Is this wheel troo thing any good?

[BigonaBianchi]

http://www.bicycle-mountain-bike-cycle.co.uk/index.php/product/workstands/tacx_workstand/T3175.html

seems cheaper than atrooing wheel...but then again it looks like a couple of upturned shelving bars from B&Q...erm...worth a go do you reckon?..or should I just take both wheels down the lbs ?

 

[fossyant]

Made by Tacx so it's fine....

 

[Crackle]

Is this gonna be you from now on BTFB? BTFB to BoB or BOaB.

Looks good that stand.

 

[BigonaBianchi]

Ok..ta..I think I may get it.

..well Ill get BTFB to get it then I can borrow it for free.

 

[jimboalee]

Here is a Truing Jig,

25 x 6 mild steel plate, drillings and a bit of work with a file.

Here is a Dishing Tool,

Plywood and a bolt.

- works for me. Even SIDEWAYS. Please tip head over to view properly.

 

[Bigtallfatbloke]

I need to learn how to 'dish'. I am managing to get the wheels less wobbly (L/R) but now they have up/down jumps as they turn. I guess 'dishing'is what rectifies that?

Also I think I have tightened the wheel spokes just about as tight as they can go in th eprocess of getting the wobble out...not sure if that is a good thing or not? I rode the bike a few hundred metres after this and could hear pings coming from the front spokes...maybe they are over tight?

One question...are there spokes that have reverse threads? I seem to have several spokes that tighten in a different direction to others on the same side of the wheel. I had a couple replaced in germany...could it be that they have different threads?...or am I just getting this all mixed up?

By the way...this is on my Galaxy...that BOAB nob wont let me near the Bianchi yet

 

[Vapin' Joe]

1/ Dishing is getting the rim of the rear wheel central between the locknuts on the spindle. It will be offset to the hub because of the space taken by the cassette.

2/ If you are having trouble getting the rim true or concentric it is best not to keep tightening the spokes, instead slacken them all off until you can just see the thread on each spoke and start truing again. It takes practice to get the wheel true with an even spoke tension, don't just keep tightening and hoping for the best.

3/ All spokes have R/H threads. It can be deceptive whether you are looking at the rim from the outside or the inside as you yurn the key.

4/ The pinging is because you have not de-stressed the spokes as you are tightening them. After you have gone one full circle of the wheel with the spoke key, remove the wheel from the jig and lay it flat on the floor. Going round the rim with your hands at opposite points push the rim down against the spindle and you will hear the spokes ping as the wind up is released.

 

[Bigtallfatbloke]

..ok..so say I release all the spokes and staert again...how tight do I tension the first spoke up to to start with?....This all seems very much like re stringing a guitar with a warped neck and using the truss rod to set the neck dip properly...but then I know my A string needs to be tensioned to A440hz.

 

[P.H]

Roger Musson's book will cost you £9 to download and as well as awnsering every wheelbuilding question you could have, it'll also show you how to build the tools at a fraction of the costy of bought ones. If you don't like the book after 60 days, you can have your money back.
http://www.wheelpro.co.uk/wheelbuilding/book.php

 

[Vapin' Joe]

..ok..so say I release all the spokes and staert again...how tight do I tension the first spoke up to to start with?....This all seems very much like re stringing a guitar with a warped neck and using the truss rod to set the neck dip properly...but then I know my A string needs to be tensioned to A440hz.

Just go half a turn at a time to begin. Once the slack is taken up reduce that to a quarter, checking for truth after every full turn of the wheel.

 

[jimboalee]

Another good book is Jobst Brandt.

If you've sized the spokes ( length ) correct, you can use a modified screwdriver to thread the nipples on loose. The modified screwdriver is a flat blade driver with the outer edges ground off to leave a central pin.
The central pin is hit by the spoke end as the nipple threads onto the spoke, The spoke end pushes the driver out of engagement.
All the spokes will be in the same ( within a gnats ) position in the nipples.
I use an electric driver for speed doing this phase of the build because the majority of the time is spent at the Truing Jig.
Once all the spokes are in, turn them all the same number of turns, right side first, and then the left side, checking with the dishing tool at each round.

I take about two hours per wheel, but a certain Steve Thornhill, ex of Dawes laced both wheels in 20 minutes!

 

[jimboalee]

Thus,

 

[dodgy]

http://www.bicycle-mountain-bike-cycle.co.uk/index.php/product/workstands/tacx_workstand/T3175.html

And the award for the worst URL for a bike shop goes to...
bicycle-mountain-bike-cycle.co.uk/ what were they thinking!

Anyway, I'm just about to buy a truing jig (see my other thread). I'm a park man (I don't mean I hang around in them, you know what I mean) normally, but the TS2 that I really like is exorbitant in this country, I could take a punt by buying from www.jensonusa.com/ where they are considerably cheaper (even taking into account the shipping), but there's a chance I'll get smacked by import duty so I'll probably go for the Minoura Workman Pro instead.

 

[dodgy]

http://www.bicycle-mountain-bike-cycle.co.uk/index.php/product/workstands/tacx_workstand/T3175.html

seems cheaper than atrooing wheel...but then again it looks like a couple of upturned shelving bars from B&Q...erm...worth a go do you reckon?..or should I just take both wheels down the lbs ?

Don't know if you've already bought this, but the cheapest I've seen it is at Pro Bike Kit - http://www.probikekit.com/display.php?code=T3175 at £26.99

Dave.