My Tour to Central America

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Plax

Guru
Location
Wales
I went on a CTC tour to Central America in February. It was my first tour and I really enjoyed it. Peter and Linda Cox were fantastic tour leaders and the group I was with were with were great company. I was the youngest by several years (about 19 in fact). It was a supported tour so we had a local guide with a van who carried the luggage and stopped at certain points to do a head count and top up our water bottles.

Day 1 - Travelling

London Heathrow - Miami.
Flight was delayed member of the cabin crew injured themselves whilst preparing for take-off. Had to wait for a replacement.

Day 2 - Travelling

Miami – Belize
All bags and bikes arrived safely. We were met at the airport by staff from the Black Orchid Resort where we were staying at Burrell Boom.

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Day was spent putting bikes together and getting to know one another. All but one bike survived. The gear hanger was bent. One of the staff members managed to carefully straighten the hanger using a vice.

Day 3 - Burrell Boom, Belize (20 miles)

Ride to the Community Baboon Sanctuary and back. They were actually Black Howler Monkeys but the locals called them baboons http://www.howlermonkeys.org/

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We were all woken up about 5am by them and had no idea what was making the noise. I thought it was some kind of wild pig to begin with. I’ve found a clip on youtube of the noise they make;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SV22Ua3zwN4

Day 4 – Burrell Boom – Gales Point, Belize ( 50 miles)

We stopped off at Belize Zoo on the way to Gales Point. The zoo was very interesting and the staff were very informative. I held a snake.
http://www.belizezoo.org/

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The roads were terrible, and the weather was boiling hot, one of the hottest days we had so it was really hard going. It was basically all stones, dirt and sand. The roads were used by big lorries which kicked up a load of dust when they passed. This made it hard to see and the dust often got in your eyes.

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I also had a puncture. We stopped to eat some of the oranges we had collected (the roads were so bumpy that they fell off the back of the orange trucks. We found loads and they were much nicer than shop bought oranges). There was a big bang and then a hiss of escaping air. Queue people all going “oooooooo” and inspecting their bikes. I was the unlucky one. I think a combination of the heat and perhaps too much pressure in the tyre caused the tube to fail.

Gales Point looked very poor - lots of shanty looking properties with burnt out cars and rubbish on the road leading up to the lodge we were staying at. People were all friendly and the food was nice. We only spent one night at the lodge and left first thing in the morning so never really had a chance to form a more favourable opinion of the place as it was getting dark by the time we arrived and we were all tired and hungry with sore bums and had no hot water or lights in our room as they were broken.

Day 5 – Gales Point – Hopkins Village (35 miles)

More of the same roads. Arrived at Hopkins Village around 3pm. The resort was a stone’s throw away from the beach and was lovely.

Day 6 – Hopkins Village

Rest day. Went on a boat trip to South Water Caye and did a spot of snorkelling. Successfully burnt my bum.

Day 7 – Hopkins – St Margaret’s, Hummingbird Highway (45 miles)

Stayed at a nice little place called Yamwits Lodge. Got excited at the sight of tarmac. The Hummingbird Highway was okay, traffic fairly light.

Day 8 – St Margaret’s – Cristo Rey (45 miles)

Combination of tarmac and the usual “off road”. Quite a nice cycle ride, the terrain getting a bit hillier.
In the morning we stopped off at St Herman’s cave (http://www.showcaves.com/english/bz/caves/StHermans.html) which was amazing. I couldn’t see much as my torch was damaged on the flight over, so I had to stay close to the person in front and hope I didn’t fall over.

Day 9 – Cristo Rey (33 miles)

Rest day. I decided to cycle to the Mountain Pine Ridge to see the 1,000ft falls. I couldn’t find the falls anywhere despite the signposts so I headed back. Usual bad roads and my water bottle fell off due to the vibrations so naturally I cycled over it and lost the last of my water.
Some of the group went to San Ignacio to watch the start of a local bicycle race. Some of the others actually found a local all day football tournament to watch in the village.

Day 10 – Cristo Rey

Rest Day. Went canoeing and to the Rainforest Medicine Trail. The canoeing was fun but I confess I found the Medicine Trail a bit boring (http://www.chaacreek.com/tours-activities/onsite/medicine/) . The guide wasn’t as engaging as the one at the Baboon sanctuary. Some of the group actually wandered off and stayed by the pool it was that much fun.

Day 11 – Cristo Rey – Yaxha, Guatemala (40 miles).

Guatemala actually had a fantastic tarmac road so naturally we all got excited when we saw it. It was under construction still in parts so we still had bad bits but it wasn’t too bad.

The border crossing from Belize into Guatemala was a faff, and didn’t seem to be too hot on security. I don’t know whether it was because we were a large group and our guide sorted everything out for us but no bags were checked or anything. It cost $37.50 to cross.

Guatemala was a lot cooler and far hillier. Some of the group were chased by dogs. I got snotted on by a calf that veered off towards us when some cowboys were herding cattle down the road. Small children shouted gringo at us a lot.

