Maintenance Schedule

[Markymark]

My commuter is a Sirrus sport. I do around 2,500 miles a year on it and it's done around 10K miles lifetime.

Yearly I change the rear cassette and chain (done last week). When the chain was off I noticed the rear derailleur was not running freely so I took it apart, cleaned it and seems better. I have also since noticed the large chain ring looks pretty worn. I only ever use the largest (of 3) so the other 2 are pristine.

My questions are:

1. Should I replace the jockey wheels/derailleur by now or is the clean sufficient?
2. I will change the large chain ring, I assume I can buy just the one and leave the others or do they only come in sets?
3. As I'll never need the other 2 is there any benefit to switching to a single ring or is that unnecessary work?
4. Whilst the cranks are off anyway, should I replace anything else?

Not too worried about costs, just don't want to do unnecessary replacements.

 

[alecstilleyedye]

if the stripdown of the mech has fixed it, it should be good to go. try and lubricate it regularly. if you are only using the big ring, put a single chainring on the front (you'll need to change the bottom bracket; job for a bikeshop if you don't have the tools)…

 

[Markymark]

if the stripdown of the mech has fixed it, it should be good to go. try and lubricate it regularly. if you are only using the big ring, put a single chainring on the front (you'll need to change the bottom bracket; job for a bikeshop if you don't have the tools)…

Thanks. Is there a benefit to changing to single ring rather than just only using one?

 

[alecstilleyedye]

weight saving (if that's an issue), and also less to go wrong with one less mech and one less cable…

 

[lpretro1]

Nor worth bothering to faff around - if your fd cable breaks you'll be glad it is there...Jockey wheels if they are worn change them - not expensive - the TACX ones are good value for money

 

[the snail]

If it's all working ok and not got to the totally knackered stage, then you can probably just clean and lube and carry on. Chain rings can be used until they're very worn indeed without problems. You might be able to turn the chainring round on the spider to extend it's life, because the rings tend to wear most at the points where you're pushing hard on the pedals. Also bear in mind that the bigger chain rings have funny shaped teeth, so look "worn" to the untrained eye compared with the little chainring.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Post a picture of your 'worn' large chainring if you want a view from the many 'trained eyes' hereabouts eg @the snail . Or compare yours with some images on other similar threads eg Post #7 on http://www.cyclechat.net/threads/slippy-drive-train.197867/

 

[Markymark]

Post a picture of your 'worn' large chainring if you want a view from the many 'trained eyes' hereabouts eg @the snail . Or compare yours with some images on other similar threads eg Post #7 on http://www.cyclechat.net/threads/slippy-drive-train.197867/

Will do. I'll take it off at the weekend and post can pic unless a shot of a few of the teeth would suffice?

 

[Markymark]

** new question **

Do I need a torque wrench to replace cranks? I have hex that fits and can tighten pretty tight, is that accurate enough? All yt vids recommend specific torque.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Do I need a torque wrench to replace cranks?

What make/marque of crankset (optional Q: what sort of bottom bracket)?

 

[Markymark]

What make/marque of crankset (optional Q: what sort of bottom bracket)?

Shimano

Optional bit: round. Other than that no idea!!

 

[Ajax Bay]

If this is roughly the spec (pasted below) you have a "Bottom Bracket sealed cartridge, square 68" then you don't need a torque wrench, just make sure the bolt is not cross threaded (you should be able to screw it in by hand easily to start with) and tighten it up tight using no more than the allen key, and then worth it to 'tap' the crank (above the bolt and along the bolt line ie towards the BB) with a wooden or plastic hammer, and then tighten the bolt again - it may turn a bit more. Ride. Check after 50 miles.

S Sirrus Sport 2012

Shift Levers Shimano Acera Rapidrife 9-spd
Front Derailleur Shimano Acera, 31.8 tp swng
Rear Derailleur Shimano Acera 9spd
Crankset SR Suntour XCR(you have Shimano ones)
Pedals Sirrus pedal, toe clip compat
Bottom Bracket sealed cartridge, square 68
BB Shell Width
Rear Cogs
Chain KMC x9 nickel plate
Seatpost Alloy 27.2
Saddle Body Geomety Targa Sport 155mm
Handlebar Specialized PG flat bar25.4
Handlebar Extensions
Handlebar Stem Alloy 20 degree
Headset 1 1/8" sealed

 

[Markymark]

Brilliant thank you.