Modifying my new touring bike

[martinwhprice]

So I've bought a 2005/6 Dawes Sardar for £270 - very pleased with it. http://media.photobucket.com/image/dawes sardar/Bloke_on_a_bike/Sardar.jpg (not this one but very similar)

There is the potential to make a few changes to it... and I would like your opinions on how necessary/cost-effective you think these may be. Note that the plan is to use the bike intermittently until next summer - the odd weekend, bristol to bath, that sort of thing - and then I'm planning to spend a few weeks in Scotland, and if time Northern France as well. Quite long distances, quite a lot of equipment.

These are the ones I've thought of, if you have your own suggestions please share!

- disc brakes?
- new saddle - definitely required because at the moment it's like sitting on a rock - any good value-for-money suggestions out there?
- slightly larger wheels - there's a fair gap between the current wheels and frame, enough to go a size up for sure.
- pedals - just got standard ones at the moment but considering all other types, clipless, ones with toe straps etc
- tyre type - the current tyres are pretty worn so will need replacing by next summer - not sure about smooth road tyres of more of a hybrid tyre in case i take it off-road a bit. Having said that, no suspension makes any off-roading a bit of a sore one so I'm inclined to think it's not strictly necessary.

Cheers all, appreciate it.

Martin

 

[mickle]

Forget about disc brakes - you'd need to fit (braze - and then repaint) disc mounts to the frame in addition to new hubs on top of the cost of brakes. Which don't work with drop bars anyway. It's a no go.

New saddle? Definitely. It's an essential bit of kit to get right if you intend to ride any distance. Many companies make high quality saddles which are suitable for touring, do some research and you'll probably end up on a Brooks.

Not larger wheels. Larger tyres pehaps - up to a maximum of around 38mm I would imagine. I tour on a 32mm, a good compromise of comfort and swiftness. Buy puncture resistant. Schwalbe Marathons have plenty of loyal fans.

Pedals - a semi platform clip-in pedal combined with a semi stiff touring shoe, you cant go wrong. Theres a great article here: written by Paul Johnson off of this here forum.

Tyres again.... Your bike is a road bike. It'll never be a great off road bike. Fit a set of tyres suitable for off roading and it'll be a dog on road - where it'll spend 99% of it's life. Fit actual proper road tyres and simply take it easy off road. If you want to ride off road buy a dirt bike. IMO

 

[P.H]

Forget about disc brakes - you'd need to fit (braze - and then repaint) disc mounts to the frame in addition to new hubs on top of the cost of brakes. Which don't work with drop bars anyway. It's a no go.

The Sardar in the linked photo clearly has disk mounts on the frame and fork


If it were mine I'd find a saddle I got on with and ride it. You'll find out soon enough what needs improving or replacing. Best to get your monies worth out of what you have got and not go upgrading for the sake of it.

 

[mickle]

The Sardar in the linked photo clearly has disk mounts on the frame and fork

Doh.

 

[mark]

What PH said, ride the bike and find out what you think needs improving.

Wider tires will give a smoother ride, reduce the chances of a puncture, and generally make touring and utility riding more pleasant. Changing the wheel size (diameter) will change the height of the bike, and you may or may not be able to get the brake pads to line up with the rims.

Disc brakes may or may not be compatible with your racks. Another option is a good quality set of V-brakes (direct pull), which will offer more stopping power and easier adjustability than cantis. Switching to V-brakes will require either new brake levers or a Travel Agent adapter, since the amount of cable pull required on V-brakes is different than on cantis or caliper brakes.

If you like the STI shifters/brake levers on the bike, stay with them. If not, some people like bar-end shifters, which do not combine the two functions (shifting and braking).

Clipless pedals are very nice, once you get past the initial learning stage. MTB shoes have a recessed cleat so that you can walk in them more easily, and I would assume that touring shoes would offer the same. The stiffer the sole, the more comfortable your feet will be (avoids hot spots in your feet), and the more the shoe will cost... A combination platform/clip-in pedal is nice, but heavy. It is possible (but not especially comfortable) to ride a clipless pedal without cleated shoes, but I wouldn't do it for more than a mile or two.

