a very stupid idea in my opinion.

We have a similar issue with press-fit BBs but here the problem is semi-solved by bearings fitted into soft plastic cups which are then press-fitted inside the carbon BB tube. this creates a better fit, albeit not perfect, which is evident from the creaking and groaning from these BBs.

A bearing has to seat well and it is difficult to machine a good seat in carbon. For instance, the BB standard, BB30 had to adapt when carbon bikes came along. In the aluminium version the bearings could sit directly on the frame. In the carbon version the BB shell is even more oversized and the two bearings are first seated in plastic cup and then in the frame. The plastic cup makes up for frame imperfections.

I hope with enough warrantee claims, the stupid trend will be reversed.
 
Top Bottom