Morocco

[smith4188]

I'm planning a January to March tour of Morocco. Anyone been and care to share thoughts? And is there anywhere away from the big cities that I shouldn't miss?

 

[clid61]

Ouzoud waterfalls near Marrakech, stunning

 

[robjh]

I did a 10-day tour of south-west Morocco in November 2012, flying into and out of Agadir, which I've described here : https://www.crazyguyonabike.com/doc/?o=1&doc_id=11656&v=6x
I rode through the Anti-Atlas mountains, but the Atlas, south of Marrakesh, get a lot of tourers too. They are higher and more rugged although potentially very cold in winter.

I had a great time and would love to do another tour in Morocco sometime.

 

[MontyVeda]

a friend of mine did a cycle tour across Morocco a few years ago... apparently, it's in Africa.

 

[Brains]

I think its changed a bit since I was last there, my enduring memory is the spectacular artillery barrage duels that were fought through the night between the government forces and the Polisario in the Atlas mountains above Marrakesh.

But I doubt the port of Tangier has changed much though, you will not find a more wretched hive of scum and villainy.

 

[robjh]

I think its changed a bit since I was last there, my enduring memory is the spectacular artillery barrage duels that were fought through the night between the government forces and the Polisario in the Atlas mountains above Marrakesh.

I thought the Polisario were fighting in the Western Sahara only. That's quite a way from the Atlas - are you sure that was what you were seeing?

 

[Brains]

I thought the Polisario were fighting in the Western Sahara only. That's quite a way from the Atlas - are you sure that was what you were seeing?

It was my first trip abroad without my parents, a mate and I got to Marrakesh via a week long mostly train journey (3 days and 2 nights on a train between Paris and Madrid due to a 3 way train crash ahead of us). Marrakesh was empty of tourists due to the fighting, so the two of us had the penthouse suite of the best hotel in town, right on the main square. We paid about 70p each per night. We were the only guests.

For a couple of nights we sat on our terrace drinking beer (which cost more than the room), watching reflections of the flashes of the artillery barrage on the underside of the clouds. I believe they were some 60-80 miles south of us, we tried to work out the distance by watching the flash and then timing the arrival of the crump. The more distant bangs were the Polisario firing back, we were told they were mostly using mortars.

The push by the Polisario came to nothing, I believe it was the furthest north they ever managed to get, it was basically a big raid, rather than an attempt to push the front line forward. The Moroccans pushed back with everything they had, we saw thousands of troops and vehicles including tanks heading south.

As teenagers it gave us some quite impressive bragging rights when we got back

 

[toontra]

Cycle toured in Morocco last year. Flew into Marrakech and headed straight for the High Atlas. Spent 2 weeks doing most of the big passes (Tizi n Test, etc). It was great but can be difficult to find accommodation in the more remote areas. The roads are not too bad on the whole and there is very little traffic. You can always throw your bike on a bus if you run out of road/time, but this sometimes has comic consequences.

DON'T let anyone do you favours like showing you around - they will want payment (sometimes at an extortionate rate) and things can turn nasty, but this is mainly a problem of the cities.

EDIT: Some of the higher passes may me closed with snow in Jan - March so best to check first.

 

[slowmotion]

I think its changed a bit since I was last there, my enduring memory is the spectacular artillery barrage duels that were fought through the night between the government forces and the Polisario in the Atlas mountains above Marrakesh.

But I doubt the port of Tangier has changed much though, you will not find a more wretched hive of scum and villainy.

You could add Casablanca to the list too. An utter sh#ithole.

BTW, you must visit Fez. A quite amazing place. Well... it was forty years ago.

 

[robjh]

It was my first trip abroad without my parents, a mate and got to Marrakesh via a week long mostly train journey (3 days and 2 nights on a train between Paris and Madrid due to a 3 way train crash ahead of us). Marrakesh was empty of tourists due to the fighting, so the two of us had the penthouse suite of the best hotel in town, right on the main square. We paid about 70p each per night. We were the only guests.

For a couple of nights we sat on our terrace drinking beer (which cost more than the room), watching reflections of the flashes of the artillery barrage on the underside of the clouds. I believe they were some 60-80 miles south of us, we tried to work out the distance by watching the flash and then timing the arrival of the crump. The more distant bangs were the Polisario firing back, we were told they were mostly using mortars.

The push by the Polisario came to nothing, I believe it was the furthest north they ever managed to get, it was basically a big raid, rather than an attempt to push the front line forward. The Moroccans pushed back with everything they had, we saw thousands of troops and vehicles including tanks heading south.

As teenagers it gave us some quite impressive bragging rights when we got back

Thanks, I've learnt something there.

 

[silver darling]

i had a 10 day trip round tafraoute in the anti-atlas early december 2 years ago. it was great and i'm hoping to go back cycling that way feb 2016 . i've visited maroc a few times for mountains and hiking but this was my first bike tour and i was cycling on main roads, 'goudron' (single track tarmac) and piste (truck/minibus/4wd track of varying bumpiness and permanency) .

i would say miss the big cities out (apart from a night or 2 in maraksh/fez) and head for the mountains. there's loads to do cycle wise out there. before april it could be chilly/snowy/wet in the high atlas and further south is easier going and you won't need to carry as much kit.

looking for more info myself now. last trip i carried basic camping kit on a hired mountain bike. at the moment i'm trying to decide on hiring a mountain bike in maroc or putting my boardman comp onto easyjet, for me depends how rough the piste might get and how minimal i camp, maybe leave tent+stove at home this time.


P1090491 by Ian, on Flickr

P1090494 by Ian, on Flickr

 

[zealand]

Thanks, I've learnt something there.

 

[zealand]

Hi smith, i would like to go in February or March so would like to keep in touch if possible .
i would like to keep to the coast doing a bit of windsurfing on the way and veer of to some scenic places
all the best it looks like an interesting country

 

[DaveReading]

DON'T let anyone do you favours like showing you around - they will want payment (sometimes at an extortionate rate) and things can turn nasty, but this is mainly a problem of the cities.

Maybe be were lucky - we had a young chap, keen to practice his English, who offered to show us round the fish market in Agadir, explaining all the weird-looking fish we were looking at and introducing us to the stallholders who all seemed to be related to him.

Of course he asked for money at the end, as we had anticipated, and after some perfectly amicable haggling we agreed on what would be a reasonable payment for half-an-hour of his time. He seemed quite happy with that.

But with hindsight, maybe better to have done that in advance, to avoid misunderstandings.

 

[silver darling]

update from feb-march 2016 trip.

magic 9 day tour on a hired (10 euro per day) mountain bike, doing a loop through the anti-atlas from Tafraoute. Needed a mountain bike to handle the rough pistes and tracks. But could have done trip on boardman comp if i'd kept to the tarmac and better pistes.

Moroccans seem to really like cyclists and it would have been a much harder, and less rewarding, trip if it wasn't for local kindness and hospitality. There's also a lot of new construction and many pistes are being improved or replaced with goudron. 'morocco overland' book was a great source for off-main-road route ideas and info .

No problem leaving stove at home as brushwood for making tea was usually easily available and many villages had cafes or small shops for omelettes and basics. I took a tent and was glad I did.