More DIY advice... moving a plug socket

[MontyVeda]

[QUOTE 2832008, member: 9609"]Well I think what you are doing will be absolutely fine.

Just curious how others would join two cables together with a choc block - I like to stick them in from the smae side then tape the two cables together, less likly hood of them getting pulled apart.
I will see If I can get a picture of one i done earlier...[/quote]
I know what you're saying Riever... no chance really of these being pulled apart as all the cable above the floorboards will be trunked... but good advice for my next project, if i survive this one

 

[DRHysted]

Yep what you're planing is fine.
As said above raise the joint above floor level in case of spills, and make sure it is accessible, or the cupboard is marked so someone else can find the joint.

 

[MontyVeda]

[QUOTE 2832031, member: 9609"]... probably shouldn't do it the night as i am a bit p1ssed. but then again I have just managed to climb up into the loft space and take this pic

[/quote]

me too! it is black eye friday after all.

 

[MontyVeda]

Yep what you're planing is fine.
As said above raise the joint above floor level in case of spills, and make sure it is accessible, or the cupboard is marked so someone else can find the joint.

cool... i am going to approach the task tomorrow with much more confidence. Thanks to you all.

 

[subaqua]

righty ho then

1) if it is non accessible needs to be a joint box with MF ( maintenance free) on it rated at 30A , yes 30A as it is possible in future for the circuit to be connected to a protective device rated at 30A. if it is accesible then the chock block method is just about acceptable - fixed base connectors are far better something similar to http://www.neweysonline.co.uk/newle...55-88mm/1000009020/ProductInformation.raction
2) it is work in a kitchen so should be notified to Local authority building control . as it is an alteration or addition to a circuit. if the socket cabling was being replaced along same route using same install method then would not be notifiable.
3) Part p does NOT prohibit doing own work if qualified spark . the approved document details who can and cannot self certify. an electrician qualified to install and test to BS7671 can notify LABC who in all likelihood won't send anybody to inspect as they do not have the resources. one LABC in London tried to sub contract the work out but it was costing more to administer than was raised in revenue. I won't tell you what I do in my house
4) if new colours are being used then the old cable needs to be identified with new colours at the joint pvc tape or sleeving
5) you need to fit a warning label at the "fuse box" saying there are 2 colour schemes on the fixed wiring.
6) you MUST ensure there is a good earth connection at the new socket outlet. with a multi meter on resistance range test from the earth pin on socket to another earth pin , you want a ohm reading less than 0.05 ohm
7) there was a death and 2 serious injuries which led to part P - sadly part P isn't what the ODPM wanted its what it got after watering down by sub commitees. DEll can tell you about government meddling in schemes. for the record I opposed it then and oppose it now - Wales is trying to ditch it Scotland has its own rules for complying with building regs , there has been a consultation on how to move part P forward and this should be issued 2015 if you can beleive the contractors associations.

if in doubt get a NICEIC domestic installer scheme registered electrician to do the work.

 

[MontyVeda]

Was easier than expected... I pulled up a floorboard close to where the cable goes on under floor to see if there was a junction box conveniently screwed in to the joist, but there wasn't. Instead, oodles of cable to pull through.. so no cable extension, chock block or box needed.

 

[wait4me]

righty ho then

1) if it is non accessible needs to be a joint box with MF ( maintenance free) on it rated at 30A , yes 30A as it is possible in future for the circuit to be connected to a protective device rated at 30A. if it is accesible then the chock block method is just about acceptable - fixed base connectors are far better something similar to http://www.neweysonline.co.uk/newle...55-88mm/1000009020/ProductInformation.raction
2) it is work in a kitchen so should be notified to Local authority building control . as it is an alteration or addition to a circuit. if the socket cabling was being replaced along same route using same install method then would not be notifiable.
3) Part p does NOT prohibit doing own work if qualified spark . the approved document details who can and cannot self certify. an electrician qualified to install and test to BS7671 can notify LABC who in all likelihood won't send anybody to inspect as they do not have the resources. one LABC in London tried to sub contract the work out but it was costing more to administer than was raised in revenue. I won't tell you what I do in my house
4) if new colours are being used then the old cable needs to be identified with new colours at the joint pvc tape or sleeving
5) you need to fit a warning label at the "fuse box" saying there are 2 colour schemes on the fixed wiring.
6) you MUST ensure there is a good earth connection at the new socket outlet. with a multi meter on resistance range test from the earth pin on socket to another earth pin , you want a ohm reading less than 0.05 ohm
7) there was a death and 2 serious injuries which led to part P - sadly part P isn't what the ODPM wanted its what it got after watering down by sub commitees. DEll can tell you about government meddling in schemes. for the record I opposed it then and oppose it now - Wales is trying to ditch it Scotland has its own rules for complying with building regs , there has been a consultation on how to move part P forward and this should be issued 2015 if you can beleive the contractors associations.

if in doubt get a NICEIC domestic installer scheme registered electrician to do the work.

That's the way let us not over complicate things

 

[400bhp]

Was easier than expected... I pulled up a floorboard close to where the cable goes on under floor to see if there was a junction box conveniently screwed in to the joist, but there wasn't. Instead, oodles of cable to pull through.. so no cable extension, chock block or box needed.

That's a real shame - I was looking forward to you decipering Subaqua's post.

 

[MontyVeda]

That's a real shame - I was looking forward to you deciphering Subaqua's post.

didn't understand a word of it... but, when he said "chock block method is just about acceptable", he did inspire me to look under the floorboards for something more acceptable... so @subaqua, thank you

 

[junglegusset]

Was easier than expected... I pulled up a floorboard close to where the cable goes on under floor to see if there was a junction box conveniently screwed in to the joist, but there wasn't. Instead, oodles of cable to pull through.. so no cable extension, chock block or box needed.

Your laughing then.

 

[subaqua]

[QUOTE 2832879, member: 9609"]This must be the most pointless piece of legislation ever dreamt up.[/quote]

really ? care to explain why ? there is a requirement for cables and conductors to be readily identifiable . that goes back to the early editions of the regulations. I did have a copy of the 1st edition and the basics set down there STILL apply today.