Kinesis 'Tripster AT' new build - what did I forget?

[Pedropete]

About to build up a new bike (Tripster AT with 2x wheelsets) and fully expect (as I always do) to reach a critical bit and realise I’ve forgotten something, probably small but important and not readily available from local retailers.

I'd be grateful if anyone could spot anything I've missed from the build list, besides the obvious grease and chain lube etc.

Frameset and main bearings

• Frame: Tripster AT - brake mounts and BB professionally faced
• Fork: Tripster AT carbon tapered, integrated race
• Headset: included FSA integrated
• Bottom bracket: Hope BSA 30mm threaded conversion
• Steerer bung: included alloy expanding bung
• Cable inserts: included internal cable inserts, guides and blanking grommets
• Frame protection: tbc.

Drivetrain

• Chainset: SRAM Force 1 BB30 crankset, Absolute Black SRAM direct mount 42t ring
• Chain: KMC 11spd (transfer)
• Cassette: SRAM XG-1150 (10-42) (transfer)
• Derailleur: SRAM Rival 1 (transfer)
• Brifters: SRAM Rival 1 HRD (transfer)
• Cables: Fibrax Pro-Formance sealed

Braking

• Callipers: Hope RX4, SRAM, flat-mount front and rear
• Pads: Hope organic
• Hoses: SRAM (transfer)
• Hose fittings: barbs, olives and seals included with callipers
• Rotors: 4x Shimano RT81 (transfer)
• Fluid: DOT 5.1, 250ml

Contact points

• Stem: Thomson Elite X4, 80mm, 0 deg
• Bars: Ritchey Evo Max 44cm
• Bar tape: ODI performance 3.5mm
• Bar gels: Fizik Technogel 2
• Plugs: Pro alloy (transfer)
• Seatpost: Thomson Elite, 27.2 x 410
• Seat clamp: Hope alloy
• Saddle: Specialized Avatar Comp (transfer)
• Pedals: Shimano A530 touring (transfer)
  
• Misc: electrical tape for cables beneath bar tape

Wheels & tyres

• Wheels: 2x sets of Hunt 4 Seasons Gravel Discs, pre-taped with tubeless valves (transfer)
• Tyres: 2x WTB Riddler 700x45, 2x Panaracer GravelKing 700x38
• Sealant: Orange Sealant Endurance 16oz

STILL NEEDED

• In-line barrel adjuster for rear mech
• Steerer spacers
• Zip ties or foam sleeving for internal cable runs
• Carbon grip (thanks Milkfloat!)
• Frame protection film
• DS chainstay protector/wrap
• Enigma custom Ti frame

 

[Tenacious Sloth]

I’m assuming the frame build kit will include a crown race, or maybe the fork already has one built-in?

Graham

 

[Pedropete]

Yep, integrated race on the fork - had me wondering the same for a while though. Facepalm moment when I realised.

 

[Tenacious Sloth]

I’ve just built a Kinesis GfTI Disc frame up in the past couple of weeks.

This frame also has internal cable routing and the one thing that surprised me was that the hollow tubing they provided inserted through the downtube through which you can feed your cable inners, weren’t threaded how I would have expected.

I expected the tube fed through the top-right port to emerge from the bottom-left port, and the top-left to feed the bottom-right. This would enable you to feed your gear cable outer from the shifters around the front of the headtube into the opposite-side frame port. I think the front cabling looks a lot cleaner/smoother routed this way and it is easier to prevent the outer from rubbing the headtube.

I’ve left them how they were routed by Kinesis for the time being but think I may switch them around next time I replace the cables.

I’d be interested to hear if yours are routed the same way as mine were?

Graham.

 

[Pedropete]

That's really useful feedback, thank you. Will let you know what I find.

 

[jowwy]

About to build up a new bike (Tripster AT with 2x wheelsets) and fully expect (as I always do) to reach a critical bit and realise I’ve forgotten something, probably small but important and not readily available from local retailers.

I'd be grateful if anyone could spot anything I've missed from the build list, besides the obvious grease and chain lube etc.

Frameset and main bearings

• Frame: Tripster AT - brake mounts and BB professionally faced
• Fork: Tripster AT carbon tapered, integrated race
• Headset: included FSA integrated
• Bottom bracket: Hope BSA 30mm threaded conversion
• Steerer bung: included alloy expanding bung
• Cable inserts: included internal cable inserts, guides and blanking grommets
• Frame protection: tbc.

