Rim dimension and tyre dimensions

[Lookrider]

I'm after new tyres but noticed that the tyres are
700x33c and the rims are 622x19cc. ??
These tyres came with the bike and I've had no issues with them other than they are now worn down
So just curious if something amiss with the differential of dimensions and should the tyre match the rims

Also I was going to go tubeless in these rims but I believe ( maybe wrong ) that you need tubeless ready rims and tubeless tyres ( obviously )
The rims are for clincher tyres of that helps

Thanks all

 

[scragend]

622 is the ETRTO (ISO) standard size for what is known as a 700C wheel. So as bizarre as it sounds, 622 and 700 are the same thing.

The 19 refers to the internal diameter of the rim itself. 33 is the nominal width of the outside of the tyre when it is fitted (sometimes tyres can be a bit wider or narrower than their nominal width).

There's nothing amiss with that tyre being on that rim. You could get a narrower tyre if you wanted (perhaps a 28 or a 32) or maybe a wider one such as a 35 *if* your frame has clearance for it.

 

[Lookrider]

Thanks for that perfect explanation
I kinda knew about the etrto way of dimension but didn't know that 622 was same as a 700
And am I correct in that rim ( double walled ) cannot be used as tubeless system

 

[Yellow Saddle]

Tyres are always wider than rims, hence your 19mm vs 32mm example.

A double walled rim can be used for tubeless but obviosly, the spoke holes on the inner wall has to be sealed in some way.

In fact, I'm pretty sure (other than some bizarre example) that all rims used in non-crap bikes nowadays are double-walled, whether they are tubeless or not.

 

[Ian H]

Tubeless rims generally have more pronounced internal 'shoulders for the tyre beads to sit on. In my several year's experience of running both tubes and tubeless on different bikes, there's no huge difference on the road, but off-road you can run lighter tyres and worry far less about punctures. The different aspects of care and maintenance have to be learnt.

 

[Lookrider]

Thanks all but a little more history behind it
The tyres
This is on a cyclo cross bike and due to the terrain I'm getting several snake bite punctures ....so hence the reason to convert to tubeless

I have a mountain bike with high end enve carbon wheels and the rims on them have no lips on them at all ....

Thanks for all the input

 

[Jameshow]

Thanks all but a little more history behind it
The tyres
This is on a cyclo cross bike and due to the terrain I'm getting several snake bite punctures ....so hence the reason to convert to tubeless

I have a mountain bike with high end enve carbon wheels and the rims on them have no lips on them at all ....

Thanks for all the input

You need higher air pressure in the tyres.

The narrower the tyre the higher pressure 50psi would be minimum for cx tyres for an average guy. More if your heavier....

 

[Ian H]

Thanks all but a little more history behind it
The tyres
This is on a cyclo cross bike and due to the terrain I'm getting several snake bite punctures ....so hence the reason to convert to tubeless

I have a mountain bike with high end enve carbon wheels and the rims on them have no lips on them at all ....

Thanks for all the input

By 'lips' I presume you mean hooks; not the same thing as the internal shoulders.

 

[wafter]

Thanks all but a little more history behind it
The tyres
This is on a cyclo cross bike and due to the terrain I'm getting several snake bite punctures ....so hence the reason to convert to tubeless

I have a mountain bike with high end enve carbon wheels and the rims on them have no lips on them at all ....

Thanks for all the input

The "lips" you refer to are probably what are known as the hook around the inside faces of the outside of the rims, if that makes any sense.

There are two standards in this regard - "hooked" (standard / historic / most common) and "hookless" which appears to be creeping in on new rims in some lower-pressure tubeless applications.

As @ Ian H alludes to, tubeless ready ("TLR") rims will have a raised portion running around the circumference of each side of the rim bed; which is there to retain the tyre bead in position at the outside of the rim / engaged with the hook to make it easier to seat initially and discourage it from becoming detached from the rim in the event of a total depressurisation.

You can "ghetto tubeless" convert normal rims by adding rim tape to seal the spoke holes; some people also build it up in multiple layers to immitate the presence of the aforementioned raised bits to aid tyre retention; although depending on the tyre volume and how violent-a-method you have of initially seating them this might not be necessary.

Might make attending to a complete flat in the field "challenging" however, although this should be less horrendous than when the tyre was new since it should have taken a set in a form that approximately conforms to the rim after some use.

 

[presta]

I kinda knew about the etrto way of dimension but didn't know that 622 was same as a 700

622 is the diameter of the bead seat on the rim, and 700 is the nominal diameter of the tyre. It's only nominal because when you vary the tyre width it's the overall diameter of the tyre that varies with it, and not the bead seat diameter.