Loose Bottom Bracket. Sugino Impel. Tools and Method advice please.
- Thread starter Mr Cotter Pin
- Start date
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Mr Cotter Pin
Active Member
Hi Overmind, thank you for your replay and link. The spindles, cups and locking ring all look very familiar to me. They take me back to my youth and days when specialist tools were not 'always' necessary.
I will definately being giving this some consideration. Good price too.
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OP
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Mr Cotter Pin
Active Member
Hello Gunk, thank you for you response. I have the spline tool now in order to extract the cup. Hoping mine won't need as much brute force as yours did.
In comparison to your long bar I have a standard spanner, something tells me I going to have a tough time ahead.
Nice to see your blue CB Majestic, coincidently, in my search for a 'new' main bike, I opted for a CB Majestic, (light gold in colour) mine has the older BB with the outer locking nut. I believe it was made in 1982.
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OP
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Mr Cotter Pin
Active Member
My earnest recommendation to you is to whip it out and replace. Then enjoy trying to break into the cartridge bearing and exploring its refurbishment. The last one of these I pulled out of an MTB (last month) was in a shocking state (bike from tip before lockdown). Extraction (left side) was brutal (vital to hold tool splines in place). A UN-55 screwed in easily (after thorough clean-up and with grease (obv)) and bike is now being ridden.
In my opinion, you are overthinking this. The 20-spline tool will get out the BB you have in there; and screw it back in (refurbished) or its replacement. Your mention of a Sugino CBB-SG75 BB is a red herring (but 'yes' the tool will fit that too).
Sheldon advice on the taper on the square taper needed:
So I'd procure a UN-300 in (assume) 113mm flavour (but better to measure first). Spa Cycles have Stronglight equivalent.
'97 Impel 5-bolt Triple 110-113 Square 110/74 2001
From this link: "Brand new for 2016, Sugino has introduced the CBB-SG75. This is the sealed bearing version of the Sugino 75 keirin track racing bottom bracket set. It is for 68mm-width bottom bracket shell frames and has a 111mm symmetrical axle, BSC thread with ISO taper."
Does your chainset need a JIS or an ISO square taper BB? Sheldon From there:
"J.I.S. models include:
- Sugino (except N.J.S. track models and some older units.)"
Hello Ajax Bay,
Thanks for your reply and link to Sheldon. Not sure what I will need JIS/ISO wise. I will be getting on with the job today so I should know once I have the BB in my hands. Assuming I can successfully remove it.
Oh and thank you for the link to the BB-UN300. That looks very smart and not too pricey either.
Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
Now you have the tool, I'd just reiterate John's advice. Or a helper's foot to hold the tool in (frame laid horizontal on ground with a block underneath the other side of the BB shell) while you give it beans (shock action if all available leverage won't shift it).
OP
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Mr Cotter Pin
Active Member
Thanks for the reminder Ajax Bay.
Mine was a project which I did over Christmas, shame the frame was so large as I would have kept it a while and enjoyed it.
The chap who bought it absolutely loves it and has sent me a couple of updates, it’s now wearing mudguards and a pannier rack and is being used daily in central London.
andrew_s
Legendary Member
- Location
- Gloucester
The 20-spline tools are all made to the same pattern as Shimano's, so if it looks the same, it's OK.
As noted, cartridge BBs can need a lot of torque* to remove, so it's important that the tool is held in place with a bolt in to the end of the spindle.
Unfortunately the crank bolt thread is M8 Fine rather than standard M8, so it's not as simple as going in to B&Q for a longer bolt and some washers - you'll have to go to a proper fasterners supplier and make sure you ask for the right thing.
Alternatively, there's the Pedro's tool
* The last one I had trouble with had me jumping on the end of a 32 mm ring spanner - somewhere in the 250-300 nm range.
As noted, cartridge BBs can need a lot of torque* to remove, so it's important that the tool is held in place with a bolt in to the end of the spindle.
Unfortunately the crank bolt thread is M8 Fine rather than standard M8, so it's not as simple as going in to B&Q for a longer bolt and some washers - you'll have to go to a proper fasterners supplier and make sure you ask for the right thing.
Alternatively, there's the Pedro's tool
* The last one I had trouble with had me jumping on the end of a 32 mm ring spanner - somewhere in the 250-300 nm range.
DRM
Guru
- Location
- West Yorks
Yes, This DAMHIK,
as I put earlier, for a couple of quid get the crank bolts too, It saves a lot of hassle.
fossyant
Ride It Like You Stole It!
- Location
- South Manchester
SJS Cycles for the Un300 73mm 113mm axel.
Not much else out there. Just ordered one.
Not much else out there. Just ordered one.
matticus
Guru
Good point (luckily they're still v cheap)👍
OP
OP
Mr Cotter Pin
Active Member
Hello Gunk, looks like a fine job. Nice photo. That is the sort of bike that catches my eye. I see what you mean by frame size, it is large. I'm guessing you would have to be over 6ft to appreciate that size frame?
OP
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Mr Cotter Pin
Active Member
Hello all and thanks for the continued contributions.
Update.
I was unsuccessful when I attepted to get the cup out. l bolted the tool in place, so keeping the tool in place is not the problem.
I used large mole grips as they were the only spanner/tool I had that was large enough to grip the tool. I was able to attach the mole grips to the tool and stand/jump on it to apply the 'beans' but instead of it moving the cup it would unattach itself.
I have since got my hands on a medium size pipe wrench which I am hoping will give me enough leverage to shift the cup. I'll put up some pictures in due course.
Apologies for not updating until now.
Thanks all.
And take care.
Update.
I was unsuccessful when I attepted to get the cup out. l bolted the tool in place, so keeping the tool in place is not the problem.
I used large mole grips as they were the only spanner/tool I had that was large enough to grip the tool. I was able to attach the mole grips to the tool and stand/jump on it to apply the 'beans' but instead of it moving the cup it would unattach itself.
I have since got my hands on a medium size pipe wrench which I am hoping will give me enough leverage to shift the cup. I'll put up some pictures in due course.
Apologies for not updating until now.
Thanks all.
And take care.
DRM
Guru
- Location
- West Yorks
Mole grips are no good at all for that, if you can go to a DIY store and get a spanner that fits the tool, they're not that expensive and better than hurting yourself, the pipe wrench may slip too, be careful
Ajax Bay
Guru
- Location
- East Devon
As @andrew_s says (Edit: and assume he is a heavy lad of 100+kg and his "32mm spanner" was actually 0.32m long 
), you may need to exert 300Nm of controlled torque. Better to set yourself up to overmatch that. Every element of the unscrewing chain needs to be able to take it, and reiterate @DRM 's advice above. Plus a length of steel pipe, perhaps.
), you may need to exert 300Nm of controlled torque. Better to set yourself up to overmatch that. Every element of the unscrewing chain needs to be able to take it, and reiterate @DRM 's advice above. Plus a length of steel pipe, perhaps.
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