metal basket or canvas pannier?

[Gravity Aided]

Having been a former and recovering basket user, (mine mounted like panniers to a rack integrated on the back of the bike, one time bog standard in US), and current owner of a metal front basket, I'm going to have to vote for panniers. Shopping panniers, open at the top, may be what you want. But in some cases, I've added hardware to Preen containers (some fertilizer that kills weeds in your garden but not veggies) that I found when my posher neighbors threw them out. Narrower than kitty litter bins, more pannier shaped. They are watertight as well, because they are plastic. I do not think Preen still comes in these containers, but I'll keep an eye open. I see panniers as fitting in such a way as to make the bicycle more stable when loaded, and I see that as a very important consideration.

 

[Sandra6]

Quick update : I'm getting on grand with my panniers. Thanks @biggs682

 

[biggs682]

Quick update : I'm getting on grand with my panniers. Thanks @biggs682

you are welcome

 

[Sara_H]

I've got both! Large metal wald basket on the front, basil bloom panniers on the back.

 

[Accy cyclist]

I sometimes ride to the local supermarket at night for a few bottles of beer. I take my rucksack,i wouldn't like to open a bottle of beer after it's been bouncing around in a wicker basket!

 

[MichaelW2]

Shopping panniers need to have a single large compartment (+ext pocket if needed), and a high collar extension for overloading, ie a loaf of read. You can't pack tight like when touring.
Canvas works but so does pvc (Ortleib style). Woven nylon only works in the toughest grades, cheap ones soon wear and the waterproofing never lasts. w/p bags are much better than faffing with pannier covers.
Flap and roll-top closures work but avoid zips.
You need a modern mounting system, ie quick-release, locking hooks (Rixen&Kaul/Ortleib style). Hook and elastic is so 1970s and non-locking hooks are not good.
A good board at back and base is essential but avoid very heavy ones.
You need a rear rack that is compatible with std locking hooks, ie the need sufficient free lengths of single, round rod, not twin-welded rod. Loaded racks can obscure rear lamps so get a rack with rear lamp bracket.
Carry bunji strap and some chord for lashing large loads, eg 12-pack bogroll.

 

[MichaelW2]

Front baskets are useful but need good mounts.
I adapted a friends cheap wire one, with wire handlebar hooks. I replaced the hooks with a permanent Rixen and Kaul bolt-on kit, very strong, light, minimal (bar-space) and easy to fit

 

[Sandra6]

Shopping panniers need to have a single large compartment (+ext pocket if needed), and a high collar extension for overloading, ie a loaf of read. You can't pack tight like when touring.
Canvas works but so does pvc (Ortleib style). Woven nylon only works in the toughest grades, cheap ones soon wear and the waterproofing never lasts. w/p bags are much better than faffing with pannier covers.
Flap and roll-top closures work but avoid zips.
You need a modern mounting system, ie quick-release, locking hooks (Rixen&Kaul/Ortleib style). Hook and elastic is so 1970s and non-locking hooks are not good.
A good board at back and base is essential but avoid very heavy ones.
You need a rear rack that is compatible with std locking hooks, ie the need sufficient free lengths of single, round rod, not twin-welded rod. Loaded racks can obscure rear lamps so get a rack with rear lamp bracket.
Carry bunji strap and some chord for lashing large loads, eg 12-pack bogroll.

Ive found i don't need half those things!
The panniers are attached, no fancy quick release, but I'm happy to leave them where they are. I wouldn't get a French stick in,but they're fine for a couple of days worth of shopping.
I've made them pretty with badges.