Just got my first SS

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LewisLondon

Well-Known Member
Location
SW London
Two quick questions, i'm hoping are easy to answer!

a) What tool do you carry for repairs/punctures? My other bikes are all QR, but these have nuts on the wheels (which i like for locking the bike up!). Are there any handy tools?

b) how do you i) make sure the back wheel is straight, and ii) make sure the chain is as tight as necessary?

Hopefully these are both basic questions I should already know..

(Fyi bike info for anyone who cares - got a Cinelli Tip Pista - absolutely love it! Riding it in SS at the mo, but got a flip flop hub and may try fixed soon (with brakes on, obviously). I just need to get some clips before I try that...
 
gaijintendo

gaijintendo

Veteran
Location
Scotchland
a)Regarding tools. Tannus is popular in the fixie world if if reliability is your all out endgame.

Fixing a puncture without removing the wheel is the preferred system with fixies.

b) YouTube a bit tonight? Do you have tensioners? It may help. But generally get the chain tension right. Tighten bolt. Pull other wheel with your wrench on ready to tighten, and adjust by eye.

Enjoy!
 
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L

LewisLondon

Well-Known Member
Location
SW London
gaijintendo said:
a)Regarding tools. Tannus is popular in the fixie world if if reliability is your all put endgame.

Fixing a puncture without removing the wheel is the preferred system with fixies.

b) YouTube a bit tonight? Do you have tensioners? It may help. But generally get the chain tension right. Tighten bolt. Pull other wheel with your wrench on ready to tighten, and adjust by eye.

Enjoy!
Click to expand...

Will have a look at youtube for the first part definitely! Not sure I fancy solid tyres

Re: b - don’t have tensioners, that I’m aware of! I assume I need then to “get the tension right”.
Interesting it’s just a case of “the eye test” to make sure it’s straight, i was imagining some crazy system to make sure it’s perfectly in line!
 
Cycleops

Cycleops

Legendary Member
Location
Accra, Ghana
Tannins tyres are rather marmite so have a look on here for comments.

Regarding chain tension this is what the master Sheldon Brown has to say:

When adjusting chain tension, you need to be able to turn the cranks, and so with a fixed gear or coaster brake, the rear wheel has to be off the ground. Be careful: the momentum of the rear wheel can crush a finger caught between a sprocket and the chain.

Start by installing the wheel at approximately the correct position and tightening the axle nuts. They don't need to be super tight at this stage, but should more than finger tight. Check the chain tension and wheel alignment.

Most likely, the chain will be a bit loose, but perhaps the wheel is correctly aligned. Loosen the right-side axle nut and push the tire to the side so that the right end of the axle moves to the rear, then tighten the axle nut you loosened.

Now the chain tension should be better, but the wheel is no longer centered between the chainstays. Loosen the left-side axle nut and re-center the wheel in the frame. This will tighten the chain a little bit more. Repeat as needed. The key is to keep one or the other of the axle nuts tight at all times, and "walk" the wheel forward and back.

This takes a bit of practice and getting used to how much axle movement is needed to adjust a given amount of chain droop, but it isn't really hard as long as you keep one side secured at all times. Note, this technique doesn't work with a quick-release hub, but those are generally easier anyway.

The chain should droop as little as possible without your feeling feel increased resistance as you turn the crank.

If you get the chain a bit too tight, tighten the right-side axle nut partway. Tap the middle of the top run of the chain with the wrench to move the rear wheel forward just the tiny bit needed to make the chain run smoothly. The wheel will then be skewed, and you need to readjust the left end of the axle, but this has little effect on the chain.

If the chain is badly worn, adjusting it just short of binding will result in rough running and low efficiency, because it will not engage the teeth of the sprocket evenly. A new chain on a worn sprocket also will run roughly. Check the chain and sprocket for wear and replace as needed.
 
gaijintendo

gaijintendo

Veteran
Location
Scotchland
You get a few tensioners. Bolts pushing the wheel back, or (I have bmx style lives) plates with a couple of bolts quick pull the wheel backwards.

You don't need them, but it makes things slightly more precision, and I guess, stable, but the bolt should be doing all that work.

I'm happy if the wheel spins without hitting a brake pad, and isn't wobbly. I do that without much precision, in <5 mins. I let my chain have a bit of squeeze to it, but adjust when the cranks feel lose between moving and slowing, or standing.

Don't be daunted by it, that's the main thing.
 
Cycleops

Cycleops

Legendary Member
Location
Accra, Ghana
Haven't heard of those before Martin. So Googled it.

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Sharky

Sharky

Guru
Location
Kent
Carry a very small adjustable spanner in my bag, just to get me home.
 
Dave Davenport

Dave Davenport

Guru
Location
Hampshire
I carry a cut down (to fit in seat bag) ring spanner, using a ring spanner as opposed to an open end one makes it easy to use your foot to undo the nut if it's a bit tight. It only takes a couple of minutes more to remove/refit a fixed rear wheel as opposed to a QR one in my experience.
 
raleighnut

raleighnut

Legendary Member
Location
One of the 'Elite'
LewisLondon said:
Will have a look at youtube for the first part definitely! Not sure I fancy solid tyres

Re: b - don’t have tensioners, that I’m aware of! I assume I need then to “get the tension right”.
Interesting it’s just a case of “the eye test” to make sure it’s straight, i was imagining some crazy system to make sure it’s perfectly in line!
Click to expand...
If the wheel is equidistant between the chainstays then it's in line unless your frame is bent.
 
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