Max tyre size for narrow rim

[Rusty Nails]

I am rebuilding an old Harry Hall road bike and would like to fit wider tyres than are currently on the wheelset I will be using.

The inner rim width is 13mm and it had 23mm tyres. I doubt that I could get away with a 700 x 28, but should I be able to fit a 25mm tyre safely.

 

[fossyant]

I've fitted 25mm to my Ribble 653 and it's as tight as I'd go - they are a really tight/short wheelbase frame. I recon my custom built Frank Herety (Franks son (John Herety) rode for Harry...oops) would possibly take 28's. Both were on 20's when I first got them.

I won't be running the Ribble with more than 25c, as it's tight. TBH tyres do vary, and some 25's can be big, but it's the 'height' that will cause the problem.

I'm running both on 25c as I'm getting older and using back roads and stuff. Works fine.

If you can fit 28mm within the frame, you'll be OK - it's not the rim that will be limiting.

 

[fossyant]

I have less than 5mm between the tyre and the chain stays on my Ribble - no buckled wheels or I am looking at re-painting... I check it every ride at the moment since the rebuild, and I'm using Dura Ace Skewers - I think It's the turbo end nut that moves on the rear.

 

[rogerzilla]

25s are fine, if the rear one doesn't rub the seat tube.

 

[Rusty Nails]

I volunteer at a community bike workshop and I think I'll borrow a couple of tyres 25mm and 28mm to see how they fit.

I should have thought of that before posting.

 

[JonT005]

Almost all frames I have had experience with should fit a 25. It may be tight but it should fit. Can't guarantee a 28, lots of road frames from around 2010 were are limited to a 25 for example.

 

[raleighnut]

I've fitted 25mm to my Ribble 653 and it's as tight as I'd go - they are a really tight/short wheelbase frame. I recon my custom built Frank Herety (Franks son (John Herety) rode for Harry...oops) would possibly take 28's. Both were on 20's when I first got them.

I won't be running the Ribble with more than 25c, as it's tight. TBH tyres do vary, and some 25's can be big, but it's the 'height' that will cause the problem.

I'm running both on 25c as I'm getting older and using back roads and stuff. Works fine.

If you can fit 28mm within the frame, you'll be OK - it's not the rim that will be limiting.

Yep similar problem on my 653 TT bike, side to side clearance is OK (with 25's) but I can't get the wheel out with the tyre inflated.

 

[IanSmithCSE]

Good morning,

I am rebuilding an old Harry Hall road bike and would like to fit wider tyres than are currently on the wheelset I will be using.

The inner rim width is 13mm and it had 23mm tyres. I doubt that I could get away with a 700 x 28, but should I be able to fit a 25mm tyre safely.

I have a pair Weinmann DP18s which have a 12.4mm inner width (https://www.weinmanntek.com/product/1/9/74) and are recommended for 18c-23c tyres.

With Continentual UltraSport 25c they are fine except very occasionally when turning the steering quite a lot, such as a starting off from stationary at an offset crossroads where it is a sharp left right movement to go straight ahead. In this case the front tyre feels like it is wobbling on the rim and the sidewalls are about to flatten out.

At normal speeds I have never noticed an issue on roundabouts or going around corners.

So if your favourite 25s are a bit on the wide side then they may be a bit disconcerting at slow speeds.

Bye

Ian

 

[rogerzilla]

It depends on pressure. I've run 2.1" MTB tyres on 17mm rims but, at 40psi, they're unlikely to pop off or give a hard ride.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Agree with all above: it's the frame that will limit the tyre width/height that'll fit, not the internal rim width. Bear in mind (ime) that inflated 28s will not drop through the calipers, or go back on if inflated first.

 

[raleighnut]

Agree with all above: it's the frame that will limit the tyre width/height that'll fit, not the internal rim width. Bear in mind (ime) that inflated 28s will not drop through the calipers, or go back on if inflated first.

Err, that's what the little lever is for on the caliper it releases cable tension..................just don't forget to click it back before riding off.

DAMHIKT

 

[Ajax Bay]

Err, that's what the little lever is for on the caliper it releases cable tension..................just don't forget to click it back before riding off.
DAMHIKT

Bit surprised at that contribution (first bit not the second part about pushing the lever back down) so I thought I'd quantify the basis for my advice when I said: "inflated 28s will not drop through the calipers".
Bear in mind the OP is aiming to fit internal rim width 13 mm wheels.
(All dimensions below are averaged where prudent.)
The "little lever" you helpfully point out widens the calipers by 2.4mm - note that it does not (as you put it) "release cable tension" - the strength of the calipers' spring keeps that fixed. You can get them another 1.9mm wider by using the adjustment barrel screw, provided you set it so it's normally screwed as high as possible (thread staying in barrel).
Now when riding along my 622-14 rims mean a caliper block-to-block separation of 21.8mm (which seems about right for an external rim width of about 20mm).
My GP4000S2 622-28 tyre actually measures 29.3mm @ 75psi on that 14mm rim.
Even with both the adjustments (little lever and barrel screw) I can only widen the blocks to 26.1mm.
Tyres 28+mm wide will only drop through those caliper blocks if they are not inflated. An inflated tyre can be forced through but quite often that pushes the caliper off centre. DAMHIKT
HTH

 

[Ajax Bay]

This 'can't squeeze through' issue (even with the opening slightly mechanisms discussed ^^^) is more apparent as the ratio of actual tyre width to outer rim width increases (the specific aspect of the OP). My front tyre/wheel rim ratio (not that I've ever worked it out before) is 29/20. A wider rim (eg 622-17) will be more like 24mm outside rim width so the opening mechanisms will open the calipers to an effective 28+mm and the tyre will slip through with the minimum of fuss.

 

[matticus]

I'm not sure why people would be frequently removing wheels that have fully-inflated tyres. (Tyre swap/replacement and/or puncture repair are the main reasons I take a wheel out.)

Having said that, my 2 main bikes gives bags of room for wheel-extraction, but due to luck really:
- Best bike has Campag Ergo levers with the QR button built-in. Combined with Shimano calipers I get plenty of "fit-thru-ability"
- Commute bike has cantis with rather awkward QR, BUT the levers are the old CX-types with a very quick QR button that gives huge cable slack.

So I guess I'm doubly-blessed! How many Shimano brake levers have a QR built-in?