Need more granny gears? Help a newbie please :-)

[DRM]

They are 170mm also. Thanks for explaining I'm not sure it's a seat height issue as I'm pretty sure I've got it just right now. Do you know if it could be related to the forward/backward position of the saddle? That's the only thing I can think that is much different in positioning to my old bike, other than that bike has longer cranks (180cm), but after a quick google, it seems that longer cranks are likely to make those issues worse not better so don't think that's relevant. My knee has also become more 'crunchy' in the last 6 monthsor so, so perhaps it's actually not specific to the bike and more down to my knee and increase in time spent cycling!

Ideal/easy way to check saddle height is to sit on your bike, with one pedal at the six o'clock position, put your heel on the pedal and your knee should be straight, with the ball of your foot on the pedal your knee should have a slight bend in it, so when you come to a stop, your toes are touching the floor, not the whole foot.

 

[Jameshow]

Id give it a good clean, new pads, new cables, new chain and 11-36 cassette.

Job done.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Id give it a good clean, new pads, new cables, new chain and 11-36 cassette.

You would find the RD would not cope. Job bodged.

 

[HobbesOnTour]

My main concern actually isn't can I make it up the hill but damaging my knees,

I am not a fan of seeking or offering medical advice on the internet.
My suggestion would be to either force the issue with your doc or visit a good physio, preferably one with cycling experience for advice.
The above advice for a bike fit might be helpful too.

Id give it a good clean, new pads, new cables, new chain and 11-36 cassette.

Job done.

I'm sure you mean well but (not for the first time) simply increasing the range of the rear cassette may cause problems with the real derailleur.

You would find the RD would not cope. Job bodged.

For someone unused to bike mechanics the simple solution can seem so attractive ... and doubly devastating when it doesn't work.

 

[Jameshow]

Well it works for the older 9-10 spd Shimano rear mechs so why would it not work for 11spd.

Has anyone tried it.

Looks the spec as a 5700 so should work...

https://www.mantel.com/uk/blog/derailleur-capacity-maximum-techcenter

 

[T4tomo]

Well it works for the older 9-10 spd Shimano rear mechs so why would it not work for 11spd.

Has anyone tried it.

Looks the spec as a 5700 so should work...

https://www.mantel.com/uk/blog/derailleur-capacity-maximum-techcenter

How do you know it hasn't got an 11-36 cassette on it already?

It probably has an 11-34 on it tbf. so 34-34 to 34-36 will make a small difference, but wont transform it significantly and certainly not enough to compensate for loading it up with touring gear, and it wont do anything about the stiff shifting and weak braking.

A good clean, lube and gear & brake service might help.

What it really needs to be touring ready is a new sub / super compact chain-set. Spa cycles do them, it will require a change of BB as they are Sq Taper and (and dont take offence at this) I believe its outside the sphere of competency of the OP even with remote advice from here.

 

[buzz22]

I would definitely look at visiting my local bike shop and having the bike serviced (after giving it a good clean).
The issue with the front derailleur not changing could be related to the grease gumming up within the mechanism and needing flushing and relubricating.

The local bike shop could advise the max cassette size you could fit to your bike to lower your gearing, this would be your easiest option.
Cost could potentially be the larger cassette, new chain and maybe new derailleur or hanger extension.

You are at pretty much the smallest front chain ring you can fit on the front with your current setup, the option from there could be a change to a triple with a smaller inner chain ring but you would then change your shifter and source a new crankset which would be more costly.

Either way I would rely on professional advice to look at the options.

 

[Ajax Bay]

Well it works for the older 9-10 spd Shimano rear mechs so why would it not work for 11spd.
Has anyone tried it.
Looks the spec as a 5700 so should work...
https://www.mantel.com/uk/blog/derailleur-capacity-maximum-techcenter

How do you know it hasn't got an 11-36 cassette on it already?
It probably has an 11-34 on it tbf. so 34-34 to 34-36 will make a small difference, but wont transform it significantly and certainly not enough to compensate for loading it up with touring gear . . .
What it really needs to be touring ready is a new sub / super compact chain-set. Spa cycles do them, it will require a change of BB as they are Sq Taper and (and don't take offence at this) I believe its outside the sphere of competency of the OP even with remote advice from here.

