Making a Rustic Wooden Table Top

[Andy in Germany]

I've mentioned elsewhere that I've gone and goot myself a new project:

The current plan is to make a 4cm deep top out of recycled pine (because that's what's available). I'd retain the existing frame which looks like it's beechwood and therefore very solid and make a basic laminated slab for the top as seen in this highly detailed digital rendering:

Given that the board should be a minimum of 40mm deep, and it'll be glued with white wood glue (often more solid than the wood), which way would people suggest making the grain run?

Crossways seems logical, especially if we only have short bits of wood in the store, but lengthways would leave less potential damage due to movement in the wood. I could get around this problem of course by making large holes on one end and putting washers under the screw threads but it seems less than ideal.

Any thoughts?

 

[Cycleops]

I'm certainly no expert with this this sort of thing but I can think of some things you might have to overcome.
Is the existing top perfectly flat? I suspect not. Maybe check with a steel straight edge. Will the recycled pine be in planks? This should help with any imperfections in the top you're fixing to but I don't know if just wood glue would be enough to fix it and hold it to the surface. Or will you make up the top before fixing? The top might have polish or other agents on it to inhibit adhesion. You could plane it but would it be flat? Could you have a secondary way of fixing, maybe screws from underneath?
Sorry not to give you any positive comments but maybe someone who's actually done something similar could offer better advice.

 

[Andy in Germany]

I'm certainly no expert with this this sort of thing but I can think of some things you might have to overcome.
Is the existing top perfectly flat? I suspect not. Maybe check with a steel straight edge. Will the recycled pine be in planks? This should help with any imperfections in the top you're fixing to but I don't know if just wood glue would be enough to fix it and hold it to the surface. Or will you make up the top before fixing? The top might have polish or other agents on it to inhibit adhesion. You could plane it but would it be flat? Could you have a secondary way of fixing, maybe screws from underneath?
Sorry not to give you any positive comments but maybe someone who's actually done something similar could offer better advice.

The top in the image above would be replaced by a new pine top. Thise would be made by gluing several pine strips together.

 

[newts]

Run the grain the long way, even if it means joining the planks lengthways (stagger the joints).
Alternate the cup of the end grain to minimise warping.

Idealy get the moisture content of the timber near to where the table will be stored/used before gluing up, this will also help with longterm stability. Allow for expansion/contraction in the top when fixing to the table frame.

 

[Andy in Germany]

Run the grain the long way, even if it means joining the planks lengthways (stagger the joints).
Alternate the cup of the end grain to minimise warping.

View attachment 654008
Idealy get the moisture content of the timber near to where the table will be stored/used before gluing up, this will also help with longterm stability. Allow for expansion/contraction in the top when fixing to the table frame.

Thanks for your reply @newts . It looks like I did my usual sloppy "If I know what I mean, so should you" posting, so here's a hopefully better description.

I'm aware of the problem of moisture, especially using a mixture of wood types of unknown vintage including pallets and probably old Ikea shelves, so my plan was to cut the wood as you suggested, and then turn it 90°, as shown in this highly detailed cross section:

This is the principle in wood we call "Tischler Holz" or "Cabinet makers wood": lots of thin strips so it is less of an issue which way the growth lines are.

I could try planing it by hand but I suspect I'll chicken out and use a sander...

 

[newts]

A well honed try plane will remove material much faster than a sander & get it flatter.
Paul sellers youtube channel is a great resource for all things woodworking, especially using hand tools.
https://www.youtube.com/c/PaulSellersWoodwork

 

[mistyoptic]

Aesthetically, the grain running lengthways would be more pleasing IMHO

 

[slowmotion]

I would run the grain lengthways. The overall movement is much less, 900/1600.

 

[Tail End Charlie]

As others have said, run the grain lengthways and alternate the end grain.

But why not just refurbish the current top? It looks OK in the first photo and beech is a better wood than pine for this purpose IMO, particularly if the pine is odds and ends. Or are you set on a much thicker top?

Either way, it's good to have a project on the go.

 

[newts]

But why not just refurbish the current top?

That's a good shout, sand back the beech & treat with oxalic acid to remove the stains. Finish off with oil or wax.

 

[Andy in Germany]

As others have said, run the grain lengthways and alternate the end grain.

But why not just refurbish the current top?

That's a good shout, sand back the beech & treat with oxalic acid to remove the stains. Finish off with oil or wax.

My impression was that it's worse than it looks in the photo , and someone cut the end off to fit it in the truck. Will have another look though.