M324 Shimano Pedals - Tension setting L/R pedal

[gunja99]

Well I eventually took the plunge of bought some SPD shoes yesterday (apparently Addidas pumps aren't the worn thing on 75 mile group rides!)... https://www.evanscycles.com/specialized-sport-rbx-road-shoe-EV285780 Specialized RBX Road shoe. Fit well, and all good (went to an LBS for the first time, and found them very helpful).

Anyway, I got home keen to try than on the pedals I bought a while ago (Shimano M324 https://road.cc/content/review/4272-shimano-pd-m324-flatspd-pedal), got the cleats on, and tried them in the location the guy at the shop recommended. I'm not planning on going outside till the weekend (when have time to get to a park and have soft landing around me), so sat on bike with sofa and walls next to me inside to test them.

I really struggled to get them to click (I know this will come with experience and time), but boy was it hard, and one of the pedals I just couldn't twist my foot out at all. Reading the instructions it shows the adjustment 3mm allen key thing, and a slider gauge to show how tight or loose the spring is set. OK that's fine, and I played with it. But... It seems to be the opposite way round on the other pedal. i.e. turning clockwise on one makes it stronger, and clockwise on the other makes it looser. Is this right? I assumed it'd be the same direction? The instructions just show it one way, and no note that it's reversed on the other pedal. The picture shows the right pedal, please can someone confirm.

BTW I'm using the cleats that came with the pedals, which are silver, apparently you can get black ones, which I may do in future when used to it.

It was so tight I had to actually unvelcro and leave the shoe in place, and then loosen the bolt to twist the shoe out!

 

[vickster]

Loose as possible with new cleats. Shimano pedals have +/- for adjusting the tension? Turn all the way to minus on both pedals
If you still can't manage with the twist, change to SH56 multi-directional cleats perhaps. If you already have these, you should be able to remove the foot by just pulling up once you have the tension looser

Why on earth do you need black cleats? I don't know if the 51 & 56 are different colour (I think my 51s have all be silver, but think I have had black ones too!)

 

[gunja99]

Loose as possible with new cleats. Shimano pedals have +/- for adjusting the tension? Turn all the way to minus on both pedals
If you still can't manage with the twist, change to SH56 multi-directional cleats perhaps.

Why on earth do you need black cleats?

Are both pedal adjusters the same, that's my main question ( I should have just asked that). i.e. clockwise on both pedals to loosen (or tighten not got the instructions here at work), or is it opposite, as it seemed to be.

But your main advice is to loosen all the way especially whilst starting out on something I've never done before!

 

[vickster]

Are both pedal adjusters the same, that's my main question ( I should have just asked that). i.e. clockwise on both pedals to loosen (or tighten not got the instructions here at work), or is it opposite, as it seemed to be.

But your main advice is to loosen all the way especially whilst starting out on something I've never done before!

Is there no +/- next to the allen key hole (there is on 520s for example, I don't know on M324, I sold the bike fitted with those)

Yes, loose as possible obviously as it's easier to get your foot out quickly (and it is very unlikely to come out accidentally and it's not an issue if it does anyhow, just clip back in)!!

 

[vickster]

Take a photo of the actual pedal and post it (there are also YouTube videos which may help).

 

[gunja99]

Found the instructions online https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-41N0G-001-00.pdf top right of first page section. Shows the right pedal. It seems left is opposite way round for the turning, and the indicator. But doesn't say that in instructions?

 

[gunja99]

BTW very helpful as always vickster, thanks! Hoping they double me speed due to push AND pull

 

[vickster]

BTW very helpful as always vickster, thanks! Hoping they double me speed due to push AND pull

They’ll have no impact on your speed in reality I’m afraid.

 

[gunja99]

They’ll have no impact on your speed in reality I’m afraid.

yeah know that really, just hoping, though apparently help with climbs, we'll see. Checked this morning and got the bike 20th June, so still a newbie

 

[vickster]

Just be careful on steep inclines as it’s more likely you’ll have a clipless moment if you come to a halt and clipping back in is hard. The adv of the M324 is you can ride those pedals without clipping in

 

[gunja99]

Just be careful on steep inclines as it’s more likely you’ll have a clipless moment if you come to a halt and clipping back in is hard. The adv of the M324 is you can ride those pedals without clipping in

Yeah thanks for that, will just take my time. Part of the reason got the 324's was due to being able to use them either way. The bike did come with A520's, which took off, and put these one. Plan for the 324's to go on my old Hybrid BSO in time, and put the 520s on the Triban. Eeeek, I just expected it to be a little easier! Can't wait to try em TBH, but scared at same time (then again I've gotten used to drop brakes in no time)

 

[rogerzilla]

M324s have a fairly traditional design where the bearings are hard to service, unlike other SPDs, where the whole lot comes out by removing a plastic or metal collar. Specifically, the cone and locknut are recessed so a special tool (£30-40) is required to tighten the cone against the locknut. They do have more bearing balls than other SPDs (good) but develop slop quite rapidly in use (bad).

I have a couple of pairs, as does my riding mate, so it was worth buying the tool. Still a fiddly job, although I have reassembly of one pedal down to about 15 minutes now.

 

[gunja99]

M324s have a fairly traditional design where the bearings are hard to service, unlike other SPDs, where the whole lot comes out by removing a plastic or metal collar. Specifically, the cone and locknut are recessed so a special tool (£30-40) is required to tighten the cone against the locknut. They do have more bearing balls than other SPDs (good) but develop slop quite rapidly in use (bad).

I have a couple of pairs, as does my riding mate, so it was worth buying the tool. Still a fiddly job, although I have reassembly of one pedal down to about 15 minutes now.

Sounds well above me, and TBH I'm struggling with the tension adjusters, so servicing a pedal... Wow derailuers still getting me head round, hopefully a while until I need to worry about that Or maybe I'll switch to SPD-SL's at some point, if still cycling next year and get an N+1

 

[Drago]

About 1/3 from the loosest setting with new cleats. Anything looser delays the cleats (and a new pedal) from bedding in, and gives a false sense of security - they'll release just when you least want them too, which can make your eyes water.

 

[figbat]

Found the instructions online https://si.shimano.com/pdfs/si/SI-41N0G-001-00.pdf top right of first page section. Shows the right pedal. It seems left is opposite way round for the turning, and the indicator. But doesn't say that in instructions?

I've just been out and inspected mine. It looks like both sides are the same - as the red indicator moves closer to the adjusting bolt head, the tension increases. The adjusting bolts both appear to be conventionally-threaded so I surmise that they should work the same on both sides.