We stayed at an ecological lodge. It was very basic but different in a nice way. It was in the jungle and we were terrorised by small insects and kept awake by the Howler Monkeys again. They only had electric 3 hrs in the evening and only had cold water. We had to use candles at night which was a novelty. I was disappointed that they had a toilet that flushed; I expected one of the toilets that you wee in and the chuck a cup of sawdust in.
 
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Plax

Plax

Guru
Location
Wales
Day 11 – Mayan Ruins, Yaxha

We were within walking distance to the Mayan ruins. Entry was 80 quetzals for “Non residents” and 40 quetzals for residents. All the information was in Spanish with no provision for any other language so I hadn’t a clue what I was looking at half the time. It was very interesting nevertheless and you could guess stuff like the sacrificial temples. No provision for food or drink at the site. The lodge we were staying at brought us up a fantastic packed lunch (and beer!).

Day 12 – Yaxha – Tikal (48 miles)

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Very nice ride to Tikal, the roads were bliss but it was very hilly. Weather was very cool again.

Day 13 – Tikal

http://mayaruins.com/tikal.html

We went to see the Mayan ruins again. Entry for non-residents 150 quetzals and only 25 quetzals for residents!

Far more impressive than Yaxha but pretty much the same kind of thing. At Tikal they had rebuilt more of the ruins and it was a lot more “touristy”. We went quite early so got to see the Great Plaza before the loud American tourists descended. You were allowed up most of the temples. Temple IV was 64m high and had some fantastic views. Temple V was one of my favourites, they had a rickety ladder you had to climb to get to the top which was very steep – you had to go back down backwards. It was one of the scariest things I’ve climbed up. H&S over here would have a blue ar*ed fit!

Day 14 – Tikal – Melchor de Mencos (62 miles)

Cycled back to the border at Melchor de Mencos (and our last cycling day). Stayed the night at Rio mopan Lodge which was nice enough.

Day 15 – Guatemala – Caye Caulker, Belize.

We crossed back over into Belize. We managed to wedge 18 bikes in the back of a Dodge Ram. We were then driven to Belize City where we got a water taxi to the island of Caye Caulker. The bikes were taken back to the Black Orchid resort in Burrell Boom.

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Days 16 – 18, Caye Caulker

http://www.gocayecaulker.com/

Three days spent doing what we wanted on a lovely island in the lovely warm sun. We stayed at a deluxe hotel with air conditioning, a hot shower and its own pool. It was luxury compared to what we had got used to. No Howler monkeys waking us up at an unethical hour in the morning.

We spent one day snorkelling. Snorkelled with nurse sharks! The young lad that was one of the guides took quite a shine to me and showed me various different corals and fish. The next day he turned up at our hotel and wanted to take me out for a drink. I managed to avoid this but he somehow ended up having dinner with a group of us and then tried to take me dancing. I managed to politely escape in the end.

One day was spent cycling. We couldn’t help it, we were on a cycling holiday after all. The island wasn’t very big so we decided to hire bikes for a few hours and whizz about trying to see as much as we could.

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Day 19 – Back to Burrell Boom

Water taxi back to Belize City and then back to Burrell Boom where we packed our bikes up and sorted out our cases for the trip home.

Day 20 – Travelling

Off home we went. Belize Airport had an exit tax of $35.50, went through without a hitch. Had about a 5 hour wait in Miami before our flight back to Heathrow. No problems there either. Flight was scheduled for 8 hrs 20 but we arrived earlier. Confess that I enjoyed the plane food again. Flight was ok despite the small child behind me kicking me in the back on a regular basis.

Day 21 – Travelling

Arrived at Heathrow at 10:05 the following day. Found my car and finally got home at 16:15. Spent a delightful time on the M6 in gridlock traffic in desperate need of a wee.
I was glad to be home at the end of it all. First thing I did was make myself a decent cup of tea. They didn’t do tea very well over there, they seemed to use condensed milk for everything. Tea with condensed milk is just not right.
 
Location
Brussels
Plax, sound like a fantastic trip, the photos are great. How safe is Tikel these days? I had friends in that part of the world a few years ago who said it was a bit dodgy for tourists

Not sure I agree with you about the condensed milk in the tea. True fresh milk is best but condensed is a much better than UHT and it is already sweetened so no need to carry extra sugar around;)
 

Andy in Sig

Vice President in Exile
That brings back some memories. I once spent 6 months in Belize and went to Key Caulker quite a few times. It's a funny old place: parts of it are terrible and parts are brilliiant.
 
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Plax

Plax

Guru
Location
Wales
BalkanExpress said:
Plax, sound like a fantastic trip, the photos are great. How safe is Tikel these days? I had friends in that part of the world a few years ago who said it was a bit dodgy for tourists

Not sure I agree with you about the condensed milk in the tea. True fresh milk is best but condensed is a much better than UHT and it is already sweetened so no need to carry extra sugar around;)

Tikal seemed fine to me. I had heard and read stuff that said to avoid the more remote areas as there had been instances of tourists being robbed etc. I erred on the side of caution and didn't take a lot of money and never went anywhere on my own. I didn't notice anything untoward. I don't know whether that was because it is getting better (which I'd also read) or because there was an awful lot of men with guns running around. Apparently the President of Guatemala was going to be there the day after with the President of Chile to sign something. So they were obviously "reconning" the area.
 
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