Minimum spend for a decent commuting bike?

[downfader]

I would personally not spend less than 500 unless it was a REALLY good frame and there was going to be upgrades.

I would imagine though, for anyone just riding a mile or so a day, or a weekend ride theres nothing wrong with a cheapy to bum around on.

 

[swee'pea99]

My hybrid is now about 3.5 years old and cost me £270 (Ridgeback Cyclone) It's still running fine (although I'm wearing the chain and cassette down at the moment for replacement soon). Over the three years I've probably spent quite a lot on it and replaced a lot. New front and back tyres, new front and back wheels, new bottom bracket, new headset, 2 x new cassettes, new triple chainring and cranks, 2 x chains, a new rear mech (got damaged), various new cables, various new bearings, the odd spoke and the odd tube.

Yegods! What have you been doing to the poor wee beastie?

 

[HJ]

My hybrid is now about 3.5 years old and cost me £270 (Ridgeback Cyclone) It's still running fine (although I'm wearing the chain and cassette down at the moment for replacement soon). Over the three years I've probably spent quite a lot on it and replaced a lot. New front and back tyres, new front and back wheels, new bottom bracket, new headset, 2 x new cassettes, new triple chainring and cranks, 2 x chains, a new rear mech (got damaged), various new cables, various new bearings, the odd spoke and the odd tube.

Just my point cheap components wear out faster...

 

[Oddjob62]

Bought my first proper bike 6 months ago for £300 (Spec Globe Sport). I already wish i'd bought a bit higher up the range, and am looking to upgrade in the near future.

 

[garrilla]

It depends on the quality of the road, how hard you grind, and the quality of parts on the bike. I got a Dawes Discovery 201 about 2 years ago - it was all I could afford, and my LBS had one on sale for £200. But the amount of money I had to spend to keep it going - mudgards, 2 x wheels, chain, new casette, new seat, tyres etc. I was recently in need of another new chain, a new front derailuer and chain ring. I had been saving up some cash so instead I splashed £500 on a Dawes Audax Sport 08, which was also on sale.

I'm hoping this will last better.

 

[downfader]

It depends on the quality of the road, how hard you grind, and the quality of parts on the bike. I got a Dawes Discovery 201 about 2 years ago - it was all I could afford, and my LBS had one on sale for £200. But the amount of money I had to spend to keep it going - mudgards, 2 x wheels, chain, new casette, new seat, tyres etc. I was recently in need of another new chain, a new front derailuer and chain ring. I had been saving up some cash so instead I splashed £500 on a Dawes Audax Sport 08, which was also on sale.

I'm hoping this will last better.

You're quite right about the quality of the road issues. Here in southampton many of them are practically like riding off-road at times (esp in heavier traffic where you have less of a chance to swing around holes and cracks). Good strong wheels and a decent frame are paramount. Really you dont get that with sub 500 quid bikes.

 

[TWBNK]

I spent £300 on a bike that would get me in to work and back without me spending another penny. I have been pleasantly surprised by this bike. But I have spent loads on accessories, cheap lights, replaced by expensive lights, cheap pump and so on...

The bike is a raleigh and the only things I have replaced are brake pads due to use and a chain due to a failed attempt at a sheldon shake.

In my eyes it was £300 well spent.

 

[Chappy]

I bought a bike from Sports World for £50 once just for commuting did me pround for a year before I had to fix it. But I would say between £150 and £200 minimum.

 

[magnatom]

Just my point cheap components wear out faster...

Perhaps. But if I cleaned it occasionally (and the roads do get very dirty in Glasgow!) then I'm sure it would all last longer.

Maybe you should spend more, and get hub gears. If I ever get another commuting hack, I think it will have hub gears.

 

[col]

Going on my carrera vulcan which Iv had for about seven or eight years now, the subway would seem a good choice.

 

[summerdays]

I think that as long as it isn't a BSO is the main criterion. When you see the quality of plastic brake levers and the really soft metal used in the brake system you want to steer well clear of those.

Obviously as you head up the money scale it will get lighter etc but you are still going to wear out components (unless you are merely admiring your bike from your sofa)

You also have to weigh up where you are going to leave it - how likely it is to get nicked which might make it pointless spending too much.

 

[BADGER.BRAD]

Hello All,

£300 sounds about right to me, you may get something a little cheaper but you would have to check the component list and have a good idea of which are good and bad. I have always used a cheap recycled hack for the salty winter roads normally built over the summer out of what ever I can find then passed on the following summer. The cheap bikes seem to take allot of tinkering almost daily in order to keep them going my latest ones back wheel has just collapsed (just in time for summer!) I think over a period of two years or so the cheap bike brought new would end up costing you the same or more and cost you more time in breakdowns and tinkering!

 

[Eat MY Dust]

I bought a Marin MTB from a charity shop for £20. I've put slicks on it and panniers and it has come to a grand total of £43! I'm going to have to lock my bike up outside (Elephant & Castle) for 5 months and didn't want to risk the Cayo. If you keep your eyes peeled there are bargains to be had.

 

[grhm]

I'd say upto £300 (having spent £295 on my Giant CRS City). I struggled to find anything cheaper that wasn't from Agros,Tescos et al. Bike came with mudguards and a rack - I've replaced the chain twice in ~8months of daily commutes - and could probably got away with only one chain if I'd have cleaned the raod salt off more regularly over winter and been more frequent in my re-lubrication.

Having since seen some of the Carreara's (sp?) since I bought mine, I'd suggest it might be possible to spend less and still get an alright bike that'll do the job.

 

[PBancroft]

I spent £350 on my GT Avalanche 2.0 - it was never intended to be a commuting and has just sort of evolved into one. I've had it for about four years and been commuting on it, on and off, for about two years. To be fair to it, its stood up well, however I have some fairly major issues with it. The biggest one being weight: its heavy.

After my wedding next month and my finances are starting to get back in to shape I'm going to be looking at buying a new commuting bike. I'll probably spend about £400 or so, maybe creep up to £500. I think that the most important thing, from experience, is to look for a steed which is built for the job it is going to be doing.