My chain snapped!! : What now? ( newbie questions )

[RSV_Ecosse]

Was out for a run this afternoon and about a mile from home my gears started "slipping" for want of a better word. It started as I was climbing a hill and about half way up my chain snapped and as I was out of the saddle I had a nuts/top tube interface moment.

Had to walk the last stretch home in cleats which was "interesting" to say the least.

Anyhow, it looks like one of the links has actually sheared at one end of the sideplate. So newbie question time - what do I do now?. Is a new chain the sort of thing that is easy to fit to a road bike?. Do I need any special splitting/joining tool?. Also, how do I know what chain to get, type and length wise?. It's a Pinarello FP1 with Shimano Tiagra, double compact.

Or do I just take the easy route and drop it into my LBS and get them to do it?.

Thanks for any assistance!!

 

[HLaB]

How many miles roughly had you done out of the chain ? the chances are if the mileage is high that you'll need a new cassette too. A new chain is easy to fit, especially one with Quick Links (or whatever they are called), changing the cassette is more of a pain but it doable with the correct lockring tool.

 

[Tynan]

chain splitter to emove links to suit

for a road repair a chain splitter and one of the various power link things

 

[RSV_Ecosse]

Bike is less than a year old. Mileage I would guess at around 1000-1200 miles ( ish ).

 

[HLaB]

That's sounds a bit early for a chain snap, but you'll probably be able to get away with just a new chain.

 

[RSV_Ecosse]

Cheers. I think I'll just get my LBS to do it 'cause when it comes to mechanics and stuff I'm a lazy git.

I was quite surprised it snapped at such an early age. I read that Shimano chains aren't exactly the best quality out there anyway?. Any recommendations for a manufacturer to choose?.

 

[HLaB]

I replaced all my shimano chains with SRAM and I'm using a KMC one on the Bianchi, I like their powerlinks.

 

[Mr Pig]

Hi there,
I'm not too far away from you, just outside Airdrie. If you buy a new chain with a quick link, like a KMC one, and bring the bike round I'll fit it for you and show you how. That way you'll be able to do it yourself the next time.

 

[RSV_Ecosse]

Thanks mate, very good of you to offer!!.

I'm going to grab a new chain and some chain tools tomorrow and have a crack at it myself, will let you know how I get on.

 

[Mr Pig]

Were easy dude. It's as simple as another very simple thing.

 

[andy_wrx]

Possibly what you report as the chain slipping was when the plate had sheared on one side but was still being held by the plate on the other side, and doubtless a bit distorted and twisted, only being held on one side.
The chain would run OK until that bit got into the cassette, when it would not run properly on the cassette teeth or catch on the derailleur cage, you'd feel it slip and jump.
Obviously it wouldn't run for far like that, but now you know what it feels like so if it ever happens again you'll stop and sort it out rather than have it just snap (painfully !) on you .

 

[RSV_Ecosse]

Possibly what you report as the chain slipping was when the plate had sheared on one side but was still being held by the plate on the other side, and doubtless a bit distorted and twisted, only being held on one side.
The chain would run OK until that bit got into the cassette, when it would not run properly on the cassette teeth or catch on the derailleur cage, you'd feel it slip and jump.
Obviously it wouldn't run for far like that, but now you know what it feels like so if it ever happens again you'll stop and sort it out rather than have it just snap (painfully !) on you .

Yes, by the looks of it that is exactly what happened. And yeah, I will know the next time which will save any pain.

Folks, I was just on the Halfords website looking at chains and I'm totally baffled. There are chains listed there as 8, 9 and 10 speed. What does that mean?. I have no idea what type I need, nor what length it needs to be. Also some of the chains listed on the Halfords site mention they are "narrow" types?.

 

[PatrickPending]

Yes, by the looks of it that is exactly what happened. And yeah, I will know the next time which will save any pain.

Folks, I was just on the Halfords website looking at chains and I'm totally baffled. There are chains listed there as 8, 9 and 10 speed. What does that mean?. I have no idea what type I need, nor what length it needs to be. Also some of the chains listed on the Halfords site mention they are "narrow" types?.

you need a chain to match the number of gears on your cassette...

I.e. 8 for 8 gears on the rear 9 for 9 and so on - how many gears does your bike have?

Re chain length well keep your old chain and remove links to make your new one the same length - I usually have to remove 2 links, though on my new Bob Jackson I didn't remove any - it all depends on the no of teeth rear/front and the frame etc

I'd recommend KMC and sram chains (sram for 9 speed or lower) - they have reusable powerlinks ( I believe 10 spd sram isn't reusable?) - try chain reaction cycles for chains - they seem pretty good value

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Categories.aspx?CategoryID=148

Oh I'd also recommend a chain tool (you can use a ruler though)

http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/Models.aspx?ModelID=5784

If you let your chain 'stretch' beyond a certain point (1% on park tool) then you wear the cassette - and this means that when you replace the chain you will probably have to replace the cassette (and possibly front and derailleur jockey wheels too) - 1000 odd miles should be ok though I tend to do 3-4000Km on my chain before replacing.

Oh and you'll probably need a chain tool for removing links......

 

[RSV_Ecosse]

Right folks, need your wisdom once again!.

I bought an SRAM 951 chain and attempted to install it today. Also got a Park Tools Mini Brute chain tool and used it to remove the pin from the old Shimano chain and split it, then removed it from the bike.

Laid the old chain flat on the deck and the new one alongside it. Needed a couple of links removing from the new chain to be the same size. This is where the hassle began.

I used the Mini Brute to remove a pin from the new chain and took two links off. Then I had to put the pin back in as shown below to end up with both ends of the chain being able to take the Powerlink :-

However, where the pin was put back in in the pic above, that last link now no longer moves freely, its rock solid. I tried removing the pin and refitting but it was just the same. Used the tool to push the pin slightly further through which freed it off a little but when its freed off a little like this the pin sticks out one side too far. Push it back in to where it should be and the link tightens right up again and refuses to move freely.

Anyway, thinking it might "free off" after a bit I Fed the chain back through the derailleurs and snapped the powerlink in place. But when I spin the wheel, although the gears all change as they should there is one hell of a "tick-tick-tick" noise as the wheel spins. Almost like something is catching somewhere. Lo and behold, after a few spins of the wheel the powerlink ends up like this because of the tightness of that pin :-

I've taken it off and tried again a few times and each time the damn thing hardly moves when the pin is pushed back into where it should be with the Mini Brute tool.

I've given up. I have no idea what I am doing wrong here and would appreciate some advice. Surely it can't be that hard to fit a bloody chain??!!.

 

[Young Un]

DO NOT ride with that pin in there! I did this and it snapped again, taking my wheels cassette rear mech and frame hanger with it! You can not push an already used pin back into the chain, if you want to push a new one into it you have to use a completely new pin, do not re-use old ones as it with end up being very costly.