Drivetrain

• Chainset: SRAM Force 1 BB30 crankset, Absolute Black SRAM direct mount 42t ring
• Chain: KMC 11spd (transfer)
• Cassette: SRAM XG-1150 (10-42) (transfer)
• Derailleur: SRAM Rival 1 (transfer)
• Brifters: SRAM Rival 1 HRD (transfer)
• Cables: Fibrax Pro-Formance sealed

Braking

• Callipers: Hope RX4, SRAM, flat-mount front and rear
• Pads: Hope organic
• Hoses: SRAM (transfer)
• Hose fittings: barbs, olives and seals included with callipers
• Rotors: 4x Shimano RT81 (transfer)
• Fluid: DOT 5.1, 250ml

Contact points

• Stem: Thomson Elite X4, 80mm, 0 deg
• Bars: Ritchey Evo Max 44cm
• Bar tape: ODI performance 3.5mm
• Bar gels: Fizik Technogel 2
• Plugs: Pro alloy (transfer)
• Seatpost: Thomson Elite, 27.2 x 410
• Seat clamp: Hope alloy
• Saddle: Specialized Avatar Comp (transfer)
• Pedals: Shimano A530 touring (transfer)
  
• Misc: electrical tape for cables beneath bar tape

Wheels & tyres

• Wheels: 2x sets of Hunt 4 Seasons Gravel Discs, pre-taped with tubeless valves (transfer)
• Tyres: 2x WTB Riddler 700x45, 2x Panaracer GravelKing 700x38
• Sealant: Orange Sealant Endurance 16oz

STILL NEEDED

• In-line barrel adjuster for rear mech
• Steerer spacers
• Zip ties or foam sleeving for internal cable runs
• Frame protection film
• DS chainstay protector/wrap
• Enigma custom Ti frame

switch mechanical for di2 or etap and your good to go

 

[Milkfloat]

Assuming you are tooled up (bleed kit, cassette tool, saw, pedal spanner etc) and chemical'ed up (carbon grip, grease etc) then you look good to go to me.

 

[Pedropete]

switch mechanical for di2 or etap and your good to go

Tempting but going to wait for 12spd etap... and a lottery win

Assuming you are tooled up (bleed kit, cassette tool, saw, pedal spanner etc) and chemical'ed up (carbon grip, grease etc) then you look good to go to me.

Carbon grip, well spotted! Thank you.

Seems to be a distinct lack of tea, CAIK, biccies and gin on that list...

Crikey, I feel like a bit of a fool for missing those. Probably a bottle of rye for me rather than gin though.

 

[Levo-Lon]

Well it's 3 pm ? I assume your out riding.
Or is this all waiting on a barrel adjuster?

 

[Tenacious Sloth]

Carbon grip, well spotted! Thank you.

If your seatpost is alloy you shouldn’t really need carbon grip. Grease will do.

Graham

 

[Salty seadog]

Seems to be a distinct lack of tea, CAIK, biccies and gin on that list...

Crikey, I feel like a bit of a fool for missing those. Probably a bottle of rye for me rather than gin though.

You'd need balls of steel and the bit between your teeth if you like caik.

 

[Pedropete]

If your seatpost is alloy you shouldn’t really need carbon grip. Grease will do.
Graham

Carbon steerer, so carbon-to-alloy = paste required.

You'd need balls of steel and the bit between your teeth if you like caik.

What, you mean the Centre for Advancement of Indigenous Knowedge? Seemed a little refined for this forum I’ll admit, but hardly ball clenching. Unless, you meant...

 

[Tenacious Sloth]

Carbon steerer, so carbon-to-alloy = paste required.

My understanding is that carbon paste is used to prevent slippage under load. Most of the carbon pastes have small grippy bits in them that help prevent slipping. This is particularly important for seatposts, which are under a reasonably high load with the weight of the rider but cannot be torqued to high values do to the fragility of the carbon stem.

The Stem/steerer combination is under tiny loads in comparison and doesn’t really need any help to prevent movement at lowish torque values. In fact, many builders particularly avoid the use of carbon paste in the headset area due to the small risk of getting the ‘gripping bits’ that are suspended in the paste into the upper headset bearing. I think the risk of this happening is tiny, but as there is no requirement for the extra grip anyway, I don’t use paste. I have two bikes with carbon steerer sand alloy stems and neither have moved at all when torqued to the recommend 5 Nm.

It’s your build though and I’m sure it’ll be fine whatever you do.

As an aside, you can get some carbon pastes that don’t have ‘bits’ in them. Motorex Carbon Paste Is a popular example.

Graham

 

[Heltor Chasca]

This is an interesting post. It’s a good reference list for others buying up bits for their own builds.

 

[Levo-Lon]

Carbon paste is excellent stuff.
It certainly works on er carbon. Far less torque required for a solid fitting bar or post.