The RD (in OP) is (I believe) an RD-5800 (11sp). The cassette on there is either an 11-30t or an 11-32t (but the OP can confirm this, or otherwise). James - I suggest you need to say why 'shove an 11-36t cassette on' will work, rather than 'don't see why it won't' - have a read of the article you shared. An 11-36t is well out of the RD-5800's spec (5700 is 10sp btw) both in 'largest sprocket [32t]' and 'wrap capacity [37t]' (with a compact chainset - see OP). https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/105-5800/RD-5800-GS.html
Tomo: I have been reluctant to suggest going square taper because the OP has an H2 BB. It is easily the best (and seriously less expensive) way to achieve smaller rings and a shorter crank. Agree with your last paragraph.
Possible chainset to give the OP a 46t/30t (16% lower low gear): https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/grx-11-speed/FC-RX600-11.html

 

[Jameshow]

My tip is: do a long trip in UK fairly soon, "loaded up".
Your post does make you sound unprepared, knowledge-wise. As @vickster recommends, I suggest you take advantage of your nearest local bike shop.
If the brakes are "shocking" I advise you not to ride the bike one mile more. TRP Spyres are among the best cable operated disc brakes on the market. Wrt stiffness, a good dousing of WD40 into the STI bodies may help.
I assume the cassette is a 11-32 and is 11sp.
The best way to get lower gears is to replace the chainset (current one looks like a compact 50-34) with one with smaller chainrings - H2 BB.
Some people have reported that shorter cranks have reduced their knee pain. But mostly lower gears (and therefore increased cadence and lower force through the knees ceteris paribus).

I presumed it was a standard 32, therefore a 36/34 would be a good deal lower without changing too much or costing too much.

 

[Jameshow]

The RD (in OP) is (I believe) an RD-5800 (11sp). The cassette on there is either an 11-30t or an 11-32t (but the OP can confirm this, or otherwise). James - I suggest you need to say why 'shove an 11-36t cassette on' will work, rather than 'don't see why it won't' - have a read of the article you shared. An 11-36t is well out of the RD-5800's spec (5700 is 10sp btw) both in 'largest sprocket [32t]' and 'wrap capacity [37t]' (with a compact chainset - see OP). https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/105-5800/RD-5800-GS.html
Tomo: I have been reluctant to suggest going square taper because the OP has an H2 BB. It is easily the best (and seriously less expensive) way to achieve smaller rings and a shorter crank. Agree with your last paragraph.
Possible chainset to give the OP a 46t/30t (16% lower low gear): Amazon product ASIN B07RYQXR35View: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shimano-GRX-FC-RX600-chainset-11-speed/dp/B07RYQXR35

But it works!!
Specs are so generous.
I has to work with a 52 front
And therefore a 48/ 36 rear isn't going to phase it!

 

[Dogtrousers]

See also this recent thread for more chatter about 46/30 chainsets

https://www.cyclechat.net/threads/4...-drawbacks-to-take-into-consideration.297344/

 

[Ajax Bay]

But it works!!
Specs are so generous.
I has to work with a 52 front
And therefore a 48/ 36 rear isn't going to phase it!

You've tried it then James: (RD-5800, 11-36t and a 52t ring)?
Who is suggesting a 48-36t? That would represent a longer lowest gear: the OP already has a 34t chainring.
Edit: You're recommending 48-32 and 11-36 setup aiui. Wrap requirement = 41 (way above spec). 36t largest rear sprocket (well above spec). I appreciate that you can often stretch it a bit but that amount of strain needs to be actually tested before being recommended (and I don't hear others come on and say: yeah, no problem).

 

[T4tomo]

Tomo: I have been reluctant to suggest going square taper because the OP has an H2 BB. It is easily the best (and seriously less expensive) way to achieve smaller rings and a shorter crank. Agree with your last paragraph.
Possible chainset to give the OP a 46t/30t (16% lower low gear): https://bike.shimano.com/en-EU/product/component/grx-11-speed/FC-RX600-11.html

Yes, its swings and roundabouts, going to GRX gravel series as you linked gets you 30T lowest, it does push the chainline out 2.5mm from road series 105, which may or may not necessitate and GRX series front mech, (no issue with using same shifters) and uses same (24mm) BB.

Going square taper / Spa route does require a new BB, but you can get black or silver, choice of crank length and 4 different chainring combos and you can mirror existing chainline by selecting right size ST BB.:

so if I were loaded touring I'd be probably heading for a smaller option than the 46-30 that Shimano GRX gives me.

.....or I might just get @Jameshow to whack my groupset with a big hammer, install a 52T chainring as a bailout sprocket, all whilst yelling " job's a good 'un, she'll be grand".

 

[Legs]

Pack lighter and/or plan a flatter route!

 

[MichaelW2]

Brakes need to be kept clean and free of oil contamination. When you spray lube around, shield the disks with some card.
Fresh pads need to be bedded in: braking sharply on the steepest hill to generate heat.
The cable inners should have a light schmear of grease ( unless they are special ones that say not).


Regarding lower gears, the current fashion is back to large rear sprockets instead of small front chainrings. Either will work. The limit of size is set by your derailleur specs and crank bolt circle diameter ( BCD).