Lockring overtight/seized

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Summerking

Veteran
Location
Cornwall
I seem to be struggling with this lockring, its on an Orange Sub 5 with hollowtech cranks that hasn,t seen maintenance for some years by the looks of everything. I have a 'C' lockring tool that only engages one slot in the lockring at a time and I have so far managed to round off 2 of the slots through sheer force.. and have left it before I wreck it completely, does anyone have any tips for undoing this this? I have let it sit in Gt85 but it might as well be olive oil for all the difference it has made.
thankyou in advance.
Summer.
P180613_19.12.jpg
 

Tim Hall

Guest
Location
Crawley
GT85 isn't really much good for this sort of thing. Plus Gas or other penetrating oil is what you need. Instead of a C spanner you need a tool that engages in all tabs at once, like this from Park Tools. Finally, make sure you're turning it the right way.
 

Tim Hall

Guest
Location
Crawley
thanks Tim, I was turning it to the right to undo it? as you look at it in the picture
Depends which side of the bike it is. For those, like me, who get confused by this left/right malarky, bottom brackets* undo by moving the handle of the spanner towards the front of the bike, pedals towards the back.

* assuming a "British" threaded bottom bracket, with right hand thread on the left side, left hand thread on the right.
 
OP
OP
Summerking

Summerking

Veteran
Location
Cornwall
Depends which side of the bike it is. For those, like me, who get confused by this left/right malarky, bottom brackets* undo by moving the handle of the spanner towards the front of the bike, pedals towards the back.

* assuming a "British" threaded bottom bracket, with right hand thread on the left side, left hand thread on the right.
err it would appear I have been tightening the blessed thing all along...thanks for putting me straight, if it wasn't tight before it SURE is now doh:wacko:
 
OP
OP
Summerking

Summerking

Veteran
Location
Cornwall
I finally undid it..
P190613_11.50_[02].jpg

I used a long nut and bolt to secure the Hub tool and a piece of innertube between the washer and the hub to help it grip as per the Park tools video above, and borrowed a piece of scaffolding to extend the spanners leverage, after double checking and checking again which was the right way to turn it, on the non-drive side it was turned anticlockwise to undo and the drive side was clockwise, when looking at the bike upright, it was undone with the bike upside down to help steady it, It took all my strength plus the scaffold tube to finally get it moving and to keep it moving,I reckon 20 minutes of hard effort..the drive side was much easier, all in all a good result, new sealed Bottom Bracket in the post £20, beats the £60 wanted by my Lbs bless their socks:smile:
 

02GF74

Über Member
wow - lucky you and good job!!! you may want to refit the new part with a smear of grease and do it tight but not bloody tight.

and also remember the right hand crank - the one that is used by your right foot has left hand thread i.e. you undo it clockwise.

and for future reference, the pedal threads are opposite to the crank - the left had pedal has left hand thread.
 
OP
OP
Summerking

Summerking

Veteran
Location
Cornwall
wow - lucky you and good job!!! you may want to refit the new part with a smear of grease and do it tight but not bloody tight.
thanks :smile: 02GF74,
I'll be sure NOT to use the scaffold pole when installing the new bottom bracket as I don't want to go through that again in a hurry
 
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