Once again, ride the bike and decide what you think needs improving before you spend any money. My current tourer is 10 years old and I'm still making little changes here and there, a touring bike is never a completely finished work.

 

[videoman]

I have the same bike and have carried out the following work to it, new chain and sprockets, replaced front and rear wheel bearings, gear jockey wheels, brake pads and fitted Schwalbe Marathon 26x1.5 tyres, Brookes B17 saddle and Shimano pedals, cleats one side and flat on the other. As others have said the bike already has disc mounts front and rear.



Just get out and clock a few miles up and enjoy your riding. Most of the work I carried out was due to the previous owners neglect as he said it had been recently serviced before I travelled fifty miles to view the bike.

 

[hubbike]

I'd suggest- a brooks saddle.
- avid v-brakes.
- stick with flat pedals.
- front rack looks a bit flimsy, get some tubus racks.

 

[videoman]

Forgot to mention original brakes which are Textro are not brilliant and will be my next upgrade.

 

[hubbike]

yeah, doesn't look like it has great components so you might want a few upgrades...

 

[Andrew Br]

Forget about disc brakes - you'd need to fit (braze - and then repaint) disc mounts to the frame in addition to new hubs on top of the cost of brakes. Which don't work with drop bars anyway. It's a no go.

Avid BB5 and 7s do work with road levers although you need to specify the road version since the cable pull is different to the MTB type.
I'm a great fan of discs on road bikes but you'll need to weigh up the cost of changing the wheels, the fork if it's not designed for disc and welding on a disc tab to the frame (if not already fitted).
Having the rear disc tab inside the triangle makes fitting racks and guards much easier although there are racks specifically designed for disc-braked bikes if the brake is on the seat-stay (I have a Topeak on my tourer).

 

[videoman]

Disc brakes are no problem as the frame and forks already have mountings which are factory fitted to accept disc brakes if required.

The wheels are 26" hence what appears to be a gap between the wheel and frame which initially appears a little strange but I use mine on towpaths and cycle tracks and never worry about surfaces due to the strength of the wheels and the width of the tyres.

Just enjoy riding the bike and clock a few miles up.

 

[Crankarm]

If it has mounts for disc brake calipers then I would fit disc brakes as traditional rim brakes only wear out the wheel rims, plus disc brakes offer a far superieur performance imho especially on an everyday commuting or touring bike.

 

[martinwhprice]

Cheers all,

I've started to get used to it and in all honesty I don't think I'm going to change much... for now.

saddle definitely needs replacing - that'll be done soon and I'll focus on Brooks as a few of you have recommended.
brakes probably will be changed eventually - they're not the best. There seems to be very different opinions about fitting disc brakes, so might try out a couple shops around Bristol and see what they would recommend!

as for pedals, I think once I start increasing the distances this will become a bit clearer for me.

Appreciate the help!

 

[Crankarm]

Cheers all,

I've started to get used to it and in all honesty I don't think I'm going to change much... for now.

saddle definitely needs replacing - that'll be done soon and I'll focus on Brooks as a few of you have recommended.
brakes probably will be changed eventually - they're not the best. There seems to be very different opinions about fitting disc brakes, so might try out a couple shops around Bristol and see what they would recommend!

as for pedals, I think once I start increasing the distances this will become a bit clearer for me.

Appreciate the help!

Avid BB7 disc brakes - cable operated.

 

[willem]

If the bike in the picture is indeed the bike you bought, and if it has 26 inch wheels, and if you are on a budget....
Forget about discs, as it is not obvious you can use them on this frame (it does not look like there are mounts on the front fork, and I cannot quite seen them at the rear either. Also you would probably need new hubs/wheels. Replace the brake cables, and use Koolstop salmon pads.
For what you are planning 2012 50 mm Schwalbe Big Apple Evolution line tyres may well be ideal. Fast comfy and reliable. Check the current tyre size and the clearance.
I would want to have a sprung Brooks saddle like the Champion Flyer.
Try the rear racks. If they are not stable enough, replace them by the Tubus Cargo for 26 inch wheels (unless you have very big feet). You may want to trim your luggage so you do not need front panniers.
enjoy your ride,
Willem