Managing chain length when swapping cassettes

[Peter Salt]

I was wondering how others do it; what's the most popular method. Let's say you want to swap from an 11-25 cassette to a 11-32. In theory, this would require adding two links to achieve 'optimal' chain length. Options that I can think of:

1. 'I have several chains of different lengths and I swap them when changing cassettes'.

2. 'I have just one chain that is a middle ground between the two extremes'.

3. 'I have just one chain, appropriate for the smaller cassette. When swapping to a larger cassette, I extend the chain by adding extra links and an additional quick link'.

4. 'I'm not bothered by any kind of optimal length and just swap cassettes without any consideration'.

Which one are you and why?

 

[T4tomo]

5. if you put on a new cassette, you put on a new chain and size it to the correct length.

 

[Dogtrousers]

Personally, the problem doesn't arise for me. I never change cassette sizes. I just use one size, and one chain length. The idea of making my bottom gear higher fills me with horror. But that's just me.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

I fit a different bike to the different cassette

 

[presta]

I've never felt any problem with the step between adjacent gears being too large, so I chose a transmission that gives the lowest bottom gear and widest range, then stuck with it.
11-34 & 22/32/44 gives me 17.8" to 110"
I've noticed that none of the new fashion in twin chainring transmissions will give me anything like that range, but that's progress for you I suppose.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

@Peter Salt
Are you asking for the scenario where you use an 11-25 cassette this week, change to a an 11-32 next week and revert back to 11-25 the week after?
In that case each cassette should have its own chain, suitably sized.
(I did similar with a touring wheelset and a "regular" wheelset.)


If the scenario is that you are permanently upgrading from one to the other then the chain should be changed as well. And suitably sized.

 

[cougie uk]

I don't see the issue in having say a 32 sprocket and keep that on the bike.

My routes can be flattish one week and then steep Welsh hills the next. I'm not swapping cassettes all the time. And have you seen the price of them now ?

 

[TheDoctor]

I've never, ever wished my lowest gear was higher...

 

[cougie uk]

I've never, ever wished my lowest gear was higher...

I've lost track of how many times I have wished for an extra lower gear !

 

[Peter Salt]

@Peter Salt
Are you asking for the scenario where you use an 11-25 cassette this week, change to a an 11-32 next week and revert back to 11-25 the week after?
In that case each cassette should have its own chain, suitably sized.
(I did similar with a touring wheelset and a "regular" wheelset.)


If the scenario is that you are permanently upgrading from one to the other then the chain should be changed as well. And suitably sized.

Yeah, I guess it's the former - i.e. frequent swapping.

 

[fair weather cyclist]

1) 11-25 to 11-32 seems like a big jump so having one chain is out of the question.

2) Having one chain that is kind of in the middle just means you are always in a sub-optimal situation. Maybe doesn't bother you, would bother me.

Given the above points, the only reasonable thing to do is to have different chains dedicated to different cassettes. That's what I would do.

 

[SydZ]

Only time I ever change cassette sizes is on my TT bike, based on the course in question. In that case I go for option 1 plus I do, on occasion, swap chain rings too.

In other cases each bike has a cassette (or hub gear) based on its use and it stays that way.

 

[T4tomo]

2) Having one chain that is kind of in the middle just means you are always in a sub-optimal situation. Maybe doesn't bother you, would bother me.

That's a recipe for Furbarring your RD if you go anywhere near the bigger sprockets in the big ring.

 

[Ming the Merciless]

More seriously.

If you think about it, Your 11-32 cassette likely also has a 25 cog. It might be two or three down from 32 but it will be there. So assuming your rear derailleur can cope, and it has the capacity, if you size your chain for 11-32 it’ll still work on 11-25. What you’ll find is that if you have small at front and small at rear that the derailleur jockey wheels will contact the cassette or you’ll get that chain moving on chain noise. Provided you are disciplined about when to shift at the front and when to shift at the back, so you don’t get those odd combinations of large large or small small it’ll be fine.

 

[T4tomo]

More seriously.

If you think about it, Your 11-32 cassette likely also has a 25 cog. It might be two or three down from 32 but it will be there. So assuming your rear derailleur can cope, and it has the capacity, if you size your chain for 11-32 it’ll still work on 11-25. What you’ll find is that if you have small at front and small at rear that the derailleur jockey wheels will contact the cassette or you’ll get that chain moving on chain noise. Provided you are disciplined about when to shift at the front and when to shift at the back, so you don’t get those odd combinations of large large or small small it’ll be fine.

if the chain works for 34-11 on 11-32 cass it will work for 34-11 on 11-25 cassette. it just the RD will be using less of it capacity on 50-25 vs 50-32.

I dont see the point of

i.e. frequent swapping.

as Ming points out you have the range on the 11-32. unless you're time trialling and the odd extra 2 tooth jump bothers you. But defo size your chain and select your RD for the 11-32